Epic 686 jam

[AlHunt]

I felt like something was weird because I got such low velocity on the chronograph ...

I wonder that you got anything at all on the chronograph. It'll be interesting to see what comes out of that revolver. Some part of something must have left the barrel.

 

[AlHunt]

Stick this down the barrel, then drill out the round through the tube with a long bit. Unsure of your barrel length but you'll need the length they use to drill through top plates in homes.

Then use a bigger bit and reverse run it until it backs out enough that you can remove the live round.

Remove the live round then continue with extraction.

Order 0.3125" OD x 0.049" Wall x 0.2145" ID Aluminum Round Tube 6061-T6-Drawn Online, Outer Diameter: 5/16", Wall: 0.049", Inner Diameter: 0.2145"

How would this work? He'd have to drill through the squib to get to the live round. Even if he drilled into the live round, he still couldn't remove it with the squibbed round in place.

What am I not understanding?

 

[GaryHK]

You are essentially drilling a pilot hole in the squib, then using a larger bit to cut into the squib then reverse the drill. Lead is so soft that this should work.

My guess is that we are talking about no more than 1/4" to 3/8" of protrusion.

Your first priority is NOT removing the squib, it's removing the live round.

Need to give yourself room to unload the weapon FIRST, then continue getting rid of the squib.

 

[33jayman]

I would add to buy a cheap feeler gauge set if you don't have one already and put the correct thickness feeler gauge between the cartridge and the firing pin and then try the suggestions mentioned above.

Good luck and may the force be with you.

Jayman

 

[Muley Gil]

Or remove the barrel

How are you going to remove the barrel with the cylinder still in the gun??????

 

[AlHunt]

You are essentially drilling a pilot hole in the squib, then using a larger bit to cut into the squib then reverse the drill. Lead is so soft that this should work.

My guess is that we are talking about no more than 1/4" to 3/8" of protrusion.

Your first priority is NOT removing the squib, it's removing the live round.

Need to give yourself room to unload the weapon FIRST, then continue getting rid of the squib.

Got it - you're wanting to back the squib out just enough to open the cylinder. After that it's hammer and dowel time.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Whatever you choose, remember that oil does NOT reliably kill primers. I know this from personal experience.

 

[jc2721]

pictures are worth a thousand words, especially in this situation

 

[Muley Gil]

Isn't there a black-powder tool for removing balls? Has a threaded cone on the end?

It's called a ball puller. It is basically a wood screw and collar that threads onto the end of the ramrod. You jam it into the stuck ball and screw it into place and then pull the ball out of the barrel.

I would fill the gap between the case head and the recoil shield with feeler gauges to keep the firing pin/hammer nose away from the live round.

 

[GaryHK]

Got it - you're wanting to back the squib out just enough to open the cylinder. After that it's hammer and dowel time.

Yep. The closest route is through the forcing cone anyway.

 

[K-22]

I once had to use a jeweler's saw to cut a lead squib. It is a tiny cable with diamond teeth that fit in the cylinder gap behind the forcing cone. Then I could open the cylinder and drive the squib out

What Peak said.
East peasy.
Best,
Gary

 

[Rodmaker01]

Stick a rod down the barrel until it meets the obstruction and mark it for depth and check it against the outside of the barrell to see how far the bullet is in the barrel. Might give you a better idea on how to proceed. But, the safest bet is it to take it to the gunsmith.

 

[gscrasher]

Why do you think there is a live round in the charge hole that the stuck bullet just left?

 

[460harry]

Put piece of cloth over the muzzle and firmly tap it against a bench to see if you can move the squib down bore enough to clear the forcing cone. If that fails you are into a bullet extractor from the muzzle. If that fails I guess you're removing the barrel.

I did the barrel tap and it did not work. I am going to do the lag screw trick, pull the bullet slightly into the barrel, just far enough so that I can clear the cylinder, remove the cylinder and then push the squib back out the forcing cone.

 

[VikingDude]

How are you going to remove the barrel with the cylinder still in the gun??????

My thoughts exactly.

And if the squib is blocking the cylinder so you can't swing it out, how on earth could you turn the cylinder so there is a live round behind the squib??

 

[sw dan]

hi folks, does this revolver not have a hammer block?

 

[Muley Gil]

hi folks, does this revolver not have a hammer block?

It should. However, I have opened up a few S&Ws over the years and found that someone had removed the hammer block. Some folks ain't got no sense.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

Agreed on dousing everything the thinnest penetrating oil you have and let sit for a few hours.
Then popping off the sideplate and firing pin. Leave out the hammer and hammer spring.
get an x-acto blade and push the projectile into the forcing cone.
Using a rubber mallet, gently tap the cylinder open. Hopefully everything is lubed up and slides open quickly.
On second thought. Just pay a gunsmith for the headaches.

Remember to ask if your smith replaced the hammer block

 

[P.44]

For this "Safety Thing":
Perhaps just loosen/ remove the straincrew (+ mainspring) ?

P.44

 

[GaryHK]

I wonder if anyone makes a long skinny ez out? Looking at my tools as we speak I have a very skinny, approx 1/8" ez out but, of course, it's way too short.