41 slide frozen shut, doesn't budge
- Thread starter wetdog1911
- Start date
Sebring Pop
Member
kroil and allow time for it to work. It took 2 years to get stuck. May take a while to unstuck.
george_lehr
Member
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Oh goody. Now it turns into a "best penetrating Oil" The Kroil guys will be creeping out.
Any of them work, no need to post all the "reviews and tests"
Much like the "best gun cleaning magic juice.
Look up Unicorn... (nick name for Richard) Gun Solvent if you want a laugh.
Fake science, BS and your favorite gun lube
The M41 trigger guard is very stiff and request some force to pull down. Put a glove on an PULL it.
Any of them work, no need to post all the "reviews and tests"
Much like the "best gun cleaning magic juice.
Look up Unicorn... (nick name for Richard) Gun Solvent if you want a laugh.
Fake science, BS and your favorite gun lube
The M41 trigger guard is very stiff and request some force to pull down. Put a glove on an PULL it.
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You have to use 50-50 ATF/Acetone. The acetone “activates” the process (I don’t know the proper term). Put it in a sealed container and agitate daily. You will be amazed by the results.
Rusty, etched 3" Baby Chiefs -- hammer down - range day at post #55
See post 29.
Doc1500
Member
That's a pretty good representation of what the 50/50 mixture can do. I'm convinced.
OP
wetdog1911
Member
Oh goody. Now it turns into a "best penetrating Oil" The Kroil guys will be creeping out.
Any of them work, no need to post all the "reviews and tests"
Much like the "best gun cleaning magic juice.
Look up Unicorn... (nick name for Richard) Gun Solvent if you want a laugh.
Fake science, BS and your favorite gun lube
The M41 trigger guard is very stiff and request some force to pull down. Put a glove on an PULL it.
It's back in the mineral spirits right now, but I did snag a qt each of acetone and ATF (non synthetic), yesterday. Going to the store shortly to find a freezer storage container large enough for the 41. Use those a good bit, but much smaller sizes. Heavy duty and they seal well.
Love my Kroil, but use that in needle applicators and the small can lasts me years.
The Kroil or Blaster in gallon amounts would both be north of $30 each with shipping. The qts of acetone & ATF were just over $10 for both.
Did the glove bit after a 2+ week soak in the spirits till it was painful even with the (heavy), glove. Will try again after the ATF/Acetone soak. Have a new nylon hammer, but I really want to avoid using it, even though it's a smallish one.
Yeah, some of those *tests* are really funny, especially when they totally contradict decades of actual experience. I'll trust my own experience, thank you very much!
Rob
Doc1500
Member
It would be great if you could post some before and after pictures.
What "lube" was used prior to storage.?? All the soaking and use of indiscriminate chemicals, solvents??
Was it lubed with epoxy or what??
Just put whatever gun solvent on the hinge and let it soak. What magic formula does it take to dissolve grease or oil??
Was it lubed with epoxy or what??
Just put whatever gun solvent on the hinge and let it soak. What magic formula does it take to dissolve grease or oil??
OP
wetdog1911
Member
Very little lube actually, the 41s don't seem to require much. Mainly a super small amount of Lubriplate (GI surplus in those tiny containers that went in the M14 buttstocks), on the slide rails and everything else was wiped down with a cotton rag dampened with Eezox. Very occasionally, during extended sessions, a drop or 2 of FP-10 if the rails got dry.
Only ammo used in the last decade or so has been the Wolf MT, that was made by SK, not the new Eley stuff. They're generous with the bullet lube, but overall pretty clean. I learned long, long ago about over lubing shooting 1911s and getting grease & oil flung in my face.
She also corrected me with the time. It was a cookout at a friends that has his own range and was closer to 5 years than the 'couple' I believed it to be. It sat, cased, on the top shelf of the safe in a un heated garage.
Not a hint of rust when the grips came off and the magazine popped right out when the release was pushed.
Anyway, I found a storage container with a tight fitting lid at the store yesterday, actually a 2-pack, and will mix everything up and get it going after the home health nurse visits. Not the usual nurse who is an avid shooter and knife collector who really impressed me with her Kershaw on the first visit. Love these SC country girls! I'll see her next week and be very low key with the one today.
99% sure it's just burnt powder/lube along with the inherent *stickiness* of the trigger guard locking mechanism that's the holdup here.
Rob
Only ammo used in the last decade or so has been the Wolf MT, that was made by SK, not the new Eley stuff. They're generous with the bullet lube, but overall pretty clean. I learned long, long ago about over lubing shooting 1911s and getting grease & oil flung in my face.
She also corrected me with the time. It was a cookout at a friends that has his own range and was closer to 5 years than the 'couple' I believed it to be. It sat, cased, on the top shelf of the safe in a un heated garage.
Not a hint of rust when the grips came off and the magazine popped right out when the release was pushed.
Anyway, I found a storage container with a tight fitting lid at the store yesterday, actually a 2-pack, and will mix everything up and get it going after the home health nurse visits. Not the usual nurse who is an avid shooter and knife collector who really impressed me with her Kershaw on the first visit. Love these SC country girls! I'll see her next week and be very low key with the one today.
99% sure it's just burnt powder/lube along with the inherent *stickiness* of the trigger guard locking mechanism that's the holdup here.
Rob
I fell in love with every SC women I talked to on the phone. Used to have to call from my job to do verification's. Heck that accent just killed me, could talk for an hour! Could have been some real unattractive gal for all I knew.!
Heat the gun with a hair dryer and beat the snot out if it!
Heat the gun with a hair dryer and beat the snot out if it!
Oh goody. Now it turns into a "best penetrating Oil" The Kroil guys will be creeping out.
Any of them work, no need to post all the "reviews and tests"
Much like the "best gun cleaning magic juice.
Look up Unicorn... (nick name for Richard) Gun Solvent if you want a laugh.
Fake science, BS and your favorite gun lube
The M41 trigger guard is very stiff and request some force to pull down. Put a glove on an PULL it.
This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Doc1500
Member
Maybe rust !!What "lube" was used prior to storage.?? All the soaking and use of indiscriminate chemicals, solvents??
Was it lubed with epoxy or what??
Just put whatever gun solvent on the hinge and let it soak. What magic formula does it take to dissolve grease or oil??
I would love to see some pictures before he does anything, and after pictures
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OP
wetdog1911
Member
Well, the thing is, I'm still working on internet picture posting 101 and the second is, it's all internal where it's sticking.
There was no rust or corrosion when I got the grips off or, when I (finally), got the slide unstuck.
Going to pull it out of the mineral spirits and, after draining, try the hair dryer heat routine one more time before the 50/50 acetone/ATF soak.
"Beat the snot out of it" !? LOL Sir!, one does not beat the snot out of something so elegant as a M41. Some 'love taps' perhaps to change her sticky ways, but no all out whanging.
If it comes to that, there is a retired Marine neighbor who is an expert at whanging.
Rob
OP
wetdog1911
Member
YAAAYY !!
The 50/50 soak of Acetone/ATF, plus the hair dryer, plus some *taps* from a nylon hammer FINALLY got it open!
The good news, not a speck of rust anywhere. The bad news, much to my embarressment, way too much lube & gunk from me being way more liberal with the oil than I thought I was being. A hard lesson, but not one that will be forgotten any time soon.
Still to do: Next comes a soak in brake cleaner to be followed by Rem Oil. This all came from reading here AFA both. Gunscrubber was considered, but way expensive compared to brake, or, carb cleaner. The Rem Oil, or RIG #2 were both highly touted, but the RIG#2 is a backorder both at Brownells and Midway, so a 6oz pump bottle of the Rem Oil is enroute right now. I'll get some RIG when it becomes available again.
Will also be on the lookout for some metal storage cans for this stuff if needed for other cleaning projects. I've inherited more than a few old guns in the last several years and haven't really gotten in to any of them yet. Nothing pristine or very interesting except one or 2.
The M41 is field stripped and back in the 50/50 soak till the Rem Oil arrives, then, I'll go from there.
Rob
The 50/50 soak of Acetone/ATF, plus the hair dryer, plus some *taps* from a nylon hammer FINALLY got it open!
The good news, not a speck of rust anywhere. The bad news, much to my embarressment, way too much lube & gunk from me being way more liberal with the oil than I thought I was being. A hard lesson, but not one that will be forgotten any time soon.
Still to do: Next comes a soak in brake cleaner to be followed by Rem Oil. This all came from reading here AFA both. Gunscrubber was considered, but way expensive compared to brake, or, carb cleaner. The Rem Oil, or RIG #2 were both highly touted, but the RIG#2 is a backorder both at Brownells and Midway, so a 6oz pump bottle of the Rem Oil is enroute right now. I'll get some RIG when it becomes available again.
Will also be on the lookout for some metal storage cans for this stuff if needed for other cleaning projects. I've inherited more than a few old guns in the last several years and haven't really gotten in to any of them yet. Nothing pristine or very interesting except one or 2.
The M41 is field stripped and back in the 50/50 soak till the Rem Oil arrives, then, I'll go from there.
Rob
Here's a link to a "less toxic" penetrating oil that works about as
good as the 50/50 and is much cheaper.
How to Make Penetrating Oil | Engineering For Change
Also if you pull up the link for REM OIL's Safety Data Sheet you
see it'is mostly Mineral Spirits. I was told years ago the second
ingredient " ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATE " is actually
mineral oil.
https://www.remington.com/sites/default/files/MSDS-RemOil_Liquid.pdf
This makes sense because Ballistol's Data Sheet lists white
mineral oil as its lubricant. See section 3 composition. Ballistol
has been around since 1905 and is kinda like the granddaddy
of all modern gun lubes.
https://ballistol.com/wp-content/up...allistol-Multi-Purpose-Aerosol-Revision-9.pdf
Lastly, Amazon peddles food grade mineral oil for 18 bucks or
so a gallon. That's about as safe as you can get if you don't
need penetrating oil for your gun. it's a lot of lube that
also has other uses.
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Mineral-Cutting-Butcher-Stainless-Approved/dp/B00VNI1JI0"]Amazon.com: Food Grade Mineral Oil, 1 Gallon (128oz), for Cutting Boards and Butcher Blocks, Stainless Steel and More, NSF Approved: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]
good as the 50/50 and is much cheaper.
How to Make Penetrating Oil | Engineering For Change
Also if you pull up the link for REM OIL's Safety Data Sheet you
see it'is mostly Mineral Spirits. I was told years ago the second
ingredient " ALIPHATIC PETROLEUM DISTILLATE " is actually
mineral oil.
https://www.remington.com/sites/default/files/MSDS-RemOil_Liquid.pdf
This makes sense because Ballistol's Data Sheet lists white
mineral oil as its lubricant. See section 3 composition. Ballistol
has been around since 1905 and is kinda like the granddaddy
of all modern gun lubes.
https://ballistol.com/wp-content/up...allistol-Multi-Purpose-Aerosol-Revision-9.pdf
Lastly, Amazon peddles food grade mineral oil for 18 bucks or
so a gallon. That's about as safe as you can get if you don't
need penetrating oil for your gun. it's a lot of lube that
also has other uses.
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Mineral-Cutting-Butcher-Stainless-Approved/dp/B00VNI1JI0"]Amazon.com: Food Grade Mineral Oil, 1 Gallon (128oz), for Cutting Boards and Butcher Blocks, Stainless Steel and More, NSF Approved: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]
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OP
wetdog1911
Member
Cool ! I have a qt of Ballistol lurking in the garage and a small bottle of food grade mineral oil for both cutting boards and carbon kitchen knives.
Do you ever watch Hickok45 on You Tube? He has a really good revolver cleaning vid and all I can say is, he loves his Ballistol and uses it with abandon. I do need to get a pump sprayer since it's just so so to use right out of the qt can and that's why it has mostly sat.
I thought with the Rem Oil the carrier evaporated and left a dry film and was why it is so good for internals. That might be the RIG #2? Kinda bummed it is out of stock at the moment, but I did backorder it. Want to keep the M41 dry from now on, but still protected. When the Rem Oil gets here I'll see exactly just what I have, since they seem to have several blends.
Have mainly used Eezox for corrosion protection for the last 20 or so years, but mainly on a slightly dampened cloth that's kept in a ziplock to wipe down the outsides.
Not so sure if very many different products are needed, but for sure the way I've been using them needs to change.
Rob
Do you ever watch Hickok45 on You Tube? He has a really good revolver cleaning vid and all I can say is, he loves his Ballistol and uses it with abandon. I do need to get a pump sprayer since it's just so so to use right out of the qt can and that's why it has mostly sat.
I thought with the Rem Oil the carrier evaporated and left a dry film and was why it is so good for internals. That might be the RIG #2? Kinda bummed it is out of stock at the moment, but I did backorder it. Want to keep the M41 dry from now on, but still protected. When the Rem Oil gets here I'll see exactly just what I have, since they seem to have several blends.
Have mainly used Eezox for corrosion protection for the last 20 or so years, but mainly on a slightly dampened cloth that's kept in a ziplock to wipe down the outsides.
Not so sure if very many different products are needed, but for sure the way I've been using them needs to change.
Rob
Rem Oil's carrier is the mineral spirits. It also helps the oil part of
the formula creep in the the nooks and crannies which helps. You
ought to look at Ed's Red. Here's' a link:
https://www.majorsgunclub.org/edsred.htm
There are basically 2 variations to it.
1 has just the lubricants,and 1 has them and the solvents.
Also go to Friar Frogs place and read up on his list of gun
cleaners and lubes. Very informative and down to earth:
Homemade Firearm Related Products
And one other thing that might help you where you're at. You
can get a bottle of Dillon Precision's case lube. It's a mixture of
Lanolin and alcohol. If you lube cases the lanolin acts as the
lubricant and the alcohol acts as the carrier.
Ok what might be helpful to you if you have high humidity is to
spray the steel surfaces with it. The alcohol will evaporate and
the lanolin will act as a sealant to keep the moist air off your
goodies. I've been using it for years in reloading and gun
preservation. The lanolin also shines wood.
Dillon Case Lube (8 oz. Bottle) (13733): Reloading: Case Preparation Equipment
hope this is helpful
the formula creep in the the nooks and crannies which helps. You
ought to look at Ed's Red. Here's' a link:
https://www.majorsgunclub.org/edsred.htm
There are basically 2 variations to it.
1 has just the lubricants,and 1 has them and the solvents.
Also go to Friar Frogs place and read up on his list of gun
cleaners and lubes. Very informative and down to earth:
Homemade Firearm Related Products
And one other thing that might help you where you're at. You
can get a bottle of Dillon Precision's case lube. It's a mixture of
Lanolin and alcohol. If you lube cases the lanolin acts as the
lubricant and the alcohol acts as the carrier.
Ok what might be helpful to you if you have high humidity is to
spray the steel surfaces with it. The alcohol will evaporate and
the lanolin will act as a sealant to keep the moist air off your
goodies. I've been using it for years in reloading and gun
preservation. The lanolin also shines wood.
Dillon Case Lube (8 oz. Bottle) (13733): Reloading: Case Preparation Equipment
hope this is helpful
Ed Fowler
Member
The only soak fluid I have ever used is rubbing alcohol. Use a plastic tub, and cover it. Blow it out with compressed air and then oil with break free and blow it out again. Has always worked for me.
OP
wetdog1911
Member
DOH !!
Ordered the wrong Rem Oil first time around. Went back to Brownells and found what I needed after reading all the descriptions. Only one mentioned the teflon & dry film both, so I ordered that. Both a 4oz aerosol and a 1oz drip bottle. Also put the RIG #2 on the order rather than just the 'notify me'. They'll charge me when it ships.
I think the other is Rem Oil Pro3 or something similar and the stuff I needed was just labeled Rem Oil and nothing else.
The LGS has some stuff, but it is 2x Brownells cost even with shipping. They do get my FFL transfer business though.
Rob
Ordered the wrong Rem Oil first time around. Went back to Brownells and found what I needed after reading all the descriptions. Only one mentioned the teflon & dry film both, so I ordered that. Both a 4oz aerosol and a 1oz drip bottle. Also put the RIG #2 on the order rather than just the 'notify me'. They'll charge me when it ships.
I think the other is Rem Oil Pro3 or something similar and the stuff I needed was just labeled Rem Oil and nothing else.
The LGS has some stuff, but it is 2x Brownells cost even with shipping. They do get my FFL transfer business though.
Rob
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