Restoring it back into a working revolver will be a great project and you will learn a lot from it. Who ever painted it needs to take a long walk on a short pier.
Need Help with Model Identification!
- Thread starter DeltaCompany
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Looks like it may have been a Desert Storm sidearm. Pretty cool if you ask me. There are folks on here that could make those stocks sing. Do some searching and you might find threads about preserving stocks or who is good at it. As others have said, if they are original to the gun it may be best to keep them together. Even if YOU decide you like newer ones better, the next buyer may not....
Brownells has some. Look under gunsmith tools.
handejector
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Judging by the rust I see under the paint, I would just replace the grips. It won't come out as a stellar collectible, so just make it a good shooter. It is not worth spending a lot to restore that right grip with a crack full length and significant wood loss. 
OP
DeltaCompany
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I have only been here 24 hrs and this forum is by far the best I ever come across. Thanks again everyone
PATIENCE,, Looks like your making progress. It's easy to post opinions and free advice! Thanks for all the photos, I can see paint spray in the barrel,, that tells me it was never fired since it was painted. The chambers and barrel look "usable " and the bolt in the breech face looks nice so does the ratchet, awesome. IF you're going to order some tools, I'd suggest picking up a set of SPRINGS. We can see the center pin sticking out of the ejector rod with the cylinder swung out. I get S&W (original) parts from Midwest Gun Works ,, they probably have screwdrivers too. By the time you're done you'll be a qualified Bubba!! just like many of us!
Inusuit
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Yeah, I only use a pocket knife borrowed from someone else as a pry bar.
Serrated triggers were standard on S&W revolvers since the 1930s.
The earliest Chiefs Specials wore smooth triggers.
The prewar and postwar Terrier, built on the I-frame also had a smooth trigger.
S&W's engineering change # 313 on September 14, 1951, changed the I-frame and J-frame smooth trigger to a serrated trigger. The first known Chiefs Special with a serrated trigger is serial number 631, which shipped on December 3, 1951.
Here are a few examples of early Chiefs with smooth triggers.
The prewar and postwar Terrier, built on the I-frame also had a smooth trigger.
S&W's engineering change # 313 on September 14, 1951, changed the I-frame and J-frame smooth trigger to a serrated trigger. The first known Chiefs Special with a serrated trigger is serial number 631, which shipped on December 3, 1951.
Here are a few examples of early Chiefs with smooth triggers.
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DWalt
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I'll repeat what I said earlier. Do not waste your time attempting to improve the grips on it. Just get some replacement J-frame grips off eBay that appeal to you, factory or otherwise, as the final task. You can hang onto the original grips if you wish, but there is not much point in doing that either. They are worse than worthless and always will be. It will be impossible to determine whatever else needs to be done with the internal mechanism until you get the paint removed and the side plate off. You may or may not need some replacement components. No reason to get anything until you know. There are many YouTube videos on how to disassemble an S&W revolver if you do not know how.
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handejector
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If you disassemble the ejector rod mechanism, and you probably SHOULD to remove all the paint and/or rust, you need to know that the ejector rod on this gun has a LEFT hand thread. You will have to turn it to the RIGHT to loosen it.
OP
DeltaCompany
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Did some more scrubbing with the nylon brush this morning. And got 3 screws out the side plate so far. Anyone know what the V 6 means on the handle? Also the the trigger has started operating correctly.
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Those are assemblers marks and only identify who did what when. Not generally identifiable.
Make sure you put the screws make in the same holes. The front screw secures the cylinder and is fitted to it.
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DeltaCompany
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Looking great! Any idea on the serial number yet? It will probably also be stamped on the bottom of the barrel and on the back of the cylinder near the circumference.
Mike
OP
DeltaCompany
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Only 4 digits 2452 at bottom of handle
OP
DeltaCompany
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The soaking is working really well. Another 2-3 days ought to have almost all of it cleaned off. I notice that the butt serial number is showing nicely. You ought to be able to get a decent picture of it. Look like a 4-digit number ending in 75, maybe!
If that 4th side plate screw is stuck, you might try a few drops of a good penetrating oil, on the screw head. Give it a few hours, then try taking it out.
Regards, Mike Priwer
If that 4th side plate screw is stuck, you might try a few drops of a good penetrating oil, on the screw head. Give it a few hours, then try taking it out.
Regards, Mike Priwer
