Model 642 questions

[lrrifleman]

Hi.

I am contemplating the purchase of a new S&W model 642 to supplement my collection and serve in my carry rotation. However, finding ANY brand of revolver in my area is like finding an honest, uncorrupted third term politician in Washington! Therefore, I am left having to make an Internet purchase. Hopefully, someone here can provide some fair, honest, and unbiased advice.

My questions:
1. Is there any significant difference in trigger pull between a Model 642 Airweight and a Model 642 Ladysmith? (Such as the apparent DAO trigger pull.)
2. Is the Model 642 Ladysmith a no lock revolver, the same as a Model 642 Airweight?
3. How heavy is the DAO trigger pull on the Model 642 Airweight and Ladysmith?
4. Are either of these revolvers rated for either +P or +P+ 38 Special?

Thank you for your assistance.

 

[trailmix]

As far as I know, the only difference is the grip and the "Ladysmith" logo.

 

[riverrat38]

The M442 comes in lock and no lock models.
You have to make sure when you buy.
The triggers are the same.
They are both plus P rated.

Best,
Rick

 

[ContinentalOp]

1. I've never handled a Ladysmith 642 so I can't answer this one.

2. I don't know if the Ladysmith has the internal lock or not, but I want to add that if you want to get a 642 without the lock (which I recommend for a carry gun), make sure you get the 642-1. The 642-2 has the internal lock.

3. I don't have a trigger pull weight gauge so I couldn't tell you for sure, but the trigger pull on a 642 can be on the heavy side, I think 10-12 lbs. is a typical range. They do get smoother with shooting and dry firing. If that's too heavy there's always the Apex duty/carry trigger kit that drops the weight into the 8-9 lb. range. I've been thinking about trying it. My main concern is the trigger return, which can be weak if the Apex rebound spring is used, based on what I've read.

4. The 642-1 is definitely rated for +P, so I'm fairly certain the Ladysmith is, as well. As far as +P+, I'm not sure since it's a made-up rating. Given that the best self-defense loads for the .38 snub are either standard pressure or +P I wouldn't consider it an issue.

 

[ADP3]

An APEX J-Frame Kit will also get you a bit lighter trigger pull for around $25. The 642 is an excellent carry gun for personal defense. If you are looking for basically a range gun for punching paper you may want to look at another model. That being said, I run about 100 rounds a month through a 642 at the range. I carry a 642 so I practice with a 642.

Best Regards,
ADP3

 

[tcon]

I bought a 642 from Bud's counter in December. As others have said, get the 642 NIL (no internal lock). The black version is the 442. Again - NIL is preferable. These little guns do have a moderately stiff trigger but they are supposed to. Before considering any modifications, I recommend loading with snap caps and dry firing at least thousand times. They say you don't need snap caps but I like the idea.

The 642 I bought was for my wife and I did notice the trigger pull noticeably lightened up after about 1000 of dry-fires. Probably a combination of the springs settling in and less friction after the innards' contact points have better mated.

After all that, it would have been a nice gun with an acceptable trigger. But I did take it a bit further because I'm sort of a tinkerer and if it's within my ability, I sometimes try to squeeze every bit of potential. So I disassembled the thing and polished all the contact and sliding points. Left the factory hammer spring but replaced the trigger rebound spring with a lighter one. Big, big difference.

 

[chief38]

The average Trigger Pull weight in those Revolvers are usually between 10 - 12 pounds. I would not worry too much about that particular aspect as Spring Kits are readily available. While I would not suggest you make the pull too light, smoothing them up and having them still function 100% of the time is not a big deal (as long as you know your way around a S&W Revolver or have a competent GS).

AFAIK the only difference between a standard model and a LS is the finish, Grips and packaging.

I would STRONGLY suggest you go with a pre-lock or NO lock model. In fact you might want to look for an older version before the I/L was ever introduced. Not only are they (IMHO) better guns but they are made from all forged parts instead of the MIM they are using today.

 

[Zipdog]

Hard to believe you live in an area with no S&W model 642 or 442 in stock. I live in a town of 8000 population with 4 gun shops and all of them have either the 642 or 442 in stock. No locks no problem.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

The M642-2 Lady Smith in current product DOES have the lock. Product code is 163808.

If you have children, or grand children, around, the lock might be useful. A lot of women will keep handguns in their purses (even if they carry on their person, they'll stick the gun their purse when they get home), and small children LOVE to dig thru purses when no one is looking.

 

[Rick_A]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the current models and no reason to go looking for older versions, unless you want an Airweight in nickel or some such.

The new guns are reasonably priced and well made.
20151111_091707 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

One had a lock and the other not. That's what I could get a hold of. Some are too quick to tear down a new gun and start fiddlin.' They smooth out quite nicely with some use.

Some new guns have crunchy triggers before the break. Avoid one of those and you're fine.

Mine shoot directly to point of aim, look good, and shoot good.

 

[pharmer]

I've got a 642-1. Trigger is heavy but if'n I need it, trigger pull won't be a concern with a "large target" inside of 3 yds. I have better rubber grips on it now. Joe

 

[326MOD10]

I have never handled the 642 Lady Smith so cannot comment on it.

I have an older 642, a newer (with lock) 442 and just recently picked up one of the newer Performance Center 442's with the silver cylinder and hardware but black frame.

If you are looking for a smoother trigger the Performance Center models are the way to go. It does not have an internal lock either. Have not had the chance to fire live ammo through it yet but in dry-fire it is pretty sweet.

 

[Frankly45]

You already have great answers to your questions. I've had my 642 for about 8 years. It's completely stock except for a new DeSantis clip-grip. Just let me add that it is very dependable, accurate handgun that's covenient to carry in a variety of ways. I like the fact that it can be carried in a coat pocket or purse etc. and if necessary, hand on the gun ready to fire from concealment without "displaying" it. I say just buy it and don't look back..you won't regret it.
Frank

 

[Old cop]

I have an older model Ladysmith without the lock and can find no difference in trigger pull between it and my Model 37 or Model 38. As to +P+ beware, there is no official rating for that category. My carry ammo is all +P and all my Js are at least 30 years old.

 

[riverrat38]

If you want more power than plus p, try some Buffalo Bore "heavy" plus p. Its definitely up in plus p plus territory.
Certainly more than I want to shoot out of a 15 ounce revolver!

Best,
Rick

 

[revolver686]

The best factory trigger will be on the the Performance Center "enhanced action" 642. I have the PC "enhanced action" 637 and the trigger is much better than stock.

 

[Igiveup]

I just got the 642-1 last week for my wife. It isn't going to work unless I get a spring kit for it. Trigger pull way too heavy for her and have already polished the trigger parts and dry fired a good thousand times with snap caps. It is rated for +P. Larger grips would be mandatory for me, my wife, no.

 

[hogblue]

I have two 442's and one 642, all no locks. I have replaced all the mim with pre mim forged parts. Smooth as melted butter.

 

[akviper]

I was factory trained as an armorer and like the suggestions to get snap caps and dry firing a thousand times. A big name California gunsmithy back in the 60s and 70s charged $60 for their custom trigger job. They put the guns in a dry firing machine and cycled them 1,000 times. The result is a smooth safe trigger job.. When you start replacing springs and grinding parts you run the risk of defeating the internal safeties built into the gun intended to keep it from firing when it should not. The rebound spring is critical to keep the gun from firing unless the trigger is held back and replacing it with a weaker spring can defeat this safety feature. Excess polishing of the action parts reduces the service life and can seriously affect the safety functions.

 

[creekman]

as I have said before....my 642 enhanced action has a nice trigger pull - good carry gun