Dillon presses

rockquarry

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Not wanting to sidetrack the current Dillon SBD, I'll ask a few question here regarding Dillon presses in general. It appears there are quite a few Dillon users on this forum.

If you loaded six or more different handgun cartridges, some using small primers and some large, what would be a good setup for the 550? Buy one press and multiple conversions? Or two presses, one set up for small primers and one for large?

How long does it take to convert everything over if you have one press and switch primer sizes?

I like the manual index feature of the 550, but would I miss out on the added speed of the 750? I don't think I would but I may have overlooked something. And the SBD, multiples of this press might also work.

I can't really justify a progressive at this time, but I might want one (or more) and I suppose that's justification in itself.
 
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I have used most progressive presses out there at some point, either mine or someone else's. I started out on single stage, like most do. I now have 4 Dillon 550Bs, (now 550C). Three of them are set up for small primer, one for large. I had a Square Deal, but didn't like it at all. I've had the first 550 for over 30 years and collected the others along the way.

It takes about 10 minutes to change over from one primer size to the other. It's not difficult at all, just a matter of learning how the machine is set up. If changing from one caliber to another that has the same rim size, it takes about a minute, because all you're doing is trading the die blocks on top. If you have to change the top and bottom, about 10 minutes again.

I could have gone for the 650 (now 750) or the 1050 (now 1100), but I chose the simpler non auto index. I have probably loaded half a million rounds on these presses over the years and don't feel handicapped by the slightly slower manual index. It's much easier to work with when something gets fouled up than an auto index. I'm very mechanically inclined and can deal with all of them. I prefer simple for my own use.
 
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So, how difficult is it to learn to operate a Dillon?



I have a new 550B that has never been out of the box. They were all the rage at the time and it appears they still are the reigning champ of progressives in a reasonable price range. After reading tons of info about using them, which I should have done before buying, it just seemed to be too much trouble for a dyed - in - the wool single stage user to fathom. Now at 73 I don't know I could even operate it if I wanted to...
 
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I started with a Dillon 300, then left it behind when the 550 was introduced. I've upgraded mine as improvements came along; it's a "C" model but without grease zerk. Protocall Design calls out accurate time frames for primer and caliber changes.

I've loaded on Dillon 1000 and 1050's but do not wish to own one. Glad I did not buy a 650. If I were to load zillons of one caliber, I might consider a 750.

You note I mention a 300. To put it simply, you do not want a 300 if you will be using its primer function. It was introduced about 1983 and was obsolete the instant the 450 came out a couple years later.
 
So, how difficult is it to learn to operate a Dillon?



I have a new 550B that has never been out of the box. They were all the rage at the time and it appears they still are the reigning champ of progressives in a reasonable price range. After reading tons of info about using them, which I should have done before buying, it just seemed to be too much trouble for a dyed - in - the wool single stage user to fathom. Now at 73 I don't know I could even operate it if I wanted to...

To learn to operate a 550, you first treat it like a single stage, thus using only 1 of the 4 stations until you get the hang of it. A strong light for the powder drop and bullet seating stations is a sound idea. Dillon (and others) have how to use video's.

My 550 is factory spec except I've added a primer track bearing plate Dillon RL 550B/C Primer Track Bearing Plate W/Ball Bearing 95056442041 | eBay I consider this gadget a "MUST" addition.
 
The SDB is great for its intended purpose: cranking out pistol rounds at a rate, realistically speaking, of two to three hundred per hour. That can be pushed up a little if you have extra primer tubes loaded ahead of time. Changing from one primer size to another is uncomplicated and takes little time. Overall, I think the other Dillons are superior. But the Square Deal does have its place.
 
Love my 550B, had only one for years and swapped primer feed when needed. I found a deal on a whole setup earlier this year and have 2nd 550B. It is nice having one for large and small primers.

That being said. I would have never invested in 2nd 550B at new prices. Only bought because it was a smoking deal.

Rosewood
 
Great responses as I anticipated. Thank you all. I've had four progressives over many years but never a Dillon. I've never needed a progressive and haven't used one in a good while as my old '60s Texan turret still works well for handgun ammo. Just considering a Dillon at this point based on the level of satisfaction loyal users have.
 
You can definitely get by with just one 550 but having two has obvious advantages.

It’s also nice to have at least two powder dispenser assemblies so no need to swap out the large or small powder bar.

I also like having two die sets each for 357 and 44, so all I do is swap tool heads when switching from 38 to 357 or 44 special to magnum.
 
I’ve got two 550’s, one for small primers, the other for large. I’m very happy with my the setup.

I also have quick change connectors for the powder measure, as well as micrometer adjustments for the charge bars. I just have two powder measures, one with a large charge bar, the other with a small.

It makes swapping between cartridges very easy, and much cheaper than buying a dedicated powder measure for each cartridge.
 
I’ve got two 550’s, one for small primers, the other for large. I’m very happy with my the setup.

I also have quick change connectors for the powder measure, as well as micrometer adjustments for the charge bars. I just have two powder measures, one with a large charge bar, the other with a small.

It makes swapping between cartridges very easy, and much cheaper than buying a dedicated powder measure for each cartridge.

That makes much sense. Along the same lines are the settings for the measures repeatable or would you be better off having a dedicated measure for each cartridge you load for? I realize this would be another significant expense.
 
That makes much sense. Along the same lines are the settings for the measures repeatable or would you be better off having a dedicated measure for each cartridge you load for? I realize this would be another significant expense.

I find the settings to be repeatable. I just throw a few charges to verify and get to it.
 
My first Dillon was a 450 that I picked up used for $150 with everything I needed to load 9mm. My second was a 550 that I bought used with automatic case feeder and a bunch of other extras. I keep it set up for small primer since that is what I load most. The 450 is now set up for large primer and .45 colt. I can quickly change it to .45 ACP or .44 Mag. when the need ever arises. The 450 came with two powder measures, but both have since broken the "ears" off and now I just transfer the one from the 550 back and forth. I should probably just order a new one.
 
I bought the then new Dillon 450 in 1984. In the 90's upgraded to the 550.

The 450/550 series will load from 32 S&W to 375 H&H lengths without any problems! I mixed & matched conversion parts to be able to load cartridges they don't make conversions for LIKE: 50-70 Gov't. and a bunch of metric military rifle cartridges.

I own 19 shell plates and about 37 powder funnels. The only things I can't load are 45 AR, French 8mm Lebel, and 8 x 52mm Siamese.

No other Dillon will load Magnum Lenth shells, like 8mm Rem Mag, 460 Weatherby Mag. and the other monsters, and yet go as small as 32 ACP. (No plate for 25 ACP)

When they went to the 550 with tool heads I always keep one or two heads for oddball loadings that don't stay that way permanently. I have 9 tool heads with permanently mounted dies. But I only have 4 case mouth powder measurers and the original 450 push bar powder drop.

The key to consistency of ammo is to get a rhythm and no interruptions!

For example on 45 ACP or 45 Colt. I load 10 primer tubes of WLP. have the can of WW 231 right by the press and 1000+ projectiles at hand. I have background music (Never TV or sports). I leave notice I'm not to be disturbed except for "Fire, Blood or Flood" emergencies! This is a two-hour loading marathon! When I'm through the 1000, It's time for a bathroom break or a meal and start again afterwards. I can do 5000 on a Saturday and I'm done with loading that round for about 6 months (unless my sons shoot up my ammo!)

Then move to the next cartridge.

When I first started, I had a full auto 9mm and loaded several 5000 round batches of 9mm over a few month period. Then I loaded a 20,000-round batch of 223 55gr Ball ammo. Large batches require large amounts of brass, It takes quite a while to accumulate 6000 or more 45 Colt brass or 10000 45 ACP brass, but in the long run, it is well worth it!

I use the same projectile on multiple cartridges: 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 45 Schofield (S&W), and 45 Special (Long Colt brass but ACP Length) and on 44's: 44 Mag, 44 Special, and 44 Russian. (44-40 is a smaller diameter but same weight) I buy bullets when I get a good price for around 50,000 bullets of one configuration.

Last idea on any progressive press: Buy all the cartridge conversions you think you will possibly need now! The price will only go up from here!
Look at "Families" of cartridge rims. (AKA Bolt Face), then you only need a new powder funnel to change to a related round (saving up to $75 now days) For example: 10mm, 40 S&W, 357 Sig, 7.62x39 Russian and 6.5 mmx54 Mannlicher and 6.5mmx52 Carcano, all use the same shell plate. Another group is: 45 Colt, 44-40, 44 mag., 44 Special, 44 Russian, 303 British and 444 Marlin (also included 460 S&W and 454 C.) (the 303 B. and 444 M. might need a thickness adjustment) I also use the same shell plate for 9mm Lugar, 9mm Largo, 9mm Styre, 9mm Browning Long, 380 ACP, 223 Rem and that whole family!

USE A PIECE OF MASKING TAPE AND LABEL WHAT CARTRIDGE AND POWDER CHARGE IS ON THE PRESS! Don't ask how I learned that the hard way!

Ivan
 
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as well as micrometer adjustments for the charge bars. .

Tell me more about this? How much, where can I find it. This has been one of my pet peeves about the Dillon power drop. Guess work to get it where it needs to be.

Thanks,

Rosewood
 
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