Huge mistake with new 57!!

The solution is not to buy any blued S&W since the era of the lock started. If the customers react in a way that cuts their profits then they will consider a more robust alternative.
 
I don't care about the loc. My new s&w revolvers feel the same as my older revolvers. The actions feel the same. It's still the same s&w quality.

Yup once the revolver sales drop they could stop manufacturing them and just sell pistols.
This has started already with some models not in production today. We lose not s&w.

Colt offers nothing in DA revolvers. Ruger offers nothing in larger caliber revolvers so we're going to hurt the only gun manufacturer who still offers the revolver line up and still offers the classics. If we lose what s&w offers today in all there REVOLVERS that would be a very sad day. I have autos but I'd rather shoot my revolvers loc or no loc. If we didn't purchase a new s&w what brand of "revolver" would you purchase that's still made in the USA?

With a 100% lifetime warranty?

Ya let's hurt s&w that's a great idea? "NOT"
 
Last edited:
If (and I say if because it has yet to be specifically determined/verified what the exact cause of the bluing loss is) the current bluing method is not holding up, it's not the same S&W quality.

100% lifetime warranty... yeah right.

Tell that to the owners of out of production S&W products (which includes me) with the so called "lifetime" warranty, that cannot get issues addressed due to parts no longer being available, as in the situation with 3rd Generation pistols.

Ruger offers nothing in larger caliber revolvers? I guess the DA Redhawk revolvers in .44 Magnum and .454 Casull doesn't qualify?

I'm sorry... but if S&W stops producing revolvers because of a sales slump resulting from consumers voting with their wallets because they are unhappy with what S&W is producing, then it's shame on S&W... not on the consumer, for not wanting to acquiesce for something less because it's better than nothing.

If the issue is related to having to comply with a new EPA regulation regarding bluing salt composition or process, then S&W is not alone, and we should start to or be seeing the same issues taking place with the other US gun manufacturers... if not, then S&W needs to go ask them how they are managing to pull off.
 
Two, "2" rugers offered. How many s&w?

If you're just limiting yourself to USA made DA revolvers... I didn't mention any Ruger SA revolvers. Two is more than "nothing".

Look... all I'm saying is there are other viable revolvers in the market place, and despite being bad mouthed here a lot because it's an S&W forum, Taurus can not be denied as a threat to S&W.

And S&W must have also view it that way too, coming out with the "Governor" after the Taurus "Judge" was out.

I love my S&W's, but my gun buying universe doesn't revolve (no pun intended... but not bad either :rolleyes:) around them to the point of willing to accept something like a tired and true, common as dirt gun cleaner, having an affect like it did on a new gun as the OP reported... as a result of a possible change in the bluing process.

I'm not willing to blow something shy of grand on a blued revolver if a $3-5 bottle of gun cleaner will do it in.

A stainless Model 69... now that's a different story. If and when they get approved for sale in CA... I'm camping out on someone's door step waiting for the doors to open.
 
I don't think it is the bluing process but the funky alloy they are using to manufacture the cylinder and barrel. It doesn't accept the standard blueing process, so it has some type of surface coating. Which might be alright if S&W would have told us they were no longer using carbon steel like the guns we have bought for years.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
 
Using an in the pants holster I noticed the body sweat can tarnish stainless and nickel plating during the hotter months of ccw carry. This means no finish is safe or better than the other. I do prefer a epoxy painted pistol during the extreme hot weather carry.

I just repaired a tiny spot of surface rust on my new/used never shot s&w 29-10. My process of using cold bluing blended in perfectly. You can hardley see it. I believe it was there when I purchased it for $699 with the presentation case.
 
Last edited:
Ok we need to know an answer on this?

Is it the solvent?

Is it a change in the bluing process?

I just retired 10 years ago from one of the top ten engineering groups in the world. Worked in the world headquarters engineering lab. We did R&D ne product development, life testing, accident investigations. We also did outside vendors product testing for reliability.
My point is I'm sure s&w has an r&d lab and your solvent manufacturer has a test lab too. There probably not talking when I think they should be?
I think if they did talk together then we would be better advised on what solvent to use? What solvents not to use?
 
After reading this thread, you guys have me spooked! I used our beloved Hoppe's #9 the first couple of times I cleaned my 442, but after reading some of the horror stories of what the solvent might do to alloy frames I switched to M-Pro 7 (good stuff BTW). The last time I cleaned my revolver I noticed some wear on the front of the cylinder where the charge holes line up with the forcing cone. I thought it was normal wear after 500+ rounds. Now I'm wondering if this has something to do with the "new" S&W finishing practices? See the pic below:

image.jpg
 
I think you'll find that those are lead deposits rather than wear. If you get a lead removal cloth and work the front of the cylinder, that should come off
 
Thanks Dave, and that's what I initially thought too. Upon closer inspection it looks like bare metal. According to S&W, the cylinder is "blued carbon steel." The outside of the cylinder is rock solid, but it looks like the individual charging holes are in fact blued, which is why I think it could be related to S&W's new bluing practices. It has a manufacturing date of Feb. 2014 and I'm wondering if the bluing has simply come off in those areas. Obviously this is my EDC and I'm not too worried about it cosmetically, but I am keeping an eye out for corrosion at this point.
 
Careful with the lead removal cloth. Years ago, the package warned not to use them on blued guns. With the apparent fragility of S&W's new blue process, I'd be wary.
 
I'm glad this thread was posted. I'm looking to buy a new revolver soon, and I was considering a blued finish, but I see stainless or nickel as my only options now.
 
Thanks for the tip Krogen! As I mentioned above, I don't think it's lead fouling as it looks like bare metal around the perimeter of the charging holes. I'm thinking about using a q-tip and some cold bluing to touch them up. Any idea if doing this might void my warranty?
 
I don't think it is the bluing process but the funky alloy they are using to manufacture the cylinder and barrel. It doesn't accept the standard blueing process, so it has some type of surface coating. Which might be alright if S&W would have told us they were no longer using carbon steel like the guns we have bought for years.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

Huh? S&W has an obligation to tell "us" all of their metallurgy changes? Exactly what "funky alloy" do you think they have begun using? And where do you come up with this information?
 
JH, thanks for posting the picture of the front of your cylinder. That is what mine looked like but even worse. When I first noticed it, I thought it was merely lead but my cleaning cloth had blue on it. In disbelief I wiped the end of the cylinder one more time lightly and just about all of the "bluing" came off.
 
Shawn, read post #24. My son and I have parkerized quite a few older S&W revolvers and 1911's.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
 
I've never heard of a bluing process like that?????44/40? Real bluing is actually a rusting process.
Steve
 
Back
Top