Need some help .32 HE

Brush2000

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Hello Friends, I recently purchased this project gun not knowing what exactly it was for $225 as pictured. I plan to take some much finer grit sand paper to it maybe polishing wheel then try cold bluing.

I'd like to know what to call it
And what grips to purchase
Lock up is tight no shake or cracks I fired 12 rounds with j frame grips with a surprisingly tight group of 3in at 15 FT.

SN 162035
On all parts
Barrel marked 32 long CTG IMG_20250818_175359806.webpIMG_20250818_175322346_HDR.webpIMG_20250818_175313280.webpIMG_20250818_175258897.webpIMG_20250818_175238924.webp
 
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I was doing a little dry firing after cleaning out all the gunk on inside of the frame and my firing pin tip snapped right off enough to not engage the primer any know if a j pin will work on the I frame hammer 17556252128161992564108188155701.webp
 
Which version (or vintage) of the I frame is it? If it's an Improved I frame or a Model 1953, the hammer (and firing pin) should be similar. I don't know how different they would be from the hammer nose used in the leaf spring type I frames. If it were me, I'd be looking for a replacement hammer from a similar vintage gun.
🐸

OOPS! I shoulda reread the whole thread. With a good old leaf spring gun like that, I honestly think I'd go after a whole replacement hammer. I think I still have the hammer from the "parts kit" I bought a few years back for a project I was involved with. PM me if interested in going with replacement of the whole hammer. GF
 
Last edited:
Hello Friends, I recently purchased this project gun not knowing what exactly it was for $225 as pictured. I plan to take some much finer grit sand paper to it maybe polishing wheel then try cold bluing.

I'd like to know what to call it
And what grips to purchase
Lock up is tight no shake or cracks I fired 12 rounds with j frame grips with a surprisingly tight group of 3in at 15 FT.

SN 162035
On all parts
Barrel marked 32 long CTG View attachment 787131View attachment 787132View attachment 787133View attachment 787134View attachment 787135
Bluing was successful in my opinion
IMG_20250822_113007466.webpIMG_20250822_113039018.webp
 
Not the best lighting to evaluate the finish. But does look like the surface prep before applying the bluing is seriously lacking. Give it another try by leveling out the little nicks and surface imperfections. Finish up with 2000 grit paper using a flat sanding block on the flat surfaces, then a hand polishing to a bright surface. Finally apply bluing.

By the way, those .32s are known for much better accuracy than 3" groups at 15 feet (even at 15 yards!) Is there corrosion in the barrel bore?
 
Not the best lighting to evaluate the finish. But does look like the surface prep before applying the bluing is seriously lacking. Give it another try by leveling out the little nicks and surface imperfections. Finish up with 2000 grit paper using a flat sanding block on the flat surfaces, then a hand polishing to a bright surface. Finally apply bluing.

By the way, those .32s are known for much better accuracy than 3" groups at 15 feet (even at 15 yards!) Is there corrosion in the barrel bore?
I'm 100% sure it's my accuracy in question not the guns 🤣 I'm not the best handgun shooter especially with how small the front sight is, I started with p-400 grit then moved too 1500 grit all by hand I think I'll go ahead and try some 2000 grit and go for a second layer. I plan to use it as a woods gun when I squirrel hunt so it doesn't need to be perfect all though I would like a little better. Thank you for the recommendations.
 
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