Inherited an introduction #19 357 Mag

[bgrafsr]

Someone with a small lathe and the right knurling attachment can redo the knurling the tip of your rod, BTW

More important is how does it shoot?

I have a South Bend lathe and have done a few knurling jobs on extractor rods. My knurling tool is a little coarser than what was used on Smith's rods, but they still look nice.

 

[steelslaver]

I have a small tool with 3 sets of knurling wheels. The one set is pretty close. Plus, knurling does not remove metal just displaces it. I made a snub K frame a couple years ago and just cut down a regular rod and pin and knurled the tip. Unless you really know what to look for you wouldn't know.

 

[Doc44]

The serial number indicates your Combat Magnum was shipped sometime in 1959 (late spring to early summer I would guess). I assume it is stamped MOD-19 in the yoke cut.

Bill

 

[Hair Trigger]

I wouldn't change a thing on that revolver, just clean it up and, if it functions properly, shoot it if you want. Every nick and scratch are part of its history, and you have a first-series of one of the most desirable S&W revolvers. If you were to change the extractor for one with left hand threads, you've technically made it a dash-1, since that was the only change made on the original that made it a different series.

 

[AtTheRange]

The serial number indicates your Combat Magnum was shipped sometime in 1959 (late spring to early summer I would guess). I assume it is stamped MOD-19 in the yoke cut.

Bill

You assume correctly.

 

[AtTheRange]

According to SCSW #4 your serial # is mid to late 1958 production.

Interesting you mention #4 There's a big 4 stamped into the yoke itself; along with smaller numbers 88608

 

[tlawler]

I agree with Hair Trigger and everyone else who says keep it like it is. Not only is it a piece of history unrestored, it's history attached to a friend. You can always find a better condition Model 19 for less than you would pay to restore it to like new condition, but it's still just a Model 19 that's not going to give you a warm and fuzzy handling it like the one your friend gave you.

 

[minconrevo]

Stray numbers and shapes are stamped here and there on the crane interior as well as under the grips. Most don't mean anything to us as they were factory marks that made sense to someone(s) inside those walls. A big N or a RB do tell that the gun left the factory nickeled or has been reblued at the factory. Those designations vary with time.

OP if I'm reading your comments correctly the buggered up ejector rod bothers you. If it bugs you enough replace it with the RH thread rod I previously mentioned, assuming that the revolver is still in that configuration as I imagine it to be. Another poster mentioned reknurling as a potential.

You may find that overall a visit with a competent S&W revolversmith is your best course of action. They can tell you a lot from a quick assessment.

 

[Muley Gil]

Interesting you mention #4 There's a big 4 stamped into the yoke itself; along with smaller numbers 88608

Welcome to the Forum.

SCSW #4 refers to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, 4th edition, which is the bible for S&W collectors. I believe you can buy it on Amazon.

 

[AtTheRange]

If the cylinder is locking up just before the hammer releases in double action it is good. Wouldn't take much more and trigger would bind before it released the hammer. The difference enough and to much is slight. I would check for end shake before doing any action work. How much does the cylinder move forward and back? If there is a significant amount as the gun is cocked the cylinder moves forward and farther from the hand so it can slide by the ratchet tooth quicker. A cylinder shim or 2 may be all it needs. If the the cylinder stop is engaging the cylinder and preventing it from turning it is fine. Some small amount of movement while in lock up is also acceptable. As the bullet leaves the chamber throat and enters the forcing cone it brings the chamber into perfect alignment. If there is excess movement it comes from peening in the cylinder stop notches (usually the far side, not the lead in side, as it stops the cylinder rotation). This can be peened back into place. It could also be slop of the cylinder stop in its frame slot.

But, don't go putting parts in it until it has been checked by someone who really works on S&W revolvers. Your post gives no information on your experience with them. Your thought of just replacing the extractor tells me you haven't got much as extractors very seldom work on cylinders they were not made with. Until the recent pinless design change the extractor and cylinder were match drilled as a set during assembly. The holes in one extractor star very seldom line up right on a different cylinder. Even a tiny bit of difference and it hangs up. I have had zero luck at it and I have a drawer full of various cylinders. There is a couple work around, but it isn't that easy. Someone with a small lathe and the right knurling attachment can redo the knurling the tip of your rod, BTW

More important is how does it shoot?

Thank you for all that input. This is exactly what I'm looking for. And you're right, I don't have a lot of experience with this ....yet.


My HOG chapter did 'A Night at the Range' event last November and my friend offered to let me take/shoot this weapon and his semi automatic S&W #39-2 made `75 -`76. The only stipulation was that I would be responsible for cleaning them. What he didn't tell me was neither weapon had been cleaned in over 10 years! So, they both went to the range dirty. The revolver fired OK but, I could tell it wasn't moving 'right' and the semi failed to completely eject the casing (twice) and jammed. I used YouTube to learn how to disassemble and clean these (BTW, you watch enough videos and you figure who knows their stuff and who the goobers are). It was only then I realized how dirty they were and thought "no way they got this bad with just 'one' trip to the range." So, I called my friend and asked " Bob, WHEN were these last cleaned?" He paused and said "Well, it wasn't this decade.".... I wanted to smack him!


His motivations were three fold:
1. He knew I'd been on the fence about owning a handgun for years and he wanted to knock me off that fence.
2. He knew he wanted me to have these guns when he died so, he wanted me to start getting some experience with them.
3. He knew my skill set and had every faith I would figure out 'how' and clean them right. I.E. he got free cleanings out of the deal. BTW I also inherited his 70s vintage gun cleaning kit. But I had already restocked the cleaning pads and cleaning fluid (that bottle had evaporated).


The end shake is so small, a single .002" shim would bind it. The stop notches look fine. I just checked the operation again and based on your input, this is OK to fire. It's going to the range tomorrow. I'll have it looked at by a professional when I find one I can trust. My go-to guy passed away on Jul 3.
I'm beginning to believe the term "Hindsight is 2020" was coined by a future time traveler and has been a message we've misunderstood.

 

[AtTheRange]

RE: The damaged ejector rod

Looks like a reasonably well cared for older pre 19. The gunk in the cylinders in almost certainly residue from .38 Specials. Use a tight fitting brass core brass brush (gun specific) to clean. Maybe soaking the cylinder inside with some Kroil or a lead specific gun cleaner to loosen the gunk first.

If the cylinder stop is still working well leave it alone.

The mashed up knurling on the ejector rod is from using an improper tool to attempt removal. Brownells sells a special tool to remove these. You may need to call their customer service for the part number. My advice is get the special tool. Lacking tha,t a padded drill chunk might work. Based on your manufacture date, your rod has RH threads. Don't think these are available any longer from S&W however Jack First Gun Parts had some new old stock ones not long ago.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Jack First Gun Parts did have the rod listed and I jumped all over that order.
Being borderline OCD, I was tempted to have the gun restored as much as I could; functionally and cosmetically. I didn't care about the resale value. It belonged to my friend and I will keep it till I die.
That is, until I found out it's an introduction model. That changed everything.
However, that damaged ejector rod I just could not abide. I could not have people looking at it and thinking "I" committed such an atrocity!

 

[AtTheRange]

RE: How does it shoot?

I was going to post a picture but I'm not seeing how I can?
The first six rounds, put thru it at ~8.5-9 yards all hit center mass. These were .38 rounds. I also brought along six .357 rounds to try. Four, out of those, also hit center mass. I turned around and my friend was applauding.
I'd say it shoots splendidly!
However, I'm still not happy with the latency on one cylinder. It just barely locks in before the hammer where the others lock in sooner. So, I'll have a professional look at before I fire it again.

 

[larryofcc]

I was going to post a picture but I'm not seeing how I can?
The first six rounds, put thru it at ~8.5-9 yards all hit center mass. These were .38 rounds. I also brought along six .357 rounds to try. Four, out of those, also hit center mass. I turned around and my friend was applauding.
I'd say it shoots splendidly!
However, I'm still not happy with the latency on one cylinder. It just barely locks in before the hammer where the others lock in sooner. So, I'll have a professional look at before I fire it again.

Make quite sure the rod is tightened down or put some Locktite on it. These,on early guns have a tendency to get loose and bind the gun up. That's why the different direction of the threads. Big Larry