1942 dated .45 ACP ball

Faulkner

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When I acquired my USGI 1911A1 recently I was also given a box of 1942 dated ammo. I have been advised the ammo is probably corrosive or mildly corrosive. Not sure what the difference between corrosive and mildly corrosive is (I would suppose it's like pregnant and kinda pregnant?).

My primary question is, I've never used corrosive ammo before, so IF I were to ever shoot this ammo what precautions should I take afterwards with the firearm?

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You are correct sir. There is corrosive and there is non-corrosive. Mildly corrosive is still corrosive.

And all GI ammo (except 30 carbine) was corrosive up to the 50s.

The corrosive part, in corrosive primers is salt, which, upon firing, covers the interior of your bore and the face of your breech-block. And if you have a gas-operated automatic it also covers the interior of the gas chamber and the piston.

Water is the cleaner of choice. Hot water cleans better, and soap makes water wetter so soapy water cleans better. Hot soapy is therefore best, but cold works. Standard cleaning solvents are useless. You need water.

I know of people that mix the vinegar-based windex three-to-one with water, and use that, and swear by it. But it's probably the water, more than the vinegar or the windex that is doing the job.
 
AFAIK all US produced 45acp ammo of WW2 date is corrosive. It's the primer that causes the problem after ignition.

Corrosive is what it is,,mildly corrosive is what the marketers have often put it out for sale as.

If the ammo is still in it's original box and full,,it's probably worth more to a collector than to shoot. Maybe one of them I'd trade you two boxes of commercial FMJ for the WW2 box.

The salt compound left behind as a result of firing will absorb water from the air. That will cause rust to form and in most cases quickly pit the metal surfaces it is on. The bore of course is the major concern, but any other surface that may have smoke/powder debris from firing is of concern.

As soon as possible after firing any corrosive ammo,,(and don't delay to tomorrow as it will be rust by then in most cases), strip it down and clean it with something that will disolve the corrosive salts and rinse them away. Then the surfaces can be dried and oiled for protection.
If just cleaned with oil over the top of the corrosive salts,,it'll rust underneath and cause the same problem as if you didn't clean it at all.

Many methods exist for the chore,,everyone seems to have a favorite. The Gov'mnt made special bore cleaner for it. Hot soapy water is often used.

Myself, I've used a brush then patches soaked with Windex. Followed by dry patches,,followed by patches w/WD-40. Then let it set overnite to check for after rust. If clear,the real oil goes into the bore. Recheck again just to be sure.
Surfaces other than the bore can be wiped off with what ever stuff you choose to use, dried just like the bore and treated the same.

I've done it this way for probably 50yrs and haven't lost a bore yet to rust from corrosive ammo and I shoot a lot of it. Still too in my M1 .
 
Old USGI bore cleaner is formulated for corrosive primers , as is good old Hoppe's No.9 and Sweets 7.62 solvent.
 
No different then shooting surplus 8mm Mauser or 7.62x54 Russian M91/30. 7.62x25 TT.

You can use water, soap and water, windex...all work. I use regular CLP and Hopes9 and never had a problem in the 5+ years ive been shooting corrosive ammo. Unless you live in Florida wetlands or the humid deep south your gun wont rust right away anyway. I sometimes go a week before cleaning and nothing happens

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From my experence of shooting WW2 30-06 in Garands and 1903's. you must clean it as soon as possible after shooting. Putting it off overnight is sadness waiting to happen. Then I clean the bore again the next day, yes, a second cleaning with the correct bore cleaner. If shooting a Garand pay special attention to the op-rod near the piston head.
 
Hot, soapy water followed by drying an oiling. I shot lots of corrosive EC45 steel cased, corrosive .45 ammo as a kid without problems.

A friend of mine in later years shot some corrosive GI .45 ammo and ignored my advice on cleaning. The next day he had a thoroughly rusted out barrel.
 
Recently bought a coffee can full of old USGI .45 ammo headstamped RA 40 at a flea market. Figure I'd dispose of this old ammo in a proper manner. Gonna run it thru my Colt and S&W 1917s.
 
As mentioned, the ammo is corrosive and since you have only a small amount, I'd keep as a souveneir and not shoot it.
Cleaning then the right way with the right stuff won't be an issue that may cause corrosion.
 
Corrosion can happen fast. I was on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, out on the cape. Friend had a SMLE; he fired it that morning and I visited him that afternoon. The rifle was in a rifle rack, coincidently just at eye level for me: I could see red rust in the bore as I passed. His comments can't be repeated on a family forum. Luckily the pitting was very slight. British primers are large and have a larger quantity of KCLO3 than other primers. And the Eastern Shore is very close to the ocean, hot and humid with plenty of salt in the air.
 
Looks like steel cases, although I didn't know that Remington used steel. Up until sometime in WW II, US Govt 45 ACP cases had their own size of primer pocket, midway between small pistol and large pistol. Don't know when they changed to large pistol: does anyone know this?
 
From my experence of shooting WW2 30-06 in Garands and 1903's. you must clean it as soon as possible after shooting. Putting it off overnight is sadness waiting to happen. Then I clean the bore again the next day, yes, a second cleaning with the correct bore cleaner. If shooting a Garand pay special attention to the op-rod near the piston head.

Makes you wonder how any GI rifles made it through WWII. Were soldiers able to clean their weapons every night during breaks in combat?

Must have been sometimes when rifles went uncleaned for days at a time, one would think.
 
Yep, and when it corroded up so badly it wouldn't work any more, they issued 'em another rifle and sent that one back for repair.
 
When I started shooting while beginning college, I friend gave me a worn but solid Springfield Armory 1911A-1. A philanthropic neighbor gave me a wood case that held two spam cans of 600 rounds of steel case ball dated 1943, made at the Evansville, Indiana ammo plant. It was corrosive. My friend wasn't concerned about that, as he and his brothers had fought WWII and Korea with mostly corrosive ammo. He said as long as I cleaned it well after shooting, I was fine. I disassembled the pistol and used a tub of very hot soapy water, dried the parts and then cleaned them with brushes and conventional solvents. The big .45 looked better when I was done shooting the stuff up than it did when I started.

Gun lore often opines that the steel case .45 ACP is hard on 1911 extractors. I know the one in my gun broke about 3/4 of the way through my ammo supply. I have no idea how many rounds this well-worn speciment had fired before I got it, and/or how much additional stress the steel cases put on it. The extractor may have well broken with brass case ammo for all I know.

I no longer shoot corrosive in my really good guns unless that is all I can get, but it is sure a lot better than no ammo at all.
 
What amazes me is how many GI 1911's are still around and still in excellent condition. I have a 1943 Colt manufactured 1911 (US Army) which I would bet had many corrosive rounds through it, yet it is still in fine condition.

My M1 Garand is also a WW ll gun and while I would not be surprised if the barrel is not original, the rifle is still quite nice. No signs of corrosive damage.

As far as your 1942 pistol ammo is concerned and weather or not it would be harmful - I would just keep it as a collectible conversation piece of history.

Chief38
 
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