Need Your Opinion on First Revolver Purchase: 649-5

[rbmac52]

In my opinion, yes, a lot.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

As far as I am concerned the M649 is the best J frame to carry. But carrying high pressure .357 Magnum loads makes no sense to me. Standard .38 Special is exactly what the gun needs:

 

[giants1]

ISCS Yoda, thanks for your comments.

Would you help me understand why my 649 is the best J-frame to carry and why .357 Magnum loads don't make sense?

 

[L-2]

2000 – BAG, BEL, BKB, BKP, BNY, CDJ, CDL, CDN, CDW, CDY, CDZ, CEA, CEB, CEC, CEF, CEJ, CEL, CEM, CEP, CLC
2001 – BAL, BRR, CEB, CEM, CER, CET, CEU, CEV, CFL, CJM
2002 – CFB, CFC, CFE, CFJ, CFJ, CFK, CFS

Supica, Jim,Nahas, Richard. Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson) (Kindle Locations 17060-17063). F+W Media. Kindle Edition.

My "book" indicates CEV prefixes were from 2001.

Shooting .357Mag is a personal choice as revolvers chambered in such can also shoot .38Special.

My Opinions on the Matter.
Things to consider between .38Special and .357Magnum, or any caliber for that matter are:
-threat, target;
-barricades, barriers, which may need to penetrate;
-the shooter's accuracy with a given round;
-distance to threat, target;
-number and quickness of possible follow-up shots;
-a given brand/model of ammo's ability to expand and expected possible penetration depth (in a human).

There may be other factors which I'm not thinking of right now. Many folks like the idea of the biggest "bang" and recoil, but those factors don't actually do the physical damage to a human threat. Think penetrating with enough force (~12") while doing damage to internal organs, while causing blood loss. Pain and the mental aspects to the bad-guy in getting shot are other factors, which may cause the bad-guys to stop whatever they are doing is a nice by-product.

The .357 round may physically enable the projectile/bullet to reach a further distance with enough force/energy to do the physical damage/injury to a threat/target. The actual distances out of a 2" snub-nose is unknown to me, but maybe someone else will know or have an idea.

I've got a 642 and a 640Pro. I've considered a 649 or 638, but never came across one at the right time, place, price, that I can recall. I'll usually carry a .38 Special +P round if carrying one or both of those revolvers, but have shot .357Magnum through my various .357 capable revolvers.

Fifteen yards is about my accuracy limit for me to be effective with these snub-noses. I'm not very good at shooting handguns when the distances go to 25 yards. Twenty-five yards is when I should transition to rifle or shotgun (w/slugs) if I haven't already deployed the long-guns. For some others, they may be perfectly fine, accurate, and capable with their handguns at the 25 yard (or even beyond) ranges. I do have a 5" 627Pro, which I'm more comfortable shooting at 25 yards, btw.

 

[giants1]

Thanks, L-2. Does your S&W Standard Catalog break down the manufacture dates by month?

 

[dsf]

Thanks, everyone.

I checked it out, learned how to check timing, found that it came with a Crimson Trace laser on the grip (dull LED, but still works). I liked it and felt comfortable, so I bought it today, pick up in a few weeks after the paperwork clears.

It's actually still on the California Roster, but will expire on 1/1/2023, so it will be off-roster and hopefully more valuable after that.

After I bought it, I stopped by another LGS (first time there), and they didn't have any revolvers, which made me feel better about the supply shortage.

It definitely has a key lock, is not marked as Lady Smith, definitely has two small linear ports near the front of the barrel, and the serial number is CEV6239. Does anyone know the date of manufacture?

I'm going to learn the manual of arms, including the use of speed loaders. the LGS recommended HKS and I have speed strips. Can you recommend speed loaders and pocket/IWB holsters?

And what and/or how many batteries does that Crimson Trace LED take?

Your gun uses "the dreaded alpha-numeric" serial number code and based on CEV prefix was made in 2001. It can probably be learned what month, not sure how to find that out. Batteries are probably 2032 - the slim flat types.

$700.00 with a Crimson Trace is very much OK in CA, even if it is on roster. I picked up an older Model 38 and it came with a Crimson Trace (Guns, Fishing & Stuff) that I sold off for $125.00. So, figure you got the gun for about $550.00 - not bad.

I've found that whatever I paid for a gun tends to fade from memory and I enjoy what I got. OTOH, if I passed up for pricing I end up kicking myself.

If the gun drops off roster next year it may not go up in value all that much. Keep in mind guns that appear to be falling off are often renewed. But hang on to it for a while and you'd probably do OK when trading in for something easier to shoot.

If you go to Sacramento River City Gun Exchange always has interesting used and new in supply, stops in Vacaville and Elk Grove have a few good gun stores, and there's another in Vallejo (Triple AAA).

 

[giants1]

Thanks, dsf.

My Crimson Trace is Model LG-105 and takes two CR2032 batteries.

However, I need a hex wrench to adjust windage and elevation; does anyone know the size of that hex wrench?

About the roster, they're removing three guns from the roster for each new gun that gets on the roster. At the same time, Pena v. Lindley is challenging the constitutionality of the roster in the 9th Circuit.

citation: Pe~na v. Cid Case Update (Challenge to California's Handgun Roster) - Calguns Foundation

 

[GerSan69]

Contact Crimson Trace. They can give you the size - and they may even send you a free one!
Those linear ports are probably Magnaports. Folks either love them or hate them, not much in between. I'm not a fan, but I don't have an opinion about their effectiveness.
As for +/- difference to value, since you're in California, I'd suspect there isn't much difference since finding firearms is more difficult than here in AZ. Personally, a pocket gun like that would be a keeper because you might not get many chances to buy another.
In the event you decide to remove the internal lock, there's a gentleman here on the Forum that sells a machined plug for the hole. You'll find his post in the accessories section of the for-sale subforums.

 

[giants1]

Thanks, GerSan69.

He has a couple of other small revolvers (Ruger?*) on consignment and likely gunsmith modified, but I've been focused on Glock 19s and passively S&W revolvers and, honestly, went to the LGS just to ask a technical question, not buy anything.

Can you recommend any other pocket pistols that are likely to be collectible?

I haven't given any thought to the internal lock, but I would have to check on the legality of removing that internal lock.

* I'm leery of Ruger revolvers. A few months back, the big box LGS had a Ruger SP-101 in a 2" barrel. I dry fired it, with the store's permission, and absolutely HATED the trigger due to the insanely long pull involved. Mind you, I'm not a trigger snob and this was the first time I ever hated a trigger (Glock triggers don't bother me, if that gives you a frame of reference).

 

[Mountain425]

Congrat on your first revolver, glad you finally found one !

 

[giants1]

Are J-frames that weigh more than 22 oz, like my 649-5, practical to carry in ankle holsters?

 

[adwjc]

Are J-frames that weigh more than 22 oz, like my 649-5, practical to carry in ankle holsters?

They absolutely are!

While some use Airweights or Airlights, steel or Stainless Steel J's are a favorite back up weapon for cops nationwide.

 

[giants1]

Thanks, Tony. Can you recommend a couple brands/models for my 649-5 and which ankle and which side to put the revolver for a right hand shooter?

 

[adwjc]

opinion ... 649

I use a DeSantis that I have had for years, inside left ankle for right hand draw. The one I have has a thumb break strap, seems to work with all grip styles.

Another one i have seen that is popular is the Renegade, now produced by The Wilderness, that one is elastic and nylon. It is constructed so you pull through in an upward motion, grip style shouldn't matter with that one.

 

[giants1]

A friend expressed concerned that the extractor plunger on the 649-5 is too short to effectively remove spent .38 SPL and .357 Magnum cases. Does anyone have suggestions on how to mitigate this?

 

[loeman]

Congratulations! I've had a 649-3 in .357 since I bought it new in 1996 (I think). It is very accurate and is a pleasure to shoot. It has been my most carried gun, usually pocket carry. The Uncle Mikes grips fit me perfectly. If anything ever happened to it, I'd be looking for another right away.

 

[loeman]

A friend expressed concerned that the extractor plunger on the 649-5 is too short to effectively remove spent .38 SPL and .357 Magnum cases. Does anyone have suggestions on how to mitigate this?

I've never had any concerns regarding extraction. A sharp whack with your palm will almost always do the job. At least that has been my experience.

 

[StakeOut]

Anything done to a revolver after it left the factory should be closely looked at and then ask yourself is this really what I want or am I settling for something else.
Altered Guns =????

 

[giants1]

Thanks, everyone.

My 649-5 was made in July 2001; can it safely shoot +P .357 and .38 cartridges without damage to the revolver?

 

[John Patrick]

Thanks, everyone.

Can the 649-5 shoot +P .357 and .38 cartridges?

There is no +P 357 magnum, your gun can shoot +P 38spl.

The short extractor rod issue is mitigated some by using 38spl standard or +P ammo since the 38spl case is shorter than the 357 magnum case.

I have a 638, which is 38spl +P capable but not 357. I use Speer 135gr +P Gold Dot Short Barrel ammo. This ammo has a proven record in snubbies with the NYPD.

In your heavier steel 649 you might want to look at Buffalo Bore's 158gr 38spl +P Semi Wadcutter Hollow Point Gas check ammo too. It's performance is at the top of 38spl +P performance and in the light 357 magnum arena.