Help with Muzzle Break/Flash Supressor

rbpwrd240

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Howdy,

This is my first post as I am now the new owner of a used M&P 15-22. I know its been threw two owners both claim to have used the rifle very little but I noticed that the flash suppresor isnt on correctly.

The suppressor is only vented on three quarters of the suppresor. I imagine the not vented side is supposed to be pointed at the ground but on my gun it is on the side of the barrel not on the bottom. Can anyone give me an idea on how to fix this?

Thanks in advance.
 
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A wrench in the towel[emoji14]


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Not sure exactly what you mean but I have already removed the bugger a half a dozen times and everytime it goes back on the same way. The muzzle break has a washer behind it that has a flaired end and a flat end the flaired end is toward the rifle but I tried rotating it just to be sure. This didnt help either.

I would love to know how to fix this problem.

Am I missing a washer or do I have the wrong washer?
 
I hate spellcheck[emoji35]!!

What you have on your rifle right now is a crush washer, you want to change that out for a peel washer and it's possible that the threading is out of spec "rifle or flash hider" either way changing the washer will fix your problem.
 
The original was changed. To what you have now. The original fh should be the full birdcage style, doesn't make a difference what you use, but you need to replace the crush washer. Crush washers are a one time use hardware. To do so, you need the correct tools to do so. These are not like the ar-15 msr's. You need to use a barrel vise so you do not destroy your rifle. Tacticool22 sells them.
 
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Thanks,

Thats the info I needed. I will be getting a peel washer t straighten out the alignment of the flash hider.

Thanks again!!!
 
The original was changed. To what you have now. The original fh should be the full birdcage style, doesn't make a difference what you use, but you need to replace the crush washer. Crush washers are a one time use hardware. To do so, you need the correct tools to do so. These are not like the ar-15 msr's. You need to use a barrel vise so you do not destroy your rifle. Tacticool22 sells them.

^^ this ^^

Properly installing the FH with a new crush washer is the fix.
 
What you have sounds like an A2 flash hider.

To properly time an A2 on a 1522 will require the purchase of a $3 crush washer and a barrel vise. It can require a fair amount of torque if you have to go nearly a full turn. Barrel can turn in the vise and mar it.

A peel washer is an option. Cost $3. IMO they are not worth the trouble fooling with.

An A1 flash hider has slots all around. A1 costs $5 and can be put on without any fuss.

Of the three above options, I'd go with an A1.
 
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To do so, you need the correct tools to do so. These are not like the ar-15 msr's. You need to use a barrel vise so you do not destroy your rifle. Tacticool22 sells them.

Read this multiple times, then implement. If you don't properly secure your rifle, you will literally destroy it since it's a polymer rifle. This is no joke. Without properly securing the rifle in a vice, the rifle can not and will not withstand the amount of torque necessary to properly seat the flash hinder.

I can only hope it was done properly in the first place or your rifle may already be busted. Have you fired it yet?
 
Im not sure why you guys buy barrel vices?

A couple blocks of wood with a hole drilled a couple sizes smaller then the barrel in a vice works fine...

In my case I was able to remove the muzzle break with a pair of vice grips with a towel folded twice under them and a crescent wrench on the flahs hider. No torque was applied to any plastic piece of the rifle.

I put the strain between the two wrenches not on the plastic parts of the barrel. Maybe there is just alot of kids around here that dont know anything messing up there guns that has caused this mass warning to be preached?

The A1 sunds like an easy quick fix I will definitly be looking at that as an option. However once I order the slide fire kit the whole thing becomes mute.

Will the cage being out of alignment hurt performance in the mean time?

Thanks again.
 
Im not sure why you guys buy barrel vices?

The A1 sunds like an easy quick fix I will definitly be looking at that as an option. However once I order the slide fire kit the whole thing becomes mute.

Will the cage being out of alignment hurt performance in the mean time?
I've never used a barrel vise on mine, either. Always came up with a different idea.

A suppressor is the only way to make it mute...although a slide fire kit may make it moot. ;)

The only "issue" will be if you're sniping something in a prone position over a loose surface like sand or maybe a bed of confetti. :D
 
Kinda like someone asking why you want a slidefire. There are all sorts of options of things we can purchase for our guns. Normally not a good idea to question why someone does what they do.

Im just saying not one or two but three people recomending a barrel vice that cost's $$ although I hope not much and a delay due to shipping time. When the tool could easily be made in your garage with spare items you have laying around.

I dont think I can make a slide fire kit in my garage. I dont have a laith. LOL But I guess if thats what you want to spend money on then who am I to tell you no. PLus leaves a little more ammo out there for me to get to.

Im not trying to be rude but maybe I am pushing back on the concept that this is a difficult a tricky process which requires the purchase of someones home made invention that they now sell to the masses. It is very easy to remove the cage and to hold the barrel in place with just simple ingenuity.

Now dont let my rock the boat attitude sulley anyones opinion of me as I am just looking out for the next guy that reads this during his google search and hopefully he realizes he doesnt need the specialty tools just a little common sense and some desire.

(I checked Tacticool wants nearly $45,00 +S/H for a tool you can make for free at home to me that's rediculous)
 
I've never used a barrel vise on mine, either. Always came up with a different idea.

A suppressor is the only way to make it mute...although a slide fire kit may make it moot. ;)

The only "issue" will be if you're sniping something in a prone position over a loose surface like sand or maybe a bed of confetti. :D


LOL Nicely put
 
Welcome FH is fine where it is at. You do not need any washers, FH's since you will be putting the slide-fire and it works best with all the back pressure you can get off a 22lr. You are a new member/ new to all of us and we do not know your skill level and therefore want to make sure that you do not damage your gun. I use my Rott, stick it in his mouth. break it free then try to get him to give it back. So sometimes you may get multiple solutions to the same problem/question. Check out ( in search function) bull pup 15-22, incredible work done by a member, while some others like myself have my gunsmith on speed dial!! Welcome/Enjoy. Be Safe,
 
Im not sure why you guys buy barrel vices?

A couple blocks of wood with a hole drilled a couple sizes smaller then the barrel in a vice works fine...

In my case I was able to remove the muzzle break with a pair of vice grips with a towel folded twice under them and a crescent wrench on the flahs hider. No torque was applied to any plastic piece of the rifle.

I put the strain between the two wrenches not on the plastic parts of the barrel. Maybe there is just alot of kids around here that dont know anything messing up there guns that has caused this mass warning to be preached?

I'm preaching it because so many people have ruined their weapons. I have built my own ARs so I'm more than confident with working on weapons. I've seen people destroy their weapons so if they're not aware of the fact that they can't just go cranking on their weapon, then my guess is they don't have the foresight or know-how to improvise a different device.
 
Im just saying not one or two but three people recomending a barrel vice that cost's $$ although I hope not much and a delay due to shipping time. When the tool could easily be made in your garage with spare items you have laying around.
Only point the fine folks around here are trying to make is use a vise & don't damage the polymer upper. I always tell folks to use a vise & normally recommend Tacticool. The individual can make one or purchase one, makes no difference to me. I just don't want folks damaging their rifle.

But I guess if thats what you want to spend money on then who am I to tell you no. PLus leaves a little more ammo out there for me to get to.

Actually no. My purchase of the vise doesn't impact my ability to find or purchase ammo. I have another case of 5000 coming in Monday.

Im not trying to be rude but ...

(I checked Tacticool wants nearly $45,00 +S/H for a tool you can make for free at home to me that's rediculous)

Sorry, but you are being rude. Tacticool has supported this site and its members for years. He offers quality product for those that choose to buy, rather than make themselves.

My suggestion to you is to quit questioning why folks do what they do & quit judging others decisions. We have spouses for that.
 
The A2 flash suppressor, not a muzzle brake, (note the correct spelling) is designed with a missing slot so that when it is at the 6:00 position, dust will not be kicked up as badly when the 5.56mm rifle is fired. It's really useless for a .22 LR rifle, as there is little muzzle blast. I'd take it off and put on an A1 suppressor; the position of the slots is immaterial. Muzzle brakes are designed to harness the gases from the muzzle to force the barrel down against recoil or upthrust. The design of the muzzle device on M16 series is simply for flash suppression. It does not function as muzzle brake in any manner.

John
 
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The reason you'll hear folks recommend a barrel vise is to make sure you know that you can't simply use a receiver vise block like with an AR when timing a muzzle device with a crush washer. Unlike an AR, it's likely you'll spin the barrel in the plastic receiver and damage it. Since you are here asking how to do something quite rudimentary, it would indicate you have no knowledge of anything of the process. With that in mind, the folks here have kindly replied in an effort to help.

I swap around muzzle devices and cans all the time between my 1522 and other guns. Never used a barrel vise or anything to secure the barrel, just hand tighten. On the other hand, I'm not trying to time anything like a useless A2 flash hider on a 1522.

Whether you purchase a barrel vise, make one or otherwise improvise... no matter.

There's a wealth of information among the membership here as well as good cheer.

Welcome to the Forum.
 
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