Bobbed hammer J frame questions?

Bought it this way, not sure who did the work, it works. This is my current EDC.

attachment.php


Too much metal for me to try and make it look factory.

I did a MIM 637 hammer, a lot less metal, pulled the hammer dremeled off the spur and cleaned it up with a file and some sandpaper, wasn't too bad.
 

Attachments

  • Photo3469.jpg
    Photo3469.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 1,561
Does removing that amount of metal when bobbing the hammer impact the strike on the round? Any chance of light strikes?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
When I had my M37 Airweight, half of the thumb tab of the hammer broke off. I don't know if I dropped it or what happened. Anyway, I took the hammer out of the M37 and used a band sander to remove the remaining
thumb tab and bobbed the hammer back to where the factory ones did.

I then used a Cradex (sic) wheel on a grinder that is a soft non stone wheel made by 3M that lightly grinds, smooths and somewhat polishes steel/aluminum. Finished with a small medium coarse Scotchbrite autobody wheel on a die grinder to take the gloss off the polish.

Then I used a propane torch to heat the hammer briefly (just to get it very warm, but don't get hammer hot enough to affect temper of hammer) and then spray from a foot or two away with a spray lube like WD40 or Remoil and the oil will boil off and give you a faux case hardened look.
 
Last edited:
Those are refinished eh? Is that matte blueing?

I had the Baby Chiefs redone with Cerakote. The other two are a factory finish called "glass beaded satin blue." The only Chiefs I know of with that finish are the 36-2 DAO and the 36-6 3" Target. Both came out as limited editions in 1989.

Does removing that amount of metal when bobbing the hammer impact the strike on the round? Any chance of light strikes?

I've had no problem with mine.
 
Before bobbing a hammer, consider this is a modification of questionable worth. The alleged "no snag" value of the procedure sounds good, but it's more of a perceived advantage than a real one, sort of like using a grip adaptor.
 
I wouldn't even think of bobbing a J frame hammer. Look on Flea Bay almost all the J Frame hammers for sale on there are bobbed. Lots of them for cheap. Not bobbed hammers not cheap if you can find one. For me I would buy a Model 640.
 
I've only bobbed one hammer, on a Rossi 88 which was a really nice clone of a Model 60. I had a smith do it and polish the innards. Carried it for a couple of years till I could buy a 640, and never had any trouble with it. It always fired dependably.

I was told by a smith at some point that Colts were much more susceptible to light strikes from bobbed hammers than Smiths, which almost never had the problem.
 
"What would Murphy's Law say about carrying a spur hammer in a pocket?"

He would say it's not a problem if you use the same technique you use to draw and fire a single action revolver.
 
Dremel tool . . .

Would like to see how you guys have bobbed your hammers on your standard J frames. I was thinking of picking up one with the standard hammer and bobbing it but would like to know what the process is or if I need to have a smith do it so it is right? If I do it on a grinder wheel, will it make the trigger softer in the metal or should it be done by a smith?

Was also wondering if bobbing a hammer would screw up the warranty? Let me see pics of your bobbed hammered j frames if you got them. Thanks in advanced...
 
Dremel tool, bench grinder, file, belt sander. Anything that removes metal will work if the operator has enough skill. I do it out of the gun to avoid Murphys law and to keep grit or filing from possibly getting in the internals. You don't have to remove double action sear from hammer if you just tape over it and use care.

The lighter hammer should not cause light strikes. The main spring can accelerate the lighter boobed hammer faster and as MxV² applies. it will have plenty of energy to set off the primer

I also see a lot of bobbed and broken spur J frame hammers on Ebay
 
Groo here
You will note on factory or some aftermarket guns
the hammer has no notch where the spure was.
Metal has not been removed ,
This adds back some weight lost from the spure removal
Bobbing is not a good idea on a light spring gun.
 
I bobbed the hammer spur on my 637-2. I used a dremel like others have mentioned. I just went to Midway and bought a hammer for a j frame and cut it. Used some sandpaper to smooth it up. I kept the original to put back into the gun if necessary.

The bobbing didn't affect reliability on my 637 at all. Just like many others have mentioned. Pretty easy to do.

I'm thinking of doing the same to one of my K frames. It's a 64-2, but I don't know if I can find another hammer with the mounted firing pin. I want to keep the original.
 
Here's a couple of links for you to look at. First is Midway USA for the hammer asembly for the 360-PD - <<<Midway link>>>

Next is the link to the hammer assembly for the same gun at Numrich Gun Parts Corp. - <<<Numrich link>>>

Sorry for my ignorance but Ive never dropped in a MIM hammer or trigger before. How much work is involved in fitting it? My past experiences have been with hammers that needed a little bit of filing to fit correctly
 
Sorry for my ignorance but Ive never dropped in a MIM hammer or trigger before. How much work is involved in fitting it? My past experiences have been with hammers that needed a little bit of filing to fit correctly

I've never dropped in a replacement MIM hammer either, but I have dropped in a replacement forged hammer (and trigger too) on my 5" 27-2 in the past. I had no problems. And since MIM is supposed to be more exact in measurements than the earlier forged hammers, I figure it should not be unusual for it to be a drop in. If it does have a problem, he can try running the DA sear on his present hammer instead of the one that comes on the new hammer or just have a revolver smith adjust it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top