Buffing up a Stainless

[SmithNik]

Just picked up a Model 29 in 44 Mag. for a song.
I has not been cleaned or stored properly, so that it looks far worse than it is.
Mechanically, it is very sound.

I would like to do:
1) an in-depth cleaning of everything
2) buff up the surface to eliminate the myriad of hairline scratches all over the surface

I intend to soak it in my standard cleaning/lubricant solution that I found on the Makarov.com site years ago and then go over it with an old toothbrush.
This stuff is an Ed's Red equivalent and will dissolve most dirt and crud without harming a finish.

It's the buffing part that I have never done before
I would like to have different (about 3-4) levels (minimal being lowest) of buffing intensity.
Small areas that get the intense treatment will also get the lesser levels to make sure the final finish is the same all over.

I an not planning on using power tools. All work will be done by hand.
Appropriate tools and methods would be appreciated. Referent websites that can guide me would also be good

Thank you.

 

[SmithNik]

Just picked up a Model 29 in 44 Mag. for a song.
I has not been cleaned or stored properly, so that it looks far worse than it is.
Mechanically, it is very sound.

I would like to do:
1) an in-depth cleaning of everything
2) buff up the surface to eliminate the myriad of hairline scratches all over the surface

I intend to soak it in my standard cleaning/lubricant solution that I found on the Makarov.com site years ago and then go over it with an old toothbrush.
This stuff is an Ed's Red equivalent and will dissolve most dirt and crud without harming a finish.

It's the buffing part that I have never done before
I would like to have different (about 3-4) levels (minimal being lowest) of buffing intensity.
Small areas that get the intense treatment will also get the lesser levels to make sure the final finish is the same all over.

I an not planning on using power tools. All work will be done by hand.
Appropriate tools and methods would be appreciated. Referent websites that can guide me would also be good

Thank you.

 

[Damn Yankee]

Go to Walmart and get some Mothers Mag Wheel polish and go to town. When your done it will look like chrome.

 

[Jerry in SC]

For stainless revolvers I use 3M Scotchbrite pads (the ones for metal, not the paint removal types at home stores) that match the original finish for minor touch up. Gray (finer) or Maroon (coarser).

 

[handgunner356]

You are talking about a 629 aren't you?
+1 on the Mothers as long as it is stainless.

 

[SmithNik]

Originally posted by handgunner356:
You are talking about a 629 aren't you?
+1 on the Mothers as long as it is stainless.

Not being fully up on the model numbers for the .44 Magnums:
1) it's definitely a Stainless
2) I was told it was a Model 29.

Could I have been misinformed ?

By the way, thanks for the advice. and I'm off to buy the suggested products..

 

[sar4937]

Scotchbrite will leave a dull surface, maybe not correct for a 629. The Mother's, Simichrome, Flitz and others will shine it up. Open the cylinder and look at the frame behind the yoke for a model number. You could have a nickel finished 29. A 629 followed by a dash is a stainless gun, a 29- not.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by SmithNik:

Originally posted by handgunner356:
You are talking about a 629 aren't you?
+1 on the Mothers as long as it is stainless.

Not being fully up on the model numbers for the .44 Magnums:
1) it's definitely a Stainless
2) I was told it was a Model 29.

Could I have been misinformed ?

By the way, thanks for the advice. and I'm off to buy the suggested products..

If it is a nickel 29, do NOT rub on it with abrasives or polish. A factory SW nickel gun will have a big "N" stamped on the frame under the grip.

As stated before, flip open the cylinder and read the model number off the frame.

 

[SmithNik]

<snip>
You could have a nickel finished 29. A 629 followed by a dash is a stainless gun, a 29- not.

Well, the number is 29-3 and it does NOT look like Nickel
It looks Stainless
I put it next to my 681, and the finish is identical. Although it looks a bit more yellow. But I suspect that is the filthy condition it's in.
I have never owned any nickel firearm. So I have no way of knowing what nickel looks like compared to stainless steel

Did I get something special/unusual ?

Anyway, she's going in for her first soak tonight.
But I'll hold off on the buffing to make sure of what I have.

 

[john traveler]

Nickle plating does have a yellowish cast to it compared to bright chromium (bluish) or hard chromium and stainless (no yellowish or bluish cast).

Absolutely do NOT use any abrasive polish on that nickle plating! It will rub right through and ruin what finish you do have. You also have to be very careful of leaving any ammonia bore cleaner or powder solvents in contact with it. They are designed to dissolve metallic fouling (copper and lead) and will wreck your nickle plating.

 

[Jerry in SC]

A nickel 29-3?

Perhaps a very light use of Flitz by hand at most.

 

[SmithNik]

If it is truly a nickel instead of stainless,

1) does that increase or decrease it's value ?
2) How best to make it as pretty as possible
3) Worst case, what is involved in having it re-finished (factory or Other, cost, time, etc.)

(I admit that I am a newbie, with revolvers, with 45+ years of pistols.
I blame Elmer Keith with his book about six-guns that someone gave me.
And I blame Dave (that someone) for giving me the book for my birthday.
But my wife, has already appropriated, the 649 and Colt Agent, that were also recently acquired.

)

 

[bountyhunter]

I think factory nickel makes it more valuable. Look for the "N" on the grip frame to see if SW put nickel on it.

Do not use abrasives on it, do not use ammonia cleaner because it attacks the copper the nickle is plated onto. You can polish it with a T shirt and car wax.

 

[Jerry in SC]

Originally posted by bountyhunter

o not use abrasives on it, do not use ammonia cleaner because it attacks the copper the nickle is plated onto. You can polish it with a T shirt and car wax.

To the best of my knowledge S&W does not copper plate beneath the nickel.

 

[sar4937]

I would recommend posting a cleaning question on the revolver forum, or email S&W and ask them for a recommendation. They have always answered my questions. Do not do anything that you would not do to chrome finish on a collectable car.

 

[john traveler]

Ammoniated cleaning solutions also attach nickle. Waaaaaay back in the early teens and 1920s, before the widespread use of guilding metal alloy, bullet jackets were made of cupro-nickle alloy, and it was notorious for fouling rifle barrels. Hoppes was formulated specifically for dissolving nitrocelluose powder residue AND for removing bullet jacket fouling. Hence, it contains ammonia.

 

[Jerry in SC]

With all due respect...what do you think we used for cleaning 40 years ago?

Hoppe's contains 10% aqueous ammonia, I've used it for years on nickel plated S&W's with no adverse results. I've never soaked my guns in it and always used a good oil afterward.

The key ingredient in Hoppe's years ago was 6% nitro benzene. Nothing cleaned like Hoppe's in those days.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by Jerry in SC:

Originally posted by bountyhunter

o not use abrasives on it, do not use ammonia cleaner because it attacks the copper the nickle is plated onto. You can polish it with a T shirt and car wax.

To the best of my knowledge S&W does not copper plate beneath the nickel.

They did on my old nickel model 10 (vintage late 60's). Don't know about now.

 

[bountyhunter]

Originally posted by Jerry in SC:
With all due respect...what do you think we used for cleaning 40 years ago?

Hoppe's contains 10% aqueous ammonia, I've used it for years on nickel plated S&W's with no adverse results. I've never soaked my guns in it and always used a good oil afterward.

The key ingredient in Hoppe's years ago was 6% nitro benzene. Nothing cleaned like Hoppe's in those days.

Berryman's chemtool carburetor dip bucket still has benzene in it. It's the only thing I have seen soften up burned carbon rings and make them rub off easier.

 

[SmithNik]

Just to confirm.
The revolver has a BIG "N" under the left stock, at the right base of the frame, confirming that it's a Nickel finish.