New M&P Parts available soon from Apex

Ah yes!
But if one were to begin experimentation with Mass. compliant springs, while using the improved sear, pull "weight" could be returned to "stock", while still having improved re-set distance, no?

Not sure I need an improved reset but that's certainly an interesting thought, Spotteddog. I wonder if the vender has any input on what the result of this match-up would be.

Knew I should have saved those heavy old springs for something ;-)


p.s. Magnum, yes, the "MA compliant spring" is nothing but a heavier trigger return spring that gives MA bound M&Ps a 10# trigger pull which allows it to be sold in MA. The spring itself is just what makes the gun compliant. There is no compliance tag/requirement on the spring.
hth
 
Not sure I need an improved reset but that's certainly an interesting thought, Spotteddog. I wonder if the vender has any input on what the result of this match-up would be.

Knew I should have saved those heavy old springs for something ;-)


p.s. Magnum, yes, the "MA compliant spring" is nothing but a heavier trigger return spring that gives MA bound M&Ps a 10# trigger pull which allows it to be sold in MA. The spring itself is just what makes the gun compliant. There is no compliance tag/requirement on the spring.
hth

I guess the 10 pound trigger makes an unsafe MP, safe! My god what is wrong with the rest of the states, don't they want safe guns. :D Does that include LEO issued weapons?
 
I guess the 10 pound trigger makes an unsafe MP, safe! My god what is wrong with the rest of the states, don't they want safe guns. :D Does that include LEO issued weapons?

LEO departments and individuals get whatever tehy want. Only the rest of us are safe
It gets allot worse too. Too painful to go into detaisl here. :-(
 
Greetings everyone and the Happiest of New Year!

I was informed today that there may be a timing issue when installing our sear in an M&P 45C. In the reported case, the timing of the striker release coincides with at the exact moment when the trigger's overtravel stop contacts the frame's stop tab. This means that there is essentially no overtravel, and that it would be possible to not have the striker fall when the trigger is pressed fully rearward.

We will be looking at whether this is an isolated issue or whether the frame dimensions or trigger bar on the 45C will require a different sear.
If anyone has installed our sear in a 45C please let us know whether or not you have experienced these issues.

Randy
 
We investigated the issue with the MP45C and FS. The problem is related to the variation in the bending process on the trigger extension which contacts the sear cam surface. The degree of curvature in the bend varies quite a bit from trigger bar to trigger bar.

We were able to reproduce the same situation on a FS model- wherein the sear released the striker when the two overtravel pads made contact.

By increasing the gap between the bottom flat of the trigger extension and the curved surface loop by .002" the sear release point was moved forward so that the overtravel was minimal but detectable. Overtravel and reset were then similar to that of the other pistols we tested.
 
I have range tested the Apex sear in my FS 45, the FS 40 is a carbon copy of the 45. It preformed perfectly as advertised. I noticed that I can shoot one hand right, one hand left much more accurately and quickly than with the factory sear. I would also say that two handed shooting is much easier as well. This is a great product.
 
I just installed your new sear in my M&P9 and I am VERY happy! Your video made it a piece of cake.

I got an average trigger pull that was just a shade above 4 lbs.

I noticed while dry firing that the front sight doesn't move, like it used to(a lot of that comes back on the guy pulling the

trigger). The trigger breaks a LOT cleaner. Also, the reset seems a lot more tactile. Can't wait to try it out on the range.


Looking forward to more great parts from you for my M&P9.
 
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By increasing the gap between the bottom flat of the trigger extension and the curved surface loop by .002" the sear release point was moved forward so that the overtravel was minimal but detectable. Overtravel and reset were then similar to that of the other pistols we tested.

Maybe I'm a little slow today...

Are you suggesting an M&P owner's course of action to remedy the issue, should it occur?

How are you increasing this gap?

Thanks...
 
There are several ways to correct the issue should it occur.

The first is a replacement trigger bar. Since there is so much variation, a replacement bar will typically eliminate the problem altogether.

The way we corrected the situation here was to take feeler gauges and measure the spacing between the bottom flat part of the trigger extension and the curved sear cam portion (there is a visible gap). We used a pair of hemastats to expand the gap so that it increased by .002". This was done by opening the hemastats so that it expands the inner loop. .002 is well below the fatigue threshold for the metal.

If the bottom of the striker were simply polished- similar to how one polishes the striker face itself, the problem is eliminated.

Any of these will eliminate the problem should it occur.
 
Shopping Cart update!!


We've made a few changes to our Shopping Cart for those of you that mentioned issues.

We've taken out the necessity to create a customer account with us just to buy a few parts. You'll be able to check out as a guest now when ordering with us.

We've also removed the Date Of Birth field to enhance customer privacy and online security.
 
New to S&W , could use help on removal of extractor. I have a M&P L9
 
We will be adding a video tutorial on extractor removal on our website in a couple of weeks.

Until then, there is a downloadable armorer's manual over on the mp-pistol.com forum that might be helpful.
 
If you ordered a sear from us before 3:00 PM (Pacific time) today, your sear is packed and ready to ship.

They will be delivered to the Post Office in the morning for delivery all across the country.

Outgoingmail-1.jpg


Thank you to our friends and customers here and on other forums for making this product so successful.
 
Got my new sear the other day, and installed it last night. I had a little trouble during the installation because my 1/8" punch was slightly big for the hole in my M&P. The punch actually got stuck in the pistol and I had to knock it back out with a 1/16" punch from the other side. After all that, it was fairly simple. I followed along with Randy's video on my iPhone while I did it. The trigger pull turned out great! I don't have a way of measuring, but it's such a clean short break, and the reset is way more distinct. I think it should be plenty safe for carry too. I put my finger in the trigger guard and basically hung the gun from my finger on the trigger and couldn't get the striker to fall. You really have to distinctively pull it. I just wish I could get rid of the clunky first 1/2" of trigger pull. Is there any way to reduce that? I'm guessing it has something to do with the trigger bar or trigger bar spring. It's just really rough until that last little bit of pull, even though there's really no weight to it.
 
Got my new sear the other day, and installed it last night. I had a little trouble during the installation because my 1/8" punch was slightly big for the hole in my M&P. The punch actually got stuck in the pistol and I had to knock it back out with a 1/16" punch from the other side. After all that, it was fairly simple. I followed along with Randy's video on my iPhone while I did it. The trigger pull turned out great! I don't have a way of measuring, but it's such a clean short break, and the reset is way more distinct. I think it should be plenty safe for carry too. I put my finger in the trigger guard and basically hung the gun from my finger on the trigger and couldn't get the striker to fall. You really have to distinctively pull it. I just wish I could get rid of the clunky first 1/2" of trigger pull. Is there any way to reduce that? I'm guessing it has something to do with the trigger bar or trigger bar spring. It's just really rough until that last little bit of pull, even though there's really no weight to it.

The striker safety plunger is what is causing the clunky pre travel. You can order a titanium striker block plunger from Speed shooters or wait for the SBP kit coming out from Apex tactical in a couple of weeks. The other option is rework the factory plunger yourself. I have done that on my FS MP 40 and I went with the titanium plunger from Speed Shooters on my MP 45. The easy way is just get the Titanium plunger from SS it works out about the same either way....
 
Thank you for the info. Maybe I should just leave mine as is, since it will be my primary carry weapon once I receive my CCW license.
 
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