Ronzoni
US Veteran
Grease
Grease is fine on the rails but go easy. Only a light coat.
Grease is fine on the rails but go easy. Only a light coat.
Gun oil or gun grease??
- Thread starter Justin69
- Start date
Well there you go. That was easy.
I may as well throw my choice in here. I stopped using grease a long time ago unless it's a severe condition requirement.
Mobil One full synthetic oil for me.
I may as well throw my choice in here. I stopped using grease a long time ago unless it's a severe condition requirement.
Mobil One full synthetic oil for me.
I have been using Tetra Gun Grease for many years and never have a problem with it. It gets cold here in the winter (below freezing tempts) and very hot in the summer (lot of 90+ days with a good mix 100 degree ones). Tetra Gun Grease doesn't get hard in the winter and doesn't get runny in hot weather.
I get my oil for free. I simply drain the last few drops of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil into a squeeze bottle when I change the oil in my vehicles. A few small drops on the trigger and hammer pins and springs goes a long way.
The problem I have with using oil on the rails is over time it will run off making it necessary to reoil the gun if it has been stored for a while.
SCAR333
Member
I use Ballistol for all of my firearms, cleaning and lube, and have had zero problems so far. Now, that being said, I don't shoot near as much as I am sure that you guys/gals on here do, so take that for what it is worth.
ScaryWoody
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I have used many of the Lubes of the day mentioned above. My go to is CLP but I have been using 10w30 Synthetic motor oil. Works just as good as anything else and cheaper by volume. A pint will last you a lifetime.
Another vote for tetra grease here. I rub a very thin film on all the guns contact points after each cleaning. The slide on my m&p compact still looks new after about 2000 rounds.
Tetra grease is also insensitive to cold or hot temperatures. I love it.
I've read a ton of positive things about frog lube but I've never tried it.
Tetra grease is also insensitive to cold or hot temperatures. I love it.
I've read a ton of positive things about frog lube but I've never tried it.
InsideWaist
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I thought oil gets rancid (or at least loses a lot of its vicosity) after a few years.
Viscosity is lost (brokedown/breakdown) through shear forces that destroy the molecules (heat helps that process along)
Last edited:
bcarroll
Member
In the heat of the az. desert. Oil seems to migrate. So after a short time you end up with dry rails. I got tired of this. I have used white lithium grease on my subgun ar's and ak's for several years with very good results. I started useing this grease on 1911's and hi powers. With very good results! I have been useing it on my c.o.r.e. and 9c. As said above little goes along way. Very cold weather I dont think it is a good choice. But here in the hot desert? All I use on autos
Take yer pick. As long as it's lubricated you're golden. People stress way too much about what to use for lubrication. Cleaning too, for that matter.
usmcsgt
Member
Great discussion, I was using various gun greases (the flavor of the month at gun shops/range/shooting buddies). On one of my locker queen SW revolvers it sat for a year, went to the range and what ever I had used had hardened and trigger was almost impossible to pull double action. Took it apart when I got home and it was a bitch getting all the hard/dry grease off. Since then I've been real careful with grease. In fact I have paper hang tags on all my guns in the safe that tell me what product was used on them should they have an issues when I go to shoot them. For years I used military lubriplate on my rifles.
I like to use some grease on the internal parts of my revolvers when I clean them - any ideas for revolver specific -(rebound slide, yoke)? My house guns typically lay around in a drawer for a year at a time.
Thanks
Jeff
Currently using CLP for autos but it seems to not hold up to hot weather (Hawaii) and daily carry - guns alway look dry after a month or so. Gun store folks stopped using Frog grease due to issues - I also noticed if you put too much on it seems to dry and cake.
I like to use some grease on the internal parts of my revolvers when I clean them - any ideas for revolver specific -(rebound slide, yoke)? My house guns typically lay around in a drawer for a year at a time.
Thanks
Jeff
Currently using CLP for autos but it seems to not hold up to hot weather (Hawaii) and daily carry - guns alway look dry after a month or so. Gun store folks stopped using Frog grease due to issues - I also noticed if you put too much on it seems to dry and cake.
Grease can harden if left alone for a period of time. This may not apply in your case, I don't know.
The only time I use grease is on my O&U shotgun hinge & my 1187 Remington. I use the 1187 for 3 Gun matches & rapid-fire heats it up quickly! Grease does better in high temps, which is why it's used in wheel bearings & so forth.
This is the grease I use: Pro-Shot Pro-Gold Grease Lubricant 1 oz Jar # PGL-1 New! | eBay
IMO, handguns don't really need grease, just a good lube. Lucas makes a synthetic oil for guns, Autozone used to sell it. Synthetic lasts longer (won't evaporate) & has a high temp resistance.
Lucas: Lucas Gun Oil Extreme Duty 1oz Needle Oiler Made in and ships from the USA 49807108755 | eBay
For my mundane lubing, I use Break-Free CLP. It's available in a gallon jug, so I also use it to wipe down my guns for long-term storage as well.
In a pinch, good old 3-in-1 oil works for almost any gun.
My .o2
Over-kill, IMO.
A polymer pistol doesn't use full-length rails like some guns might. Frame rails on a polymer frame is pretty close to minimal if you look at them closely.
Quite honestly, the vast majority of polymer framed pistols will still run when they're bone dry. Not that this is a good idea, of course.
I don't use grease except for high-temp or high stress applications on my guns.
But we all believe we know what's best. Just ask posters which motor oil you should put in your truck?
I tried that. It formed a thick coating on the outside of the gun & literally locked up the slide when the gun is left alone for a period of time. Darn near impossible to rack the slide on a couple of mine.
Not my idea of a good product, IMO.
Gun Oil , Mineral Oil or CLP
I use LSA55 military weapons oil for lubrication. Ponsness- Warren STOS grease for shotgun hinge pins, and Kellogs Professional Products( Sandusky Ohio ) pure silicone for the exterior of my firearms
My mains are Tw25 for greasing slide rails and Balistol for oil. The only exception is on all stainless pistols I use FP-10 shooters choices due to galling.
Surplus pistols like Tokarevs that like to run wet I just use Cheap White Lithium Grease before shooting and then clean once home.
Balistol is non toxic though and thats always nice. For cleaning I use Soapy water, Rubbing Alchohol and even coconut oil for barrel cleaning. some cleaners are VERY toxic and I only use the heavier duty stuff sparingly when necessary.
Most important thing is to use SOMETHING. Most polymer pistols you can get away with shooting dry but its not ideal and there is no point in wearing out your firearms prematurely. I have used motor oil in a pinch along will lots of other oils (Including Olive Oil) because nothing else was available. As firearms enthusiasts people tend to be picky but the main thing is to use SOMETHING.
Just clean it well after shooting so things dont gum up with some oils. My uncle used boiled linseed oil on a shotgun once and that was a real mess to clean up once it hardened but Ive seen worse.
For a surface protectant Eezox or renaissance wax is king. Johnsons paste wax is also great but I heard they dont make it anymore.
Surplus pistols like Tokarevs that like to run wet I just use Cheap White Lithium Grease before shooting and then clean once home.
Balistol is non toxic though and thats always nice. For cleaning I use Soapy water, Rubbing Alchohol and even coconut oil for barrel cleaning. some cleaners are VERY toxic and I only use the heavier duty stuff sparingly when necessary.
Most important thing is to use SOMETHING. Most polymer pistols you can get away with shooting dry but its not ideal and there is no point in wearing out your firearms prematurely. I have used motor oil in a pinch along will lots of other oils (Including Olive Oil) because nothing else was available. As firearms enthusiasts people tend to be picky but the main thing is to use SOMETHING.
Just clean it well after shooting so things dont gum up with some oils. My uncle used boiled linseed oil on a shotgun once and that was a real mess to clean up once it hardened but Ive seen worse.
For a surface protectant Eezox or renaissance wax is king. Johnsons paste wax is also great but I heard they dont make it anymore.
bruce381
Member
frogsnot is a unstable and will get gummy and oxidizes over time not good. Light grease # 0 or #1 is ok other then if real cold like -10/-20F depending on type of grease will freeze up a pistol.
If using grease in cold weather use syn mobil grease #00 or 0
If using grease in cold weather use syn mobil grease #00 or 0
TW-25b temp range is listed on the box as -90F to 450F.
I dont know what Frog snot is but Im guessing you are referring to Frog Lube. Seems like one of those fancy named ones used coconut oil in it but I cant remember to be sure. Wilson had a grease as well that was basically white lithium.. or maybe it was tetra. Its hard to remember all these brands anymore.
Seems like everyone is always trying to market something as the new wonder lube for firearms. Honestly a lot of it is just hype and overkill from my experience but Ive never been stationed in the arctic. I think I went with the TW25B because thats what was best on Aluminum Frames but I cant see how plain ole white lithium Grease is any worse in basic conditions.
Ballistol is just nice because when you work on firearms a lot you you get tired of toxic chemicals on your skin so much. PLUS if you are married with children and want to stay that way it makes it a lot easier when you can tell the wife that smell is not toxic. Rem Oil can give headaches similar to what using polyurethane indoors without ventilation.
FP-10 was suggested to me long ago on Stainless firearms like AMT pistols to deal with galling on the cast stainless which could effect reliability in those pistols. The Accuteks also suffer from this along with Bauer Baby 25acps. It worked and cured a few issues I was having. If anyone has problems with AMT backup pistols give FP-10 a try.
Back in the 80s and 90s it was all Break Free CLP and I continued with that until shortly after leaving the Military. Regular Break Free is pretty hard to beat IMO but I grew to dislike the smell after the service because it seemed like it was on everything.
Mobile 1 is a heck of a gun oil and I keep a Qt in every vehicle just in case I swing by the range quick. People use to run mobile 1 in full autos sometimes in the past but I dont know what that crowd is into these days.
I dont know what Frog snot is but Im guessing you are referring to Frog Lube. Seems like one of those fancy named ones used coconut oil in it but I cant remember to be sure. Wilson had a grease as well that was basically white lithium.. or maybe it was tetra. Its hard to remember all these brands anymore.
Seems like everyone is always trying to market something as the new wonder lube for firearms. Honestly a lot of it is just hype and overkill from my experience but Ive never been stationed in the arctic. I think I went with the TW25B because thats what was best on Aluminum Frames but I cant see how plain ole white lithium Grease is any worse in basic conditions.
Ballistol is just nice because when you work on firearms a lot you you get tired of toxic chemicals on your skin so much. PLUS if you are married with children and want to stay that way it makes it a lot easier when you can tell the wife that smell is not toxic. Rem Oil can give headaches similar to what using polyurethane indoors without ventilation.
FP-10 was suggested to me long ago on Stainless firearms like AMT pistols to deal with galling on the cast stainless which could effect reliability in those pistols. The Accuteks also suffer from this along with Bauer Baby 25acps. It worked and cured a few issues I was having. If anyone has problems with AMT backup pistols give FP-10 a try.
Back in the 80s and 90s it was all Break Free CLP and I continued with that until shortly after leaving the Military. Regular Break Free is pretty hard to beat IMO but I grew to dislike the smell after the service because it seemed like it was on everything.
Mobile 1 is a heck of a gun oil and I keep a Qt in every vehicle just in case I swing by the range quick. People use to run mobile 1 in full autos sometimes in the past but I dont know what that crowd is into these days.
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