4006 slide stuck/jammed

[Foxy Davis]

Okay boys Heres one I need help with. Loaned the 4006 to the Ex's son. Returned and put away then when I went to check it to carry and the slide is jammed TIGHT.Hes not anywhere around to ask the history . Dropped the hammer 10 times to make sure nothing would happen and started on it. Put the muzzle on the bench and slammed the pistol grip and got the slide to move back a bit. (see the pic) Now can see the base of the brass and measured to make sure its not HOT. Seems to be just the brass and now the slide will only move back and forth an 1/8 inch. Tried to drive the slide with a brass hammer and nothing. Put the weapon in a vise with one jaw on the beavertail and one (with a socket over the recoil guide rod) in the other and Cranked it down. Solid still. Stood it upright with the pressure on and filled the barrel with penetrating oil and let it sit for two days thinking the pressure might make the bind fail. Beat the vise with a 32 oz framing hammer to "shock" the bind and nothing.Beat a fiberglass rod to death on the brass down the barrel. Put steel rod down the barrel and bumped the brass and still nothing. Before I put this in a hydraulic press and replace parts thought I might pick some brains. The nearest competent gun smith is a 100 miles from me so thought I'd give it a whirl.Pictures show the edge of the brass from the side and bottom,depth of both tests of barrel. ANY IDEAS???? Foxy

 

[bigggbbruce]

If mine I would first try tapping barrel hood downward while pulling rearward on the slide.

I'm thinking that brass is tight in the chamber.

If that didn't work I would use same technique but with a dowel down the muzzle with a tap on the dowel at the same time. A friend might be helpful.

 

[Barrie]

I had a similar thing happen with my 45APC pistol a few years ago now. I ended up installing it in my vice and useing a wrench with the open end to go over the slide end and hit it with a hammer. It was a swollen cartridge inside that had jammed mine up. I have rubber grips for my vice which will grab the gun very tightly and stay in place when locked down very tightly. This did not take very long to make it work at all. A couple of good blows from the hammer and it popped open enough to get the caseing out. I gave it a good cleaning and lube job and its back in the lineup ever since.

 

[Foxy Davis]

Thats about the next thing static pressure hasn't done anything. Gonna' take impact i think?? This seems to be an empty brass. Thought about a socket over the barrel and a good straight hit. Foxy

 

[6actual]

Perhaps a squib round followed by a good round, causing a swollen barrel? If so, the barrel would need to be carefully cut out from the inside by a PRO and a replacement barrel procured. You can take a fine pick and run it on the inside of the barrel and "feel" to find if the barrel is swollen

 

[BMCM]

I'm kinda thinking junior was shooting some questionable ammo in there.

First, try detail stripping the frame as far as you can. I would want to rule out the possibility of a broken ejector binding up the slide before taking more severe steps. This means pulling the grip then the sideplate. Removing the hammer assembly then see if the ejector is loose in there and perhaps free things up.

Still stuck? Time for plan B
Clamp the bare frame securely in a bench vise using either padded jaws or some hardwood blocks. Use a long drift punch down the barrel and beat the snot out of it. I wouldn't stick threaded rod down the barrel for fear of damaging the rifling. If you cant find a suitable punch that will fit and is long enough, look for a piece of drill rod or drill blank that'll fit the bore.

Cheers
Bill

 

[Foxy Davis]

I used the threaded rod to see if the round was live or not. looking the best I could down the barrel I couldn't tell if i was seeing a hollow point or a brass case. Using the small screwdriver i had a measurement perhaps in the cavity and the threaded rod wouldn't fit in a hollowpoint cavity and I had the same measurement. Going to the machine shop in the am. hope I fix it since they do have a 250 ton hydraulic press which should be able to press something!!

 

[Niteshooter24]

Had an M&P9 do that, ended up being a bulged barrel, was tight in the slide and wouldn't budge. Squib followed by another round pushed both out. agree with the above,, find a gunsmith to cut the barrel out from the inside. in just the right light you might be able to see the bulge inside the barrel now that you have determined that its DEFINATELY a spent round. ( probably will catch he!! for suggesting he look down the barrel)

 

[6actual]

Going to the machine shop in the am. hope I fix it since they do have a 250 ton hydraulic press which should be able to press something!!

If its a swollen barrel, this plan ^^ will likely de-mil your 4006

 

[Foxy Davis]

Thought of the barrel bulge. Looked in the barrel and really didn't see anything obvious,rifling looks right. The slide wont go forward at this time either so maybe the vise pressure locked it there. But the slide moves freely back and forth 1/8 of an inch so it seems if the barrel had it hung it wouldn't move at all. When I started it wouldn't move at all,then when I got the slide back a bit then it would "slide " back and forth the 1/8th inch. Foxy

 

[BMCM]

Hydraulic press is not a good idea. Secure the frame and drive against the breechface with a long drift to knock it open. This after ruling out a broken ejector tying up the gun. The breech should unlock & open with this tactic even with a slight barrel bulge although a bulged barrel may push the barrel bushing out the front. Messing with a 250 ton press will likely destroy the gun. I can't even think of a way to fixture a pistol vertically on a arbor press that wont result in wreckage. Perhaps you should consider seeking help from a local pistolsmith?

Cheers
Bill

 

[rwsmith]

Short chambers in semis.

I bought some compact pistols and loaded them as I would my 5943 full size. The bullets got stuck in the leade and I had to hit the front of the slide with enough force to pull the bullet (wow) and then knock the bullet out of the barrel with a dowel. Doesn't sound like your case but weird things happen. Oh, I found that hammering the square wood handle of a wire brush was perfect for knocking the front of the slide to open it.

Again, this doesn't apply to your but I bought a Kel tec that the recoil spring jumped out of its retaining notch and sprung down the pistol, locking it up good. I had dealt with some tough jams but this wouldn't budge. The factory told me to send it back because they would have to take it apart.

 

[JohnHL]

If mine I would first try tapping barrel hood downward while pulling rearward on the slide.

I'm thinking that brass is tight in the chamber.

If that didn't work I would use same technique but with a dowel down the muzzle with a tap on the dowel at the same time. A friend might be helpful.

This is the way I would go.

John

 

[Foxy Davis]

I was just mentioning the press as " Smith don't mess with me as I might not have a shootable 40 but I'll know what happened." Kinda' like showing the bad guy a 45 when he only has a BB pistol.I'll get stung but you'll lose.What I'm confused with is the slide moves right now just as easy as it should but only 1/8 inch or so. Thinking it might be something like a popped primer as another member suggested gumming up the works.Had just about the same thing last year with my pre 64 264 win mag. Loaded it in the dark,bolt was stiff but closed. Shot a hog and couldn't get the brass out. Tapping,beating same scenario. Had to ship it to the gunsmith,he couldn't get it loose and had to ream the chamber to clear it. Some of the other rounds in the box had some white corrosion around the bullet or primer and a few had a spot or two on the case. Acted like the best gorilla glue around I guess. These were Remingtons, the Winchesters, stored the same, were bright and shiny. Shoots good now Foxy

 

[bigggbbruce]

I don't know the exact measurements on S&W but a 1911 slide moves .090" rearward then drops out of battery.

Your Smith is very similar. The slide moves straight back then tips down out of battery.

Hitting the slide rearward is putting all the force on the extractor hook.

Keep it up and you'll break it off.

Go to post #2 and try this.

 

[Foxy Davis]

That's what we are going to try first. But if you look at the pics the slide is 5/8 or so back already. tried to drive it back forward into battery but it wont move at all. got it this far back with the clear at the range technique of muzzle on the bench and pound the grip. Case moved back to clear the chamber some. so I'm thinking its not bound by the case since its moved some already.

 

[bigggbbruce]

And if it is the case causing the problem it is tight on the extractor and wedged against the breech face like a doorstop. The barrel needs to drop as it pulls to the rear.

 

[Foxy Davis]

Well just got back from the machine shop. They make AR's uppers and lowers. My friend is the head guy and all workers are veterans. No luck,tried everything ,Last attempt was in the vice with metal drift pin and dead blow hammer. Tried to push down on the barrel hood,nothing,Hammer assembly is apart,extractor seems fine, so Monday it ships to a retired US Army armorer. 25 plus years experience for the Army, Will keep ya'll in the loop. General conscientious is a ruptured case We'll see- to be continued Foxy

 

[Fastbolt]

A couple thoughts and questions would occur to me, before I'd start banging away on the gun with increasingly bigger hammers.

Do we have any idea what ammunition was being used the last time it was fired? Was the gun put away and returned because it stopped working?

Is the rear of the firing pin sticking out normally? Even if so, that doesn't mean the front may not be broken off and stuck inside the primer pocket, which is preventing the brass, and barrel, from dropping.

I think I'd probably try to remove the manual safety assembly, and hopefully the firing pin (to check for damage). In order to do that, I'd start by removing the rear sight, to get the plungers out of the way (especially the steel FP safety plunger, so the FP could hopefully be removed).

Does the front inch or so of the barrel's bore appear as though the barrel may be "ringed" at that spot, from an obstructed bore event? Might offer another explanation why the barrel doesn't want to budge any further through the slide's bushing. If it is ringed, trying to push that ringed spot through the slide's pressed barrel bushing risks damaging the slide's bushing.

Does any magazine returned with the gun show any signs of damage, or heavy carbon fouling on the magazine or follower? Any cracks in the sides of the grip? The front edges of the grip, in the middle where the "hooks" catch the front of the frame windows, not bulged (before or after the grip was removed from the frame)?

Your last pic is out of focus. Can you see up inside the magazine well to see the bottom of the barrel's feedramp? Does it look like any brass debris is protruding (case head failure/blowout)?

You keep banging around on the gun, sooner or later you might bend or crack something in the frame and/or slide.

 

[Foxy Davis]

The barrel and all parts seems fine. The pic from the magazine well the brass seems to be normal. Everything looks correct,but something isn't. I'm sure the weapon was returned because of this and shows that he tried to clear it from marks on the front of the slide. Have no idea what ammo was used. If the armorer who like your self ,is retired after 25 years service, cant figure it out I'm thinking maybe drilling the case with a 1/16th drill bit to try and get the rim to rip off and maybe then the slide would move to field strip it. and like you said beating isn't working. Foxy