629 Mountain Gun Cylinder will not open after firing

[.357Magnus]

Hello,
I'm new here and really like this site. This is my first post with a question. I have an @ 6 year old .44 Magnum 629 Mountain Gun. I love this gun. It is fun to shoot and the trigger is great. After firing one cylinder of WWB ammo the other day I can not get the cylinder release to move forward and unlock the cylinder to swing open. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this or a suggestion on how to get it open. I have made absolutely sure that all of the rounds have been fired and the gun cocks and fires as normal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks,
Magnus

 

[stevieboy]

It's possible that your ejector rod may have backed out just enough to jam the cylinder in the closed position. It's a relatively common problem with Smith revolvers. It's happened to me and I'm sure that a lot of other forum members have had the same experience. The rod tightens by rotating it counterclockwise. See if you can rotate it a turn or two with your fingers while the cylinder remains closed. If that works the cylinder should then open. You then need to tighten the rod. Don't overtighten it, just screw it in firmly with your fingers. Check it often.

 

[.357Magnus]

Hi Steve,
Thank you very much for your quick reply and advice. Is there any trick to tightening the ejector rod or a tool to use while its inside the barrel shroud?
Thanks,
Magnus

 

[.357Magnus]

Hi Steve and all others,
I really tried to tighten the ejector rod, but it does not seem loose at all. Also, I am not able to really get any grip/purchase on it as it is encased in the shroud. Not sure if it is loose, but it does not seem to be. Do you have any other thoughts on ways to get the cylinder to open. If I get it open, then may be I can see if it's loose and tighten it.
Thanks,
Magnus

 

[Snowbandit]

On my S&W's used for defense I often place a very small amount of BLUE Locktite on the threads. It doesn't take much and the threads don't have to be completely covered to hold. Some people use nail polish to equally good effect. Tighten firmly keeping in mind the small threads.

To disassemble first place some fired cases in the cylinder. This takes the strain off the star wheel and its locating pin. Pad the jaws of a pair of pliers with a piece of leather to hold the ejector rod while you turn the cylinder by hand. Remember, modern S&W's are left hand thread.

 

[Snowbandit]

Hi Steve and all others,
I really tried to tighten the ejector rod, but it does not seem loose at all. Also, I am not able to really get any grip/purchase on it as it is encased in the shroud. Not sure if it is loose, but it does not seem to be. Do you have any other thoughts on ways to get the cylinder to open. If I get it open, then may be I can see if it's loose and tighten it.
Thanks,
Magnus

In front of the ejector rod, below the barrel, is a latch that drops into a hole in the front of the rod. It's just like a miniature door latch. If you can't tighten the rod by hand you need to push this front latch forward. The usual cylinder release needs to be held forward at the same time to release the cylinder from the back. Be careful using sharp tools here as, one slip and you will have a permanent reminder of your error. It can be done with a small screw driver however. Unless you have done it before an extra hand is helpful.

 

[.357Magnus]

Hi SnowBandit,
Thank you very much for the advice. I will try this tonight and let you know how it goes. I appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Magnus

 

[batmann]

One quick thought after you get the cylinder open is to check under the ejector star for loose grains of powder. I have had that happen and it will bind the cylinder.

 

[eyegots2no]

Often you can take say a match like the bige red ones made of WOOD, shave the non match end with a box cutter to give it sort of a bevel, and insert it between the spring loaded bolt and the forward end if the ejector rod, and then you can get the cylinder to swing out.

It may happen again and again and is less likely so if you go ahead and dissmantle the ejector rod, sleeve, cylinder, etc. Clean all of it real good, then oil back up as you put is back together, (note in you mind or right down the direction you use to tighten things back up so you remember proper way to loosen back up later etc. etc.----old guns went opposite direction), then tighten up the assembly real good. Works best if you have some shells (dummies best) in the cylinders to help prevent slip of extractor and goofing it up.

Often you can do all by hand and it should work find. I have seen seasoned gunsmiths with the RIGHT tools place ejector rod forward of the cylinder (not included the knurls) in padded vice parallel to the jaws (again, you have to have the right stuff or don't do it yourself), and then tighten the cylinder/rod. If you cannot get any of this to do right, let a pro do it.

 

[Snowbandit]

Well??????? Did you get it open?

If you need help PM me with your phone number and I'll walk you through it. My long distance is free here so it's no big deal.

 

[sabrecross03]

Could be a round that was too long or short.

 

[.357Magnus]

Well??????? Did you get it open?

If you need help PM me with your phone number and I'll walk you through it. My long distance is free here so it's no big deal.

Hi Snowbandit,
Thank you so much for your offer to help. It was one of those days at work today and I just got home. I will try to get it open tomorrow and hopefully do so successfully. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again to you and all who replied to help me out. I really appreciate it.
Magnus

 

[Fred_P]

Magnus:

I've also been through the loose ejector rod like many others. I've also had loose thumb piece screws.

The first time I had a loose rod, I disassembled the gun and released the cylinder from the rear. I thought it was carbon/debris in the latch mechanism, cleaned it all and after a repeat of the problem, discovered the real culprit.

However, I noticed in your original description that you said you couldn't "get the cylinder release to move forward and unlock the cylinder to swing open". If your cylinder release won't move forward, then you have a jammed mechanism and probably need to remove the side plate to examine the guts.

If you decide to remove the side plate, remember that the best technique is to tap the gun on left side with a soft mallet to dislodge the plate, avoiding marring the tight-fitting plate by prying. Notice that the thumb piece is attached to the cylinder catch, which slides forward to release the cylinder. After determining nothing is broken, you should be able to push it forward enough to release the cylinder and check for the loose ejector rod.

If that doesn't work, you're back to tightening the ejector rod while it's still in the shroud.

Good luck!

Fred

 

[.357Magnus]

Hi Fred,
Thank you for the advice. You are right about the cylinder release button. I can not get it to move forward, so I may have to take off the sideplate as you suggested. I hope to be able to try this out tonight or soon. I will first try to get the ejector rod free as suggested above with a wooden match. Hopefully that will get it open. If not I will definately try removing the side plate as you suggested. I will post up the outcome.
Thanks,
Magnus

 

[scooter123]

One other tip is to insert a business card between the cylinder stop and the cylinder. Doing this will free up the cylinder to rotate and may make it easier to snug up the ejector rod.

Now, concerning that cylinder latch not being able to be moved, I would suggest that you look at the position of the hammer to see if it might be sitting "back" a bit at rest. If so, take a look into the opening in front of the hammer and see if you have something that's become lodged between the hammer and the frame. If so, you might be able to fish it out with a straight pin or something similar. If that isn't the problem, the only other option is to open up the lockwork and see what's causing this. Personally, I'd suspect either a broken hammer block or a broken bolt. BTW, the Bolt is the sliding bar that the cylinder release attaches to. Neither part is under much load and shouldn't be effected by recoil but sometimes "stuff happens".