Can't Remove the Front Sight Post

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Hi, all! New here, but I need some help. Okay, I recently bought the M&P, and I dropped it at a local gunsmith to get the front sight post removed and install a rail system. He worked on it for two days, but couldn't get the pins out. He tried to punch them out, and they wouldn't go. He even used the hardest drill bit he had, I think he said titanium or diamond headed, something like that(forgive me, I'm not sure what kind of tools smiths use.) Still, nothing. And before you say it, yes, he IS trying to get them out the right way, following the taper of the pins. He said he's done this to about a dozen other M&Ps, but he's never had this problem.

Do any of y'all have any ideas or advice? Thanks a bunch!
 
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He just needs to make sure he is going the right direction, almost all AR's go from left to right to come out, S&W M&P's come out from the right going left. Sometimes gunsmiths will tell you that they have worked on a lot of AR's and they probably have but this seems to be the biggest hang up with the S&W's that the taper pins are backwards from everyone elses.
 
I'm glad you guys have the knowledge and experience. I learn something new everyday from you guys. Thanks again for sharing it.
 
Other hint- it takes gloves to do this......

Get everything set up to do the job, at the range. Burn a rack of ammo thru it as fast as you can without getting scolded. Immediately drive the pins out. The barrel WILL be hot, thru and thru, and it will have expanded slightly, allowing the pins to be driven out more easily.
Shoot it too much, or wait too long, and the heat transferes into the pins and they will be swelled into their holes...... same issue as before. Too tight.

Shooting vs a torch will :A. heat the barrel quickly. B. heat the barrel evenly, a torch does not do this quite as well. C. The finish of the barrel will not be compromised by direct flame heat on the outside of the barrel.
 
My pins came out (right to left) pretty easily. I like the idea of shooting to heat the barrel, never thought of that. I have used a hairdryer to heat the barrel on shotguns to remove stubborn chokes though.
 
I think it does Let me see if I can find the thread he was referring to!
 
He just needs to make sure he is going the right direction, almost all AR's go from left to right to come out, S&W M&P's come out from the right going left. Sometimes gunsmiths will tell you that they have worked on a lot of AR's and they probably have but this seems to be the biggest hang up with the S&W's that the taper pins are backwards from everyone elses.

See, that's the thing, he WAS going right to left! I watched him try for about 15 minutes.
 
Quick check time. Grab the calipers, measure each side of the pins. Which side has the smallest diameter gets the big beat down. Maybe the smaller end has been beaten enough to swell and swedge, grind the ends down some then return to hammer/punch. Still a no go, grind the sight tower off and grunt loudly in the garage when done.
 
grind the sight tower off and grunt loudly in the garage when done.

I probably would have started with this method, but I'm cheap. :D Cut the tower off, leaving the gas system in place. The rail should fit over it, and the gas block is still mounted solid with pins.
 
It's not real that hard to tell how to drive them out. The small diameter end of the pin is the side you drive out. Since it is a tapered pin one end is always larger in diameter. The smaller end usually sticks out past the surface of the site post when it is driven in. The larger end should be flush.
 
It's not real that hard to tell how to drive them out. The small diameter end of the pin is the side you drive out. Since it is a tapered pin one end is always larger in diameter. The smaller end usually sticks out past the surface of the site post when it is driven in. The larger end should be flush.
That is also why the recommend you use a cut tip punch so that it cuts off what got swollen when it was driven threw. If you start trying to drive them out without removing the excess material you can end up with a big swollen mess to try to knock out plus it will swell into the base and where it goes through the barrel.
it might be easiest in this case to cut off the ears leaving the gas system in place or go ahead and carefully drill them out.
 
When I removed the front post on my M&P15A, the only mistake I made during the process was to try to start the process of pushing out the pins with a brass punch. Needless to say I banged an indentation into that poor brass punch. I ended up moving to some steel punches that I had in my tool kit and was able to push those pins without further incident.
 
Just a thought...being an old machinist....if all else fails....drill the pins from the large end....almost through...this will relieve the pressure and they will drive out very easy. I would use carbide drills and do it in a bridgeport or very solid set up that will not move as the drills are easy to break...take your time and keep clearing the drill bit. If you break the drill......its EDM time as you can not drill carbide...best not to break it. Just my thoughts but I have done this with frozen pins before. If the pins are not hardened you could use high speed or cobalt drills.
 
When I removed my pins I used a smaller diameter punch than the pin. Doing this would keep me from mushrooming the end of the pin. It was kind of hard to keeping the punch in the center while driving them out. But with a steady hand and good eyes they came out easy. :)
 
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