I need some 32-20 5 screw advice

[M5741]

I received the spring kit from Wolf. I replaced the trigger return spring in the revolver, with the 12# spring in the kit. That alone made cocking the hammer back so much easier. The new main spring in the kit did not work. When pulling the trigger double action, the spring would come unhooked from the sturrip. I may check and see if I can find a different main spring.
Question about bullet weight: I know that heavier weight bullets have different POI than lighter weights. They will generally hit higher because of the dwell time in the barrel from lower velocities. Seeing as how this revolver will only be poking holes in paper, I would like for it to hit as close to POA as possible. I drove up to T&B bullets today and bought 100 .313 78 grain rn, and 100, 100 grain rnfp .313 bullets. If I receive my brass tomorrow, I will load up a few of each weight bullet to try out
and see which one shoot the tightest group, and the closest to POA. Anyone have any feedback as to which bullets shoot best for them in their 32-20 revolvers???

 

[Brooks]

I recommend 115gr .314
My 1908 32-20 HE has .314 throats and .314 groove diameter.
I like the heavy bullets the best.

 

[M5741]

Is the POI of that bullet, the same as your POA???

 

[Brooks]

Yes, but I have filed the front sight down a touch a few years ago.

 

[M5741]

Ok, thank you Brooks.

 

[Igiveup]

Brooks, thank you for the chart.
M5471, where is T&B bullets located? Wonder if they are the same outfit that sponsored the Central Point gunshow a couple weeks ago. I bought a bag of 32=20 ammo from them but haven't tried it yet.

 

[M5741]

Thank you for the load data as well.
I slugged the bore of my revolver. With the 5 lands and grooves, it's kind of tricky (for me at least) to get a proper measurement. I don't have a v-type accessory to use. I used dial calipers to measure the T&B bullets I bought yesterday. They ARE .313 diameter, and just slide through the cylinder throats under their own weight. I would prefer that they were .314. If they don't shoot well, I will try putting another layer of powder coat on them and size to .314. I believe .314 would fit well down the bore as well.
Jack

 

[Brooks]

The .313 bullets.......Shoot-em. And then buy more!

 

[M5741]

Yes, I will do that. My 100 bag Starline brass came this afternoon. Looks like I'll be putting together some test rounds shortly.

 

[M5741]

Oh by the way, The Albany Rifle Pistol show starts this Saturday March 1st, and ends Sunday the 2nd. Right here in Albany Oregon. One of the best gun shows in the PNW. EVERYONE IS WELCOME. None members,10.00 entrance fee.
Jack

 

[Brooks]

I started loading 32-20 37 years ago. Come to find out right here on this forum there are a few others that have been loading this round for maybe 40-50 years. They all have good info if you should have problems.
I like Oregon. Parents and grandparents born in Coos Bay and Bend. Sister lives in Albany.
Your revolver is a heat treated one. Mine from 1908 is not.

 

[M5741]

Thank you Brooks.
This past couple days, I've loaded up 75 rounds for this revolver. Looks like good weather tomorrow, so I'll be head'n to the gun club see how the old girl shoots. I loaded with three powders, HP-38, Unique and CFE Pistol. I used the 78 grain rn, and the 100 grain rnfp. Looking forward to see how she shoots.
Jack

 

[Truckman]

I loaded with three powders, HP-38, Unique and CFE Pistol.

I've used the first two but the third is a newcomer to me...HP-38 always metered well for me...If I was a betting man, I would bet on HP-38 and the 100 grain projectile for tightest group...Let us know......Ben

 

[Muley Gil]

A charge of 4.5 grains of Unique under a 100-120 grain bullet has always worked well for me.

IIRC, I bought my first .32-20 S&W in '74-'75 and started reloading the round then. That puts me in the 50-year era, I reckon.

 

[Truckman]

I bought my first .32-20 S&W in '74-'75 and started reloading the round then. That puts me in the 50-year era, I reckon.

Why am I hanging around with you old dudes?...And who is the white haired geek in my mirror?...

Oops!...Never mind......Ben

 

[rct269]

I understand what you're saying Ralph, but I also repeated the procedure with the side plate back on. No difference at all.

He's talking about cycling the action with the sideplate off---leaving the hammer and trigger studs unsupported---and noting no difference------after I'd cautioned against that practice-----lest the Gun Gods strike you down!

The only thing you're going to notice IF/WHEN the Gun Gods strike you down is it feels different somehow. It still seems to work----sort of----just feels different----somethin' ain't right!! The reason it feels different is one or the other (or both) of those studs are bent----as in no longer perpendicular to the frame. This is one of those things folks call BAD NEWS!!

Now it's your gun, and you can do as you please; but I feel sorry for folks who get the wrong end of the stick when it could've been avoided.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[M5741]

Ralph, I definately agree with you on the action feeling different with the side plate on, or with it off. What I was meaning to convey, was that the hammer pull was just as hard with or without the side plate on. It only stands to reason that a stud unsupported will be weaker than a supported stud. Hope this clarifies for you.
I wanted to try the CFE Pistol powder because of its metering qualities, and it being slower than the Unique. I was using my Little Dandy powder measure. I charged 25 cases with the Unique. When giving a visual check for light heavy powder drops, I found 3 cases with about a .6 lighter weight charge. The CFE Pistol powder measures as good as HP-38. The only issue may be that the powder may be to slow to burn efficiently with the lighter low pressure load. If it doesn't burn clean enough, I may buy some BE-86 to replace the Unique powder. I will post the results of the range time and reloads.

 

[M5741]

As my previous post stated, I made it to the range today for some testing with my 32-20 5 screw. The weather was beautiful. Bright and sunny at 63°. I haven't used this excuse for my fliers in a long while, so here it comes. I was shooting into the sun, and the glare bouncing off of the top of the rear groove and front sight, it was hard to get a good sight picture. Okaaa!!
Targets were 15 yards.
First load was 4.7 grains of Unique and a 78 grain rn coated. 13 shots fired. 10 shots in 1.5 x 2". The group was 2" low and 2" to the left of center "POA"
Second load. 4.7 grains of Unique and a 100 grain coated rnfp. 14 shots fired. 12 shots 2" x 3.75". 1" left of center, " POA".
3rd load. 3.5 grains of HP-38 with the 78 grain rn. 13 shots fired. 10 shots 2" x 2.25". 2" low and centered.
4th load. 3.5 grains of HP-38. 100 grain rnfp coated. 11 shots fired. 9 shots dead center "POA" 1.125 x 2". This is the best load so far.
5th load. 5.1 grains of CFE Pistol. 100 grain rnfp. 25 shots fired. Centered "POA". 2.5" x 3.625". Second best load.
Going to load up some more rounds, and drop the powder charge down with the CFE Pistol. I will chrony the next loads. Going to try to stay between 850-900 fps. Good shooting to all.
Jack

 

[M5741]

Oh, by the way. The T&B bullets did not lead the bore at all. The Unique powder left a little unburnt powder and residue in the bore. The CFE Pistol powder burned very clean, and left no residue in the bore.
Jack

 

[Truckman]

If I was a betting man, I would bet on HP-38 and the 100 grain projectile for tightest group...

4th load. 3.5 grains of HP-38. 100 grain rnfp coated. 11 shots fired. 9 shots dead center "POA" 1.125 x 2". This is the best load so far.

Hey, I guessed right!...And it's only been 27 years since I reloaded anything!......Ben