Finish reaming K22s, or, How To Solve Difficult Extraction In .22lr S&Ws

Shot the newly reamed model 63 today with several kinds of ammo. Night and day compared to before. I literally had to either had to hit the ejector rod with a mallet or hit it on the bench to eject the rounds. Minor effort to eject. One brand (Winchester 38 grain high velocity)was a little sticky but nothing you could not do with one hand. Others hardly no effort at all. Shot several hundred rounds
 
Great thread! Makes me wish I'd kept some of the J frames I sold due to this same problem. Don't beat on the ejector rod when cases stick - it can lead to your making unwanted contributions to your local gunsmith's retirement fund (learned this from firing a cylinder of 32 H&Rs in my 16-4 after shooting a couple of boxes of 32 S&W Longs and not cleaning the chambers afterward. Doh!). Instead, use a 22 caliber cleaning rod with the blunt end jag tip and knock the cases out one at a time. Also, if you don't have an air compressor, the large cans of compressed air for cleaning computer key boards will work on small jobs. Even better are some of the automotive spray cleaners which will both blow away the chips and clean the reamer. Be sure to re-lube it before commencing work again.
 
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Well after reading 82 posts on this subject, and an hour and half later, I will be ordering the reamer. A couple years ago the local smith reamed two revolvers for me, but he has since retired. I just bought a 34-1 that has the sticky problem, so I need to get to work.
 
Money well spent on this reamer. Remember, use plenty of oil, clean the chips often, never turn the reamer backwards, and slow down and be prepared to stop when the cutter nears and finally touches the rim recess in the cylinder. Also a good idea to place empty cases, or even live rounds, in alternate chambers, to keep the extractor from turning when reaming. But then again, you know this already from the previous 81 posts. Good luck.
 
So I have a 34-1 that was professionally hard chromed back in the '70s when that was popular. It has the same extraction issues noted here. Oddly, my prewar K-22 is fine.

Would a reamer work? Chrome is harder than steel...
 
So, I went up to BROWNELLS looking for said reamer..."back ordered",
Thence to D. Manson site, and it appears they are no longer making that Reamer..??...
My K22 has eject problems..found out this morning, no way to move the Hand Ejector with fingers or hand .....slight tap with blunt end of screwdriver got them out...but not a good thing to continue....

I see there is a CLYMER finish reamer on Brownells.....a tad more then the Manson...
R
 
Not trying to beat a dead horse...but I note in Jerry K's book, page 65, Figure 65 to wit: " A chamber deleading reamer is shown at bottom left". It would seem reaming the cylinder is not without precedent.

Just sayin...
 
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If had read this thread I when it first was posted I might have got a reamer. I had an 18 and a 17, both with tight chambers. I did have several .22 mops and a block of jewelers rouge. I polished the chambers on both and then shot them. I kept this up until I did not have a problem with cases sticking in the chambers. I went slow to make sure I did not take off to much metal. Both revolvers shot great, trade the 18 for a Colt M1909 in .45 Colt (a great trade in my estimation) and still have the 17-2 (it will get passed down when I depart the pattern).
 
Clymer finish reamer arrived today. 90 minutes later the job was done, following instructions elsewhere in this thread. Range trip tomorrow.
Thanks for all the information.
R
 
Reaming K22 cylinders

Nice post, but for some, there may be an easier and cheaper way. I had the same problem with one newer k-22 and a Colt Diamondback. Took my Dewalt cordless drill and chucked an old S&W straight aluminum cleaning rod for a 4” .22 into the drill with a new bore brush attached. Wrapped the bore brush in a cotton patch and covered it with abrasive bore paste. Spin the drill at high speed once you stick the brush in the leading edge of the cylinder and polish the cylinder for a few minutes. Do this a few times as you circle the cylinder, then clean the cylinder thoroughly and range test it. Took me two go-rounds on each gun, but they eject with one finger now, instead of me using a plastic mallet to eject the empties:D
Arman
 
Wanna rent it and recoup some of the cost?
No rent necessary. Send me address particulars in Personal Message, I will send tool to you. Donate if you wish, but not necessary, on return. I used a Craftsman Tap Handle, tight fit but still had to crank down on the handle. Worked just fine. Let me know if you need the handle as well. And do you have cutting oil??
Regards, R
 
Clymer finish reamer arrived today. 90 minutes later the job was done, following instructions elsewhere in this thread. Range trip tomorrow.
Thanks for all the information.
R
Back from the Range. Ran 150 thru the piece and ejects were easy, without a hitch. 25 and 50 yard 2 hand Bench rest, piece was awesome. One handed, Bullseye, not as good, shooter has wobble typical of 80 year old shooter. oh well, so it goes.
R
 
No rent necessary. Send me address particulars in Personal Message, I will send tool to you. Donate if you wish, but not necessary, on return. I used a Craftsman Tap Handle, tight fit but still had to crank down on the handle. Worked just fine. Let me know if you need the handle as well. And do you have cutting oil??
Regards, R
I don't own a tap handle.
I don't have cutting oil either but I can get some - whatever brand you recommend for use with the tool.
PM on the way...
 
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Local gunsmith did good work. Less than $40 and my chromed 34-1 now ejects like it should. Smith said a couple of the charge holes did need some love from the reamer. The chrome didn't damage his reamer one bit (har har).
 
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