Having a problem with pre-model 10

[bgrafsr]

This morning a friend dropped off a pre-model 10 and asked me if I could clean it up and get it working for him.
Started taking the gun apart and noticed the diamond magna grips were numbered, but not to this gun. They fit good though.
Went to remove the yoke and cylinder and found the yoke was very stiff to turn down. Looked at it and saw that the yoke was turning on the yoke arbor, which is stuck fast inside the frame. Knocked the yoke off of the arbor and proceeded to disassemble the gun.
Put some lubricant on the arbor to see if it would loosen up, but no luck, so I cleaned the parts real well with acetone and used locktite to cement the yoke to the arbor. Will wait at least 24 hours before I try and get the yoke/arbor out of the gun.
Also, the screw in the front of the trigger guard will not budge either, so I lubed it well and will wait until tomorrow to try and remove it too.
Anyone have the yoke arbor frozen inside the frame, and what did you do to remove it?
Another solution if the loktite doesn't work, it to take the gun to my Cousin's machine shop and drill and pin the yoke to the arbor.

 

[armorer951]

Penetrant (Kroil) inside the empty yoke screw hole, (fill the cavity) gun secured with the muzzle down overnight. Attach a vice grip to the exposed end of the arbor, tap the pliers to remove arbor. (yoke stem)

 

[fleabus101]

Whenever I have a screw stuck like your side
plate yoke screw..I use localized heat to help it
loosen or break free. I use a simple inexpensive
soldering gun that has threaded tips for it. I insert a threaded sharp point cleaning brass tip. I use the hot heated tip to place on the screw head for one or 2 minutes w kroil around and on the screw to seep in to it. The hot tip keeps the heat right on the screw head.
Heat usually frees up most any screw/ bolt
great or small.
I havent had any damage on my blued Smiths or others helping free loose screws.
Just use krioil..soak...heatc..repeat..til it loosens up.
You can use the solder gun heat on about any
stuck part your describing here..
Hope this gets people to start thinking on
stuck parts..
Best Randy.

 

[bgrafsr]

I've been soaking the screw in the front of the trigger guard and the yoke arbor with Kroil for the past two days. No luck so far. I may leave the screw alone as the locking bolt seems to be okay. May try using the heat method, but not sure.

The yoke arbor is another matter. Still won't budge. I locktited the yoke to the arbor, but the yoke just spun on the arbor, so I will probably take the gun to the machine shop and drill a hole through the yoke and arbor and pin them together. Let them soak for a few more days and try to break the arbor free.

 

[bgrafsr]

I've been soaking the yoke arbor with Kroil for a few days now and it still won't budge. Will try some "Blue Creeper" for several days and see if that works.

 

[fleabus101]

If your concerned about the solder gun application of heat..I would advise using a heat
gun with penetrant soaks..
Or try using a hair dryer on high heat
Be careful with the vapors and electricity.
Ive used heat(torches) in my prior base job building armor vehicles and about every teardown job heat works in 95+ percent of cases to free up frozen fasteners. Been there done that .
Localized judicious application of heat is safe to use responsibly.
Yer Milege may vary...
FWIW Randy..

 

[bgrafsr]

Well, the gun has been soaking in "Blue Creeper" for a couple of weeks now, and the yoke stud is still stuck inside the frame.
I used a propane torch to heat up the yoke assembly, but didn't want to use too much heat, so that didn't work either.

Next week I'm taking it to my Cousin's machine shop. I think we will put the gun on a mill table, drill a hole through the yoke and yoke stud, and pin the two of them together.
Then I will try once again to see if I can get the stud to break loose so the yoke assembly can be removed.
If that doesn't work, I'll have to tell my friend he bought a parts gun.

 

[teletech]

Remove the barrel, mill out the offending yolk stud to a thin shell, collapse it with a punch and pull out. Fit the new yolk, replace the barrel and tel your friend he owes you big-time.
Actually, I'd start by drilling and tapping a hole in the end of it and then try using a slide-hammer to pull it out.