Cleaning around the force cone

[Murphy's Law]

I'm kind of anal about cleaning my weapons. Being new to revolvers (have a Talo 686 +) and having a dickens of a time getting the carbon off around the forcing cone. I've heard some say use dental floss with others saying lead free cloth, etc. so far no matter what I try, I have been uncessful to my satisification. Anyone have any tricks that make it fairly easy or should I just not be so picky?

 

[hkcavalier]

I have had good luck with soaking the area in MPro7 and then scrubbing with a big bore (12g, .45, etc) copper bore brush, then "flossing" with an old cotton T-shirt. Just be careful not to gouge anything with the steel wire in the middle of the brush. Won't look like it just came out of the case the first time but it's *mostly* clean.

I suppose you could also "floss" with a metal polishing cloth, but that does remove a tiny layer of metal. I don't believe it's worth it just for cleanliness.

 

[msinc]

Brownell's makes a heavy brass brush for cleaning pistols. I use one of those and a brass cleaning rod. I open the cylinder, pass the cleaning rod thru the barrel and screw on the brush. The brushes are shorter than the standard bore brush. Then, depending on how bad it is I either turn it by hand after wetting it good with Shooters Choice or spin it on low in my cordless drill. Helps to have a wooden jaw vise to clamp the gun in while you are doing this. Very quick, very effective and harmless to the gun...unless you drop the entire shebang on a concrete floor.

 

[stang1911]

Try an X-Acto knife or shell casing in extreme conditions or bore tech carbon remover.

 

[Murphy's Law]

Some food for thought......thanks guys

 

[dfariswheel]

I use a brass scraper I made out of brass rod.
File it into a chisel shape and use it to scrape the area.

Another trick is to buy a "lead-away" cloth used to clean leading and carbon from stainless revolver cylinders.
Cut some strips, then use these like a shoe shine cloth back and forth.
For the outer sides, put some of the lead-away over the end of your brass scraper and rub the areas.

Yet another way is to buy a carbon removal liquid and soak the area. I use Slip 2000 Carbon Killer to clean the gas piston of my AK-74 and it also works to remove carbon from pistols.

 

[MichiganScott]

Brass toothbrush and bore solvent.

 

[gtoppcop]

Use FLITZ with a stiff-bristled toothbrush. Works everytime. The green liquid is better than the blue paste, but both work well. The carbon comes right off. I like FLITZ for the cylinder face also.

 

[Mike McLellan]

A heavy shoe-lace works.

 

[usnrigger]

MPro7 Bore Gel same as Hoppes Elite Bore Gel, And a brass brush

 

[824tsv]

I use the heavy shoelace trick like Mike mentions. I use an old hockey skate lace that I soak the lace in the middle with Hoppes #9 and run it back and forth. Works like a charm.

 

[John R]

Brownell's makes a heavy brass brush for cleaning pistols. I use one of those and a brass cleaning rod. I open the cylinder, pass the cleaning rod thru the barrel and screw on the brush. The brushes are shorter than the standard bore brush. Then, depending on how bad it is I either turn it by hand after wetting it good with Shooters Choice or spin it on low in my cordless drill. Helps to have a wooden jaw vise to clamp the gun in while you are doing this. Very quick, very effective and harmless to the gun..unless you drop the entire shebang on a concrete floor.

Do you know this from first hand experience?

 

[Lou_NC]

I'm kind of anal about cleaning my weapons. Being new to revolvers (have a Talo 686 +) and having a dickens of a time getting the carbon off around the forcing cone.

Not sure whether you're actually talking about fouling deposit(s) on the underside of the top strap? If so, my worst case example was a model 17 that was really "caked up" in that area when I bought it used. I removed the cylinder (not required but made the job easier) and inverted the revolver and placed the barrel in the padded jaws of my bench vise. Then I took an eyedropper and "filled" the area between the barrel shroud and top strap with good old Hoppe's #9, and left it alone for 24 hours. (Surface tension kept a good amount of solvent in place, with minimal evaporation). After the 24 hour soak/softening, I picked away the fouling that had softened up using a .223 case with the mouth crushed flat (my "fouling remover" scraper). Repeat as necessary, if the deposit is really thick, you may remove the "softened" fouling pretty fast, then get down to harder stuff. Soak another 24 hours and repeat as needed.

When I first tried this approach, I had no idea whether it would work or not. After trying it once, I was amazed at how effective Hoppe's #9 was on fouling simply by letting it soak overnight. Live and learn.

Lou

 

[WR Moore]

When I first started at my present employment, we issued the 681. We also had a really anal armorer who insisted the front of the cylinder and forcing cone area be spotless.

Much time was spent with brass brushes and other methods. After some revolvers had to have their cylinders replaced due to excessive wear from over euthusiastic cleaning efforts, S&W sent a nastygram and management rectifed the situation.

Yes, get it reasonably clean. Just don't be obsessive about it.

 

[chief38]

For mild to light deposit's a heavy pair of Sneaker Laces with some Solvent applied - (worked back & forth on top and below the FC) works well. Won't take off heavy deposit's - for those a Bronze or Copper Brush or Brass Scraper or Lead-A-Way would be needed. Don't "over clean" or you will remove the Bluing.

 

[FloridaFlier]

+1 on the shoelaces. Toughest part of that program is holding the frame still. Use leather or something similar in your vice so there is no metal to metal contact or you will scratch the frame.

 

[Lou_NC]

+1 on the shoelaces. Toughest part of that program is holding the frame still. Use leather or something similar in your vice so there is no metal to metal contact or you will scratch the frame.

Totally agree with this statement! Another alternative is to get a set of these - rubber vice jaws. They work great, have a magnetic back to hold them in place. I haven't used leather in my vice since I bought these years ago. Do a web search on "rubber vice jaws" and you'll find many places to buy them from.

 

[chief38]

Also easy to make. Angle iron (or Aluminum) with rubber glued on works perfectly. I also made sets out of Ash Wood, Brass, Sintra (soft plastic) and leather. I did have some made out of Lead, but disliked using it. Obviously I take the grips off before putting into vise.

 

[Jebus35745]

I remember a while back that some used old pieces of window screen to clean between the barrel and frame. The fiberglass or aluminum screen was used, cut in strips and run back & forth with a cleaner. Anyone use this method? Larry

 

[mark44spec]

As others have said, soaking with a gel solvent will help alot.Time is your friend.