Face lifting model 10

richrd

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I have a model 10 that doesn't have much blueing left. I was thinking about stripping it down, bead blasting, and doing a cold blue. Thinking it would have to look better than it does now.

Anyone know of any other products or processes that might work
 
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I have never had much luck with Cold Bluing, however I've never blued an entire gun, just did touch-ups or individual parts. The bluing wears off fairly easily (at least where hand contact is made) and I am using what I deem the best of what's available which is Brownell's Oxpho Blue paste and / or Birchwood Casey Bluing Paste.

I have tried all the tricks such as heating the gun up prior to bluing, using multiple coats, cleaning the surface with alcohol before heating, etc. - still the results for me have been lack luster.

If I had a gun with a bad finish that I really really liked, shot a bunch and wanted to keep it forever, I would have it professionally hot blued - but that's just me. Yes, cold bluing at home is cheap - but IMHO you get what you pay for with bluing. Some guys report descent results so maybe they have a better technique than I do.

If your M10 is a seldom shot revolver, then the Cold Bluing may be enough to "float your boat".
 
IMO Brownell's Oxpho Blue is the best product available today. It works extremely well, is very easy to use and doesn't stink like some of the others do. I like the liquid but the cream works well too.

You will be happy with that product if you give it a try. Of course it is cold bluing so it's not going to look like "real bluing" but it will look good enough to be worth the time.

Oxpho Blue at Brownells
 
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IMO Brownell's Oxpho Blue is the best product available today. It works extremely well, is very easy to use and doesn't stink like some of the others do. I like the liquid but the cream works well too.

You will be happy with that product if you give it a try. Of course it is cold bluing so it's not going to look like "real bluing" but it will look good enough to be worth the time.

Oxpho Blue at Brownells


Please share your technique with us. I have tried cold bluing many many times but maybe I have missed something to get long lasting and durable results.

I've done the alcohol wash just prior to bluing, tried heating the gun up with a hair dryer, do use multiple coats with buffing in between coats, do wash off with water then immediately oil when done. Still wears off in short order when said gun is shot regularly. Have I missed a step or two?
 
Slow rust blueing is the best finish for the home gunsmith.
The barrels on fine double shotguns are all slow rust blued.
 
Could we see a "before" photo?

Perhaps an "after" photo as well so we may follow the project.
 
Since it's a ratty old mod 10, professional blue would cost more than it's worth. But the oxpho blue sounds good.

There's no reason to do this, there is no reason for much that I do.

But yes, I will photo document what I do.

Thanks for the info
 
I believe different steel alloys, or possibly heat treatment, will take cold blue differently. Some take it poorly, while it works much better on others. At least that has been my experience. I normally use the Oxypho blue, another one that seemed to work well was 44-40. I don’t know if it is still available. I always degrease metal with acetone or MEK before cold bluing. I have never used the bluing paste.

I once tried bluing the frame of an old H&R single shot 20 gauge, and nothing would make it take the cold blue. But the barrel of the same gun took the cold bluing very well. I once cold blued an entire S&W Model 916 12 gauge pump shotgun, and it has held up well. Not as good as a hot oxide blue job, but good enough for me. That gun was a real challenge, it was completely covered with rust when I got it. It took a lot of work to get the metal in any condition to cold blue it.

Hot oxide bluing is the best, but it is difficult to justify the high cost of the tanks and bluing salts unless you are in the business of bluing guns. I have done a lot of that also.
 
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From what I’ve seen, a cold blued gun is no improvement over the same gun with a worn original finish; looks like finger painting with dilute paint.
 
Look into express rust bluing.. it’s not difficult and the results hold up pretty well.
 
Since it's a ratty old mod 10, professional blue would cost more than it's worth. But the oxpho blue sounds good.

There's no reason to do this, there is no reason for much that I do.

But yes, I will photo document what I do.

Thanks for the info

I really think you should rethink what you are saying about value. What is it? A 10-?? They will never make another top quality well fit 10. These things are coming out of holsters never to return. Only the j frame has life in popular culture.

I don’t know your means, but a half decent restoration finished with a proper reblue has likely been earned. If it looks good, it is an $800 revolver in some parts.
 
I really think you should rethink what you are saying about value. What is it? A 10-?? They will never make another top quality well fit 10. These things are coming out of holsters never to return. Only the j frame has life in popular culture.

I don’t know your means, but a half decent restoration finished with a proper reblue has likely been earned. If it looks good, it is an $800 revolver in some parts.

I would like to see some good pictures of the gun in the condition it is now. What the O.P. considers to be bad may not be to other shooters like myself. Especially if the gun doesn’t have any rust pitting or other neglect/abuse.

Like chief38 I have also never had good long term luck with cold blue, even Brownells Oxpro Blue, and would avoid doing a entire gun
 
I'll run up some pics when I take a break. I have the blue ordered, and when I get it I will pull out some junk parts and experiment.

I think right now I'm going to take it out back and shoot some plates.

BSA1, does that name refer to the guns or the bikes?
 
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