Help identifying a bayonet

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Found this bayonet in with a bunch of items from an estate. I have no idea what it is, by the scabbard I'm guessing American?
There is also an "H" stamped on the top rear by the locking mechanism if that helps.
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Are there any stampings on the other side of the blade?

It looks like a ten inch M1 bayonet, most likely from the end of WW2, possibly earlier.

The ones for the Korean war were quite a bit different due to the difficulty with manipulating the push button with gloves.

The scabbard, if fiberglass, is a M7 scabbard.

The UC indicates it was made by Utica Cutlery

bob
 
Well, yes, you do have to buy a Garand for it. That is just the way it works.

I have ammo I need to buy guns for, so don't feel like you are the only one that puts the accessories frst.
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Is the grip on the bayonet wood or plastic?

There were several variations of bayonets for the M-1 Garand, if you do a google search on them you should be able to narrow down which one it is. Some are quite collectible.

bob
 
The handle on mine is plastic. The scabard is made of metal with prongs that lock onto the knife. No markings on the scabard that I can see.
It's pretty cool how it locks into that scabard.

I don't know how well it will sit with the wife, her having to work over time to get a Garand to fit this, but i'll tell her that it's the right thing to do.
 
I used to have the webbed belt that the scabbard attaches to, when I was little this was my dandilion digging tool when I helped my Stepfather on side jobs to make ends meet. Mine never really had a sharp blade and was coated with an olive green color almost like a parkerized finish. Mine was my Stepfather's and he is 76, and was in the service in the 50's. The bayonet should have a locking button under the handle to lock into the scabbard, and the scabbard wire bracket locks into the webbed duty belt grommets.
 
Yes, this one is parkerized too although it doesn't appear green in the photos, it is when it has more light on it.
The scabard is a non magnetic metal, probably Aluminum? At the top of the scabard it is steel where the locking tabs are.
It would work pretty good on dandilions.
 
That bayonet is for the 1903 Springfield and the M1 Garand. There were some built earlier that were longer, but during WWII, some were cut back to the length of of the one you have there.

It appears to me that one was originally made that length and was not a cut down. You can tell by the point and the fuller.
 
What you have is a Bayonet, US, M1, 10" blade made by Utica Cutlery. Yours was made somewhere between 1943 and 1945 with a small amount manufactured in 1953 to restock supplies. Yours is a manufactured 10" blade, not a cut down from an pre, during or post WWI (produced 1906 - 1922), or WWII (1942 to 1943 produced) 1905. The scabbard should be marked on the side of the throat "U.S. M7". Your scabbard is made of fiberglass and steel, correct for your bayonet. You say the scales are made of plastic, they are actually bakelite, a fragile form of plastic. Brown was the early short lived color and black was the later color. In the condition that yours is shown ARV is around $75-$125 in my market. If the scales are brown with no damage they can go as high as $100.00 plus the price of the bayonet. To bad you did not find one of the pre WWI early 1905 16" bladed bayonets with wooden scales. In excellent original condition with the correct scabbard they can go as high as $1000.00 on a good day. Even better would be a post WWI 1905 made between 1919 and 1922 with wooden scales. The blade will be marked with the year of manufacture and have a serial number for all WWI and pre WWII manufactured 1905 bayonets with 16" blades and cut down 10" blades. WWII M1905's with 16" and cut down 10" blades will have a year of manufacture but no serial number. They go for up to $1500.00. Or a 1905 that was been cut down to the U.S. M1 10" length with a Bowie knife point, not a spear point as yours is, can go as high as $400.00 sans scabbard. All pre WWII 1905 bayonets were manufactured by SA or RIA. WWII manufatured 1905's were made by Utica Cutlery, Oneida Limited, Wilde Drop Forge and Tool, Pal Blade and Tool, American Fork and Hoe and Union Fork and Hoe. M1 10" versions such as yours where made by American Fork and Hoe, Oneida Limited, Union Fork and Hoe, Pal Blade and Tool and Utica Cutlery.

Hope this helps. And tell the wife to start the overtime to get you that "New to You" M1. Tell her you want one made by a tractor company.

Class III
 
Sir, that's an M1 bayonet and cut-down M3 scabbard. The M1 bayonet was adapted from the 16-inch M1905 bayonet designed for the '03 Springfield. It fits both fits the M1 Garand and '03. The chief differences between the M1 and M1905 are blade length, scale (handle) material, finish, and markings. M1905s were originally blued with the 16-inch blade itself left bright, though some originals had blued blades. The M1 bayonet was parkerized from the git-go and had a 10-inch blade.

The "UC" on your bayonet stands for Utica Cutlery, which made many of these during WWII. I'd guess yours was made in 1943 or later, most likely 1944 or '45. Some of the 1943 blades have the year of manufacture stamped on the blade, but not all. The blade-dated bayonets are of considerable interest to collectors.

The M3 scabbard was originally made to fit the 16-inch M1905 blade, and many were cut down to fit the later 10-inch M1. The purpose-built 10-inch scabbard was the M7. The body of the M3 and M7 scabbards was most often fiberglass, the throat and belt hanger being parkerized steel. On a scabbard that's been around the block a time or two, it's not unusual to see the metal parts painted over with OD green paint. It's not original or correct, though.

The scales of your bayonet are made of bakelite, an early form of plastic. Most often, these are black like yours, though some reddish-brown ones were made early in WWII. The red ones are somewhat rare. The old M1905s originally came with wood scales, though many were rebuilt later with bakelite scales and a parkerized finish.

Also, some new production M1905s were made early in WWII. Collectors sometimes call these M1905/1942 or some variation thereof. They retain the 16-inch blade of the original M1905, but came with bakelite scales, parkerized finish, and generally lower level of fit and finish than the pre-war M1905s. The pre-war M1905s typically were serial numbered on the blade, whereas the M1905/1942s were not.

During WWII, the 16-inch blade was dropped in favor of the 10-inch blade. The shorter blade required less steel to make, was less likely to break in service, weighed less, and was handier for the soldier. Many 16-inchers were cut down to 10 inches, with a variety of point shapes. These are easy to identify in that the fuller ("blood groove") runs all the way to the tip, whereas a purpose-built M1's fuller stops a couple inches back from the tip. Collectors today often call the cut-down M1905s "M1905E1s"; however, back in the day, the military made no distinction between M1s and cut-down M1905s, simply calling them all M1s.

So anyway, you have a WWII bayonet there for the M1 rifle. It was originally made with the 10-inch blade, though your scabbard is a cut-down. Many, many of them were made just like it, so it doesn't have huge collector value, but it's still a bona fide artifact from WWII. Was it me, I wouldn't dig any more weeds with it.
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Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
Were these bayonets sharp like a knife when issued, or was it up to the soldier to put an edge on it? Mine had the parkerized finish on the edge but was never sharp enough to cut anything. Were there some issued unsharpened for ceremonies, and parades?
 
I believe bayonets of that era were issued in the same condition as sabers of an earlier era. The point will be sharp but most of the blade dull.
 
Wow vrichard, that is an impressive display / collection.
On the bottom photo, what kind is the top one that has the Acorn displayed on the handle and the sheath?

And thank you for your service in WWII Sir.
 
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