Yes it is. That's why I mentioned to wear heavy duty rubber gloves.
As dangerous as it is, were only talking maybe an ounce at most of it.
Epic 686 jam
- Thread starter 460harry
- Start date
Yes it is. That's why I mentioned to wear heavy duty rubber gloves.
As dangerous as it is, were only talking maybe an ounce at most of it.
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
Late to the show, didn't read more than the first couple of posts. If the bullet is still in the forcing cone, but back enough to block the cylinder, try this. I had the same thing happen not too long ago with my M-19-3. Prevailing wisdom seems to be trying to drive it back into the cylinder, but IMO you run the risk of putting undue strain on the cylinder and center rod, possibly inducing end play. What I did, and it worked perfectly, was to hold the gun muzzle down by the grip, and smack the muzzle with a plastic mallet like mechanics use. The plastic won't damage the barrel; the inertial force will drive the bullet further into the barrel, enough so you can unlock and open the cylinder. Then you take a wooden dowel and drive the bullet backwards through the forcing cone. You hold the gun firmly enough you don't drop it, but loosely enough it can move backwards rapidly when you smack the muzzle. It might take two-three sharp blows to move the bullet enough, but it will move.
Bumpus13
Member
You can't unscrew the barrel with the cylinder and ejector rod in place.
StrawHat
Member
challer61
Member
Use a jewelers saw to slice it, and/or a long bit to progressively drill it out from the muzzle until the remaining shell is weak
Wrangler Rich
US Veteran
Maybe I'm missing something here, but it doesn't appear that the cylinder has rotated enough for the squib to be lodged into a chamber.
I would take out as much of the action out of the gun as possible, then without ruining the finish on the cylinder, rotate it backwards to an empty chamber then push the squib into it.
WR
I would take out as much of the action out of the gun as possible, then without ruining the finish on the cylinder, rotate it backwards to an empty chamber then push the squib into it.
WR
You missing that the squib is stuck between the barrel and the cylinder. Even with no hand or cylinder stop the cylinder can't turn and the yoke will not swing out.
Here is another thought. take a coarse hack saw blade and grind it down to .006 thickness. It will work way better than a fine tooth jeweler saw
Here is another thought. take a coarse hack saw blade and grind it down to .006 thickness. It will work way better than a fine tooth jeweler saw
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
Where is the OP?
StrawHat
Member
Last posting on 10 Feb.
Interesting, he had a similar prom with another revolver. That one was a 460.
Kevin
badguybuster
Member
I had something similar happen several years ago on a ruger. I took a wooden dowl piece and taped it to the hammer so it could not strike the firing pin. Put the gun in a vise and drilled all the way thru the squib. I then used a large screw (dont remember the size) wrapped in a couple layers of electrical tape. i threaded it down until it was snug. Then used a ratchet to slowly twist the peojectile backward. It took some effort and I stood off to the side during the process but it worked.
Nothing to say that hasn't been said but I wanted a post to make it easier to follow this to the end result! Seriously, take the sideplate off, remove all internals possible and work it from there. I will add that once the internals are removed, you have no cylinder stop or bolt to interfere with your cylinder possible allowing you to work this out easier.
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I read this whole thread and feel like I missed the last 5 minutes of the movie. As for opinions, that projectile gotta go forward enough to open the cylinder then driven back and out. Not sure of the "best" way. Another opinion: this ain't happening with Speer premium factory ammo. Joe
Once you removed the hand you should be able to remove just about everything. But why? With the side plate on the hammer block would remain in place and the hammer nose can't make it to the firing pin unless you went to banging on stuff with a sledge hammer. It would not hurt, but I don't see how it will help much. Neither the hand or the cylinder stop are what is stopping the cylinder from moving. The bullet stuck between barrel and cylinder is. Once it is removed, cut in half at gap or whatever the cylinder will open and the rest of bullet can be removed as can any live rounds.
NO OP for a while. Maybe we been had.
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Hopefully, not something worse working on a loaded revolver.
If you really want to render it safe use a long 1/4" drill and slowly work drill down trough the squib, then the live round under it and empty out the powder. as the barrel is plugged at the forcing cone once you got started you could keep the barrel full of light oil, keep the heat down and a soon are you went through the bullet on live round kill the powder.
But, then most of you have probably never welded on the side of a 12" pipe full of raw gasoline either.
Perfectly safe IF you know just what you are doing.
But, then most of you have probably never welded on the side of a 12" pipe full of raw gasoline either.
Perfectly safe IF you know just what you are doing.
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