M13 trigger hangup

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Aug 21, 2013
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When I dry fire the gun, sometimes it locks up and I have to release the trigger, then I can continue dry fire, carry up is good, this happens with snap caps too. It will cycle and then it just stops and will not cycle until I release the trigger.
 
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You are probably not letting the trigger fully reset going forward. That is called short stroking. There's a spot in there where you can let it almost all the way forward, and it will reset the DA sear on the hammer, but not the cylinder stop. Then when you pull again, the cylinder stop won't retract and allow the cylinder to rotate. Thus, you end up trying to rotate a locked cylinder.
 
Presuming you are letting the trigger go fully forward before pulling it again, it could be old, dried, dirty lubricant creating drag on the lockwork. It could also be a weak/modified/too light of a trigger return spring. It might be the strain screw on the main spring is backed out/shortened/replaced with a too short strain screw.
 
Could also be due to a replaced or bad Hammer, Sear, or Tigger that was not fit correctly. If all the usual suspects that are listed above by the others above check out, then checking these would be a suggestion.
 
I"ve only had it happen when I try to dry fire too fast and don't let my finger get off the trigger all the way, Short Stroking.

I also use and 11 pound rebound spring to reliably get a complete reset of the trigger. This spring is way too light for many shooters and will amplify the Short Stroking problem.

Protocall Design had the answer first. What's the prize?
 
With a tuned revolver, you have to learn to move your trigger finger both ways. With stock springs, you can get away with letting the trigger push your finger forward, because the rebound spring is very heavy.
This is why I always use factory rebound slide springs. I seem to have the problem only in K frame, not J, L or N.
 
As dsf stated a slightly early timing can cause the trigger to hang up because the hand gets stuck. If this is the case the trigger would be a bit hard right before the hammer releases. It also usually clears up as the tip of hand being force hard against the ratchet rubs material off tooth quickly.

As stated a weak return spring or a rough spot on slide. One I had never thought of until it was brought up was a tough spot inside the return slide dragging on return spring That was an odd one. Any rub marks on sided of hammer or trigger where it is rubbing hard on frame or side plate?
 
We are ALL (myself included) giving suggestions however without having the gun in front of us we are all guessing! To narrow the exact issue down the real way to approach this is to put in front of a GOOD Gunsmith. If you are capable of diagnosing and solving he issue yourself then that would be great and the suggestions we all made are a good place to start. Other than that, I don't know any really good GS's in your area.
 
I agree. Like doing surgery over the phone.....simple fix though, just put the OEM rebound slide spring back in the gun.

Kind of a moot point since the original poster has not provided further details. All the speculation with respect to what is causing this could have ended with post #2. As usual, PD hit the nail on the head.
 
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