A little help with this K-22, damaged?

Recoil Rob

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Just received my first K-22 today, I paid a premium since it was a 1955 gun described as "new' with a slight drag ring. When it arrived the drag ring wasn't bad at all but look at these marks on the cylinder face. What happened here, a case of someone dry-firing when the cylinder was between index? Appreciate your thoughts as I am feeling it should go back.

Cylinder2.jpg


Cylinder1.jpg
 
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Send it back. The peening is so bad the recesses are out of round and will take a machinist to repair. It's too filthy to see well, but it looks as though the indexing notches on the extractor are chewed up as well, if they are buggered up then the hand is probably buggered too.
 
My guess would be that the cylinder stop does not properly engage the stop notches in the cylinder, called throw by. I have never seen one that bad, thats why the guess. Somebody was a little slow on the uptake, or they would have got it fixed before that serious a situation developed.
The action can be repaired, but the indentations will be there forever.

Agreed, send it back. You paid a premium for a top quality gun, not one messed up.
 
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Agreed, send it back, it may have further problems you don't even know about. Someone sure didn't take very good care of that fine weapon, what else didn't they care about?:(
 
Looks like it was badly out of time and just a guess on my part, but looking at the back of the cylinder and extractor, it may have been reblued.
 
k-22

this is why i do not buy any guns that i cannnot check out in person. i would send it back i am sure it has other problems also, did you get it on auction or from an individual.
 
It may be minor, or it may be major, but something is very wrong with
the gun. That is not a new gun. I agree with the others - send it back
pronto .

Mike Priwer
 
Another vote for send it back.If you keep it, the next guy will send it back to you too,when you attempt to sell it.
 
I recently bought a .22 I-frame that had a few firing pin strikes in out-of-time positions, but nothing like this. I count 42 or 43 out-of-time strikes. How often do you have to have a misfire before it dawns on you that your gun is not functioning properly and needs a trip back to the factory?

I agree the ratchet teeth look a little rough, but only you can tell whether the gun is erratically timed in its current condition. If there was a bad hand or broken hand spring that was replaced in the past, then you may have a gun with a sound action now, but lots of scarring evidence from an earlier stage when the timing was not correct.

You have every right to return it for a full refund because defects were not disclosed. At the very least, and if the timing is good now, you should ask for a discount on the price you paid if you want to keep it.
 
I agree with the others, send it back. There are many more out there that will not show that kind of damage. Unless the asking price was $200 or less, it's no bargain.:D
 
Thanks for all the help, the seller has apologized and said to return it, he's doing the right thing.

Rob
 
If that cylinder was not shown in the sales listing or declared in the text you have every right to not only return it for full refund but refund including postage BOTH WAYS. This is not a case of satisfaction return privilege, it's a case of outright fraud. That being said, how is the timing now? Does each chamber lock up tight even on slow single action cocking? If so, it's already been repaired. Either way the gun is not ruined, just seriously marred and not worth a premium price! The dinged recesses for the cartridge rims are simple to fix and I've seen them function as is but I've removed dings like that. See if cartridges will chamber flush.
If you otherwise like the gun as a shooter, ask for a price adjustment. Large adjustment if still out of time, smaller if already repaired and in good time. The gun may noy have been otherwise abused, just operated by an idiot.

But if you send it back obtain agreement on shipping reimbursement before shipping it. If on an auction site and you don't get agreement, make a fraud complaint to the auction siteholder to get cooperation from the seller. If the seller knows he's going to be paying for shipping costs refund, he'll be much more agreeable to a good price adjustment!
 
Firing pin dents in cylinder

I have a 1947 K22 that has "some" of what you see here. I suspect that the "hand" was broken and didn't revolve the cylinder sufficiently. Mine was reworked, and has obviously had new parts fitted to it. It was also reblued (unfortunately not by the factory) and thus has a few artifacts of a bad bluing job which is unfortunate. However it fires perfectly today due to proper repair.

I would guess that a reamer could be obtained to repair the damage without the expense of a gunsmith. However the reamer would itself be $50 or so. Then there's the need to reblue the white metal.

If the rest of the revolver is good, it may be worth it for a shooter. But it's never going to be a great collectors piece.

Regards

David
 
In the alternative to sending it back, negotiate a substantial refund. (You decide what is "substantial" enough.) The timing fix is an easy and inexpensive one that you can do yourself.

The burrs in the chamber areas can be removed with a rotary tool or even by hand. (I would use a shaped tool to peen back the protrusions that are in the chamber areas rather than cutting them away.) No chambering reamer is needed. Any resulting "white" metal can be colored with cold blue. Peening back the burrs likely will not even remove the blue.

The firing pin marks will seriously reduce the collector value so the gun's value will be as a shooter, and it would need to be resold as such with full disclosure if you ever resell it.
 
In the alternative to sending it back, negotiate a substantial refund. (You decide what is "substantial" enough.) The timing fix is an easy and inexpensive one that you can do yourself.

The burrs in the chamber areas can be removed with a rotary tool or even by hand. (I would use a shaped tool to peen back the protrusions that are in the chamber areas rather than cutting them away.) No chambering reamer is needed. Any resulting "white" metal can be colored with cold blue. Peening back the burrs likely will not even remove the blue.

JudgeColt, I agree 100%. When I indicated above about fixing the dented chamber mouths I should have clarified. I didn't ream them. I don't like to remove metal when not necessary. I took a punch as close to the diameter of the chamber recess diameter as possible, making sure the punch had a crisp square end. Laying the tip in the recess against the protruding metal, gently tap on the side of the punch close to the tip. One will be surprised at how easy the metal wil "upset" and flow back to where it belongs. The whole procedure takes 4 to 5 minutes to do all chambers. It's really quite simple and as you said, seldom needs bluing touchup. Old expert gunsmiths's techniques can still be the best fixes.
 
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