Epic 686 jam

[wood714]

I thought about that but my hands and face are exposed in the meantime to a live round.

I just thought of something: a solvent. I have a bunch of Sweets 7.62. That stuff is toxic as hell and eats copper for breakfeast. I may fill the barrel up with it, since it is stainless, and let it just sit and eat the bullet out. Not so sure how it works on lead but considering how aggressive it is, it may work.

What about hydrogen peroxide? Google says it eats lead quickly.

I use what they call the dip to clean my all stainless 22 silencer. It's a 50/50 mix of peroxide and white vinegar.

I put it in a old glass planters peanut jar and let it sit out in the garage over night. Put some heavy duty rubber gloves on, remove the silencer tube and mono core, and rinse with water. I've had it for 8 or 9 years and it looks as clean as the day I bought it.

The dip will not hurt glass, stainless or titanium. It will pretty much destroy anything else. A lot of people have ruined aluminum silencers with it.

*edit*

This person used it on non stainless. It did remove the lead thou. Still safe to use on stainless.

Warning – Using Hydrogen Peroxide & Vinegar to Remove Lead Will Etch Firearm Bores

 

[VictorLouis]

In my old kit of small files, there is one that is not cut on the broad flat sides. It's only got teeth on the narrow edges. I'm not sure how wide the flash-gap is on your gun, but perhaps one of those special jeweler's files another member posted about would do the trick. It would be slow-going, but at least you'd work from the side/s of the gun, and not the muzzle.

 

[steelslaver]

The gap should only be in the .006 range and I have some tiny files, have never seen one that thin. In fact I doubt you can find a jeweler saw blade that thin. MY research shows the smallest as a 0/6 at .007 with 76 teeth per inch. That means one stroke and you will probably have all the teeth full of lead as jacket bullets use real soft gummy lead. You could do it with a whole lot of patience
There is no reason you could not drill the center out of that bullet and for that matter the bullet in the live round. The live round might start turning but it is probably jammed tight by previous attempts to drive the squib into it. If you do end up cutting the squib with a real thin blade just cutting the jacket and a bit of lead would beat cutting every bit,

A long 5/16 (.3125 )drill with heat shrink tubing on it. In fact I would cut the actual drill part to about 3/8" long and resharpen it so that very little actual drill was in the barrel.

I would make every effort to pull the bullet first though. Although I would use caution and keep from in front of the bore, if I had the gun in a padded vise I would have little concern about it just firing. Unless something slams into the primer or gets it way hot it will not just decide to go bang.

But, I think the bullet is now swelled up from pounding on its nose, and stuck tight. If I had it in my hands and a couple attempts to pull the bullet failed. I would fixture the gun on my mill with open side of ejector shroud up, use a 1/8" carbide mill to cut the ejector rod off flush with front of yoke, then unscrew the barrel.

Your probably going to need a gun smith with a mill and a frame wrench.

 

[StrawHat]

Are you sure there is a live round under the lodged bullet?

What loads are in the chamber? How much space between the end of the loaded cartridge and the front face of the cylinder?

If this revolver was brought to me when I was an armorer, I would be considering inserting a block between the firing pin and the primer of the round forward of the firing pin. I would then lock the revolver in a vise and use a range rod to tap the bullet back into the cylinder. Judging from the rod indicator in the OP's photograph, it does not have to be moved much to free the cylinder.

Kevin

 

[Hapworth]

Count me among the perplexed that a squib can be sent with enough force to entirely enter the bore such that the cylinder can revolve to line up the next round, then same squib can "roll back" out of the bore with enough force to lodge across the bore, gap and charge hole divide and lock things up.

Curious physics, but it's a strange universe.

Anyway, the jewelers saw seems the best options if it clears gap, but in the absence of one, perhaps a narrow-enough feeler gauge can be used -- I assume with some determination and patience -- as a slicer.

Good luck, OP, and keep us posted.

 

[oysterer]

Try the dental floss, it may take a while to get through but it will cut. I've seen where steel bars have been cut with it. Adding a bit of ajax or similar abrasive may speed things up. If this sounds like it won't work, just ask any Correctional Officer.

this I want to see....

 

[Heinz]

A bullet puller would probably have worked. The tread on a lag screw is way too coarse to get a purchase in the relatively short length of a pistol bullet
armorer951 has probably given you your best remaining option

 

[Heinz]

Or steelslaver, I did not see his post while I was typing

 

[mikerjf]

Lead and copper melt at a lower temp than stainless.

Yeah, I know... just mentioning it because no one else has.


I'm in the "drill it out" camp... perhaps clamped on a lathe with the drill in the chuck.

 

[Univibe]

And I thought MY 686 jam was weird.

I fired a jacketed round. A tiny sliver of jacket somehow got wedged in the cylinder gap and locked her up tight as a bank vault. If this had been an actual emergency, I would have been killed.

Don't let anybody tell you "Revolvers never / can't jam."

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Maybe you should remove the firing pin.

^I like the way this feller thinks!^

 

[armorer951]

We're not even close to giving up.

The other "tool" that came to my mind is a dent puller slide hammer used by the auto body repair people. I'm wondering if you could use this tool, or as others have suggested, screw a threaded rod into the projectile, then use the puller (or a facsimile using a vise grip and hammer) to "pull" the projectile forward just enough to open and remove the cylinder.....and then simply tap out the stuck bullet.

 

[Steve912]

I use what they call the dip to clean my all stainless 22 silencer. It's a 50/50 mix of peroxide and white vinegar.
Still safe to use on stainless.

Warning – Using Hydrogen Peroxide & Vinegar to Remove Lead Will Etch Firearm Bores

Need to mention that what is formed is lead acetate, a very toxic nasty.

"The Dip" - A Toxic Mixture Used To Clean Silencer Parts -The Firearm Blog

 

[500SNW]

For that matter, were you even shooting reloads or were they factory?

That's the question that's been nagging at me. Was this squib a factory load and, if so, was it of recent production and, more importantly, was it stored properly? I don't use factory ammo, but I hate to see reputable companies putting out potentially dangerous product. Squibs can be even more distatrous than ammo exceeding SAAMI pressure limits...if they go undetected during a shooting string.

 

[StrawHat]

If you plan to use a "saw" of any type, you have a very good chance of scoring the barrel or cylinder face. Not something I would recommend.

Kevin

 

[oysterer]

Lead and copper melt at a lower temp than stainless.

Yeah, I know... just mentioning it because no one else has.


I'm in the "drill it out" camp... perhaps clamped on a lathe with the drill in the chuck.

This thread is becoming interesting....I do not think the melt temperature of lead will be healthy for a barrel, tempering and such.

I do tend to like the idea of inserting a protective aluminum tube and a long drill bit if that exists and drilling it out. If pushing the bullet down with a brass rod and jag won't work. Pushing it down into the live round with precautions (firing pin etc).

 

[ShadyDrifter]

Until the live rounds are removed, this might be a good use of the IL.

I'd rather take a live round to the hand than have an IL

 

[Tytan01]

Squib bullet is backing out of the forcing cone just enough to reach the cylinder hole. Can't remove cylinder because the squib is locking the cylinder from the forcing cone, and there is a loaded round in the same cylinder hole the squib is backing into.

Is the gun gone? I see no safe way of fixing this. My only though is to perhaps try to get some kroil penetrating oil into the loaded round's gun powder to neutralize the gun powder and then mash the squib and the loaded bullet back into the case enough to open the cylinder.

A Gunsmith should be able to remove the barrel out of the frame then remove the bullets from the barrel. If he can't save the barrel, you would just need a new barrel.

 

[AlHunt]

I'm not recommending this. But if the firing pin is disabled, the round is not going to randomly "go off". So ...

Were this my problem and the B/C gap is too narrow to use a jewelers saw, I'd go with the long drill in a protective tube and drill out the offending bullet.

BUT - I'd set the drill up in a vise and hold the gun while running it into the drill bit. If it "went off" somehow it'd still be a mess but at least it wouldn't be pointed at me.

I'm not recommending anyone actually try this. Just participating in the conversation.

 

[saemetric]

Do the above with a threaded rod into the bullet. Put a flat washer and nut onto the threaded rod sticking out of the bbl. Holding the rod with vice grips, turn the nut and pull bullet back into forcing cone. Open cylinder. Done.
Should only take a few minutes once you get e threaded rod.