rednichols
Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2012
- Messages
- 2,745
- Reaction score
- 8,484
Lots of copies of the Brill out there, but none are exact replicas. That's because it's not a matter of giving an artist's rendition of a photo the maker saw once on the 'net, to replicate a Brill. Not least because there were two Brill 'eras'.
These pics show how to accurately reproduce a late-model (that is, post 1932 as imagined by its original creator, N.J. Rabensburg). To build an early-model Brill (that is, prior to 1932) one would need a different set of instructions.
Step one: buy a late-model Brill for at least a 4" DA revolver; a short-barrelled DA revolver (they're a very different design); a 4-3/4" SAA; and a 1911 (Rangers used the 38 Super auto version).
Step two: 'explode' them into what are called 'provenance patterns' from the leather pieces; so-called because they are your evidence (even for your own review) that they are original: the cardboard is glued to the leather, then cut to match without changes. This one is a Sessums (leather on the other side):

Step three: you'll need a pattern-driven chain stitch machine for the muzzle lip, chain stitch visible on the backside (see Step four image).
Step four: you'll need a thin vegetable tanned leather for the half or full lining, with a hard finish. Kangaroo is ideal, very likely Rabensburg used goatskin in 1 mm thickness.

Step five: note the comments on the images that follow.



Note: perfectly acceptable to use no logo on the cuff; or initials. Using the Brill stamp, though, is called 'passing off': sometimes illegal, always wrong.
Note 2: everyone has spotted the obvious 'trademark' methodology used for Brill basket stamping on both early and late Brills; no need to explain it here. There are no known 'plain' genuine Brills (although there were 6 other companies that made them under their own name, including Myres, and included plain finish).
These pics show how to accurately reproduce a late-model (that is, post 1932 as imagined by its original creator, N.J. Rabensburg). To build an early-model Brill (that is, prior to 1932) one would need a different set of instructions.
Step one: buy a late-model Brill for at least a 4" DA revolver; a short-barrelled DA revolver (they're a very different design); a 4-3/4" SAA; and a 1911 (Rangers used the 38 Super auto version).
Step two: 'explode' them into what are called 'provenance patterns' from the leather pieces; so-called because they are your evidence (even for your own review) that they are original: the cardboard is glued to the leather, then cut to match without changes. This one is a Sessums (leather on the other side):

Step three: you'll need a pattern-driven chain stitch machine for the muzzle lip, chain stitch visible on the backside (see Step four image).
Step four: you'll need a thin vegetable tanned leather for the half or full lining, with a hard finish. Kangaroo is ideal, very likely Rabensburg used goatskin in 1 mm thickness.

Step five: note the comments on the images that follow.



Note: perfectly acceptable to use no logo on the cuff; or initials. Using the Brill stamp, though, is called 'passing off': sometimes illegal, always wrong.
Note 2: everyone has spotted the obvious 'trademark' methodology used for Brill basket stamping on both early and late Brills; no need to explain it here. There are no known 'plain' genuine Brills (although there were 6 other companies that made them under their own name, including Myres, and included plain finish).
Last edited: