.357 magnum loads for K frame

Hansli

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I have searched this topic but have failed to find anything, so I will ask. I have read a variety of opinions about the ability of K frame revolvers to hold up to full house loads and am looking for a moderate .357 load that can be used frequently without hurting the revolver. I currently use my 38/44 load of 12.5 2400 158 LSWC as a default magnum load. Any suggestions would be sincerely appreciated.
 
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Lighter jacketed bullets (125 grains and under) are a bigger problem.

Not keeping the forcing cone clean can cause issues. Remove leading and powder deposits frequently.

I don't know how many rounds "frequently" implies, but the K frame just isn't built as strongly as an L frame. So even if you minimize the impacts, it isn't going to take as many rounds as an L frame or N frame will.
 
I'm certainly not the World's expert here, but I think the problem with the forcing cone of the K-frame Magnums splitting is caused when High Velocity 110 and 125 grain Jacketed bullets get fired into a forcing cone that is leaded up a little bit.

We have here several K-frame guns that have been "civilized" by going through a re-issue process in the firey shop of "Tim the Enchanter" that leaves them as K-frame .38 Specials allowing them to be registered here in Bananaland. Obviously, they will still function with higher pressure loadings in .38 Special casings.

Look though I may, I could find no evidence that using 158 grain or 170 grain Lead bullets at high velocity in itself caused the problem. The problem seemed to always be caused by firing the higher velocity jacketed rounds into an already dirtied forcing cone.

Since the only "powerful" rounds we can get here are ones we make ourselves -- and all the bullets are cast lead -- we have not had a problem. We basically use the same .38/44 load you refer to, as a matter of fact. Our factory .38 Special load, when available, is the Aguila 158 grain lead bullet with a bullet so soft you could stuff your pillows with them, so there's not much danger of someone following up a day of Heavy Duty loads by shooting a .38 Jacketed round into the cone -- which perhaps would be enough to cause a split in itself.

Myself, I'd tell you to shoot your revolver in confidence as long as you stick to either the 158 grain lead load you mention, or a heavier 170 grain 356429 could even be substituted safely. (Our most powerful load we use is the 356429 above 13.5 grains of 2400, although we usually load one grain lighter for "regular use"). We have had no problems, and have several K's in the group.

We shoot more than you might think we would, and I'll be the first to report it if we crack a forcing cone. I hope this unqualifed opinion is of use to you.
 
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I agree that keeping the barrel clean should be THE priority. It's probably more important than what loads you choose.

But to get to your question, over the years I have used a variety of powders aimed at making a .357 load in the 1000-1100 FPS range with a cast 160gr LSWC that is both consistent and accurate. My old standby always was Unqiue, but I have had good luck with HS6, 231, and a couple of other powders. Lately, at the prodding of a friend, I have been using AA2 and have been having very good results - possibly better than anything else. I use a charge about 1/2-grain below the maximum AA lists in their online data.

My only concern is that AA2 takes up VERY little room in the .357 case. That does not seem to be any impediment to uniformity or accuracy, but it could be disastrous if the handloader is not paying attention.

I have never had any luck with #2400 for moderate .357 loads. Consistency is always the problem until the pressure reaches a level that starts to settle things down, and that usually produces velocities in excess of 1250 FPS, in my experience. That is faster than I want for a target load.
 
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Thanks for the replies. I am not limited to 2400 and only use it as an example for a 38/44 load. I have a varied supply and taste for other powders as I load for shotgun (12,20,28) and pistol (38/357,9mm, 45 acp, 45 AR. Clean barrels and forcing cones are a given.
 
I treat my 19-2 like it was a .38 SPC. I don't even own any .357 cases.

I've got other guns to make big booms; the K is too special to use heavy loads.
 
I stick with 158 grain 18 BR hardness Cast LSWC's propelled by good old Unique for most of my K-Frame .357 loads when I'm not shooting .38 Specials.

When I want to feel the fire of full house .357's, I move to one of my L or N frame S&W's or a Ruger.
 
My standard 357 load (5.5 Universal/158 LSWC) chronos at 1130 in a 4" gun.
Basically a 38/44 level loading.
Runs just fine in a 65-5 and 66-1, my only 357 Ks. Very accurate in every gun I've tried it.
As I shoot only lead, a quick clean with a Lewis Lead Remover after each session takes care of any leading.
 
I have searched this topic but have failed to find anything, so I will ask. I have read a variety of opinions about the ability of K frame revolvers to hold up to full house loads and am looking for a moderate .357 load that can be used frequently without hurting the revolver. I currently use my 38/44 load of 12.5 2400 158 LSWC as a default magnum load. Any suggestions would be sincerely appreciated.

I recommend staying with the standard bullet weight of 158 grains in magnum loads.
 
I agree with staying with the heavier bullets. I shoot 158 gr Hard Cast with Unique and Universal all the time in my K frame 357s and have never had any issues. I personally don't like the 2400 powder for my 357 loads because of the much greater recoil.
 
U got the perfect load. I bought a m19 -5- 2 1/2 new & it aint come unglued yet with 12 gr. 2400 & a 155 gr. lymam. I am old & still stick 10 in the black @ 25- 1 hand.
 
I had read somewhere that using 158 gr will prevent "flame cutting" the top strap, so that's what I've been using when I want more than a .38 Special. I've seen pictures of that and want no part of it!
 

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