Questions on wadcutter

tlay

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I am new to reloading and need help on loading the 38 special wadcutter. I have loaded other bullets with no problem but need help with this one. I have 2 different wadcutter bullets, Magtech 148gr. LWC, and Speer 148gr. HBWC. I know that it should be seated flush with the brass and to put a light roll crimp on but I have some factory Magtech LWC and there is a crimp down below the bullet. I would imagine that this is to keep the bullet from sliding towards the powder. Is this necessary? And how do you crimp this way? I am using a Lee turret press with all 4 of the Lee dies. My next question is which powder is best for target shooting? I have Unique, Titegroup, and HP 38. And how much? I will be shooting mostly out of a K38 with a 6" barrel. Thanks.
 
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I am new to reloading and need help on loading the 38 special wadcutter. I have loaded other bullets with no problem but need help with this one. I have 2 different wadcutter bullets, Magtech 148gr. LWC, and Speer 148gr. HBWC. I know that it should be seated flush with the brass and to put a light roll crimp on but I have some factory Magtech LWC and there is a crimp down below the bullet. I would imagine that this is to keep the bullet from sliding towards the powder. Is this necessary? And how do you crimp this way? I am using a Lee turret press with all 4 of the Lee dies. My next question is which powder is best for target shooting? I have Unique, Titegroup, and HP 38. And how much? I will be shooting mostly out of a K38 with a 6" barrel. Thanks.
 
The case body cannelure is not necessary for loading wadcutters, and there is certainly no need to add it or redo it.

Of your powders I would use HP38. I have loaded thousands of wadcutters with 3.2 grains of Win 231 which has always come off the same production line and is now an exact match. Titegroup ought to do well, too; pick a load for about 750 fps or a bit less. Unique is a medium burning powder less useful for target loads.
 
Thanks for the info. If I have once fired brass with that crimp will I have a problem reloading them? Thanks.
 
Originally posted by tlay1:
Thanks for the info. If I have once fired brass with that crimp will I have a problem reloading them? Thanks.

No, none. Ignore the case cannelure (it is not a crimp)
 
I know a ton of folks will tell you that it's too dirty and it'll rot your teeth, but I really like 2.7 grains of Bullseye.
 
I have used 2.7 of Bullseye under a Speer HBWC but lately I have been using 2.7 of Titegroup under the same Speer HBWC and have found it more accurate in my S&W Mod. 14. I have had no problem with leading and the Titegroupwith this load and it burns lots cleaner that BE. In reallity I could live comfortably with either the BE or Titegroup powber
 
Thanks for the replys. I think I am going to try the Titegroup with 2.7 grs. I will let you know how it works.
 
I also use only W231/HP-38 for my .38 Special target rounds. As for the bullets, I usually load 148gr DEWC bullets and when there is a crimp-groove I crimp in that groove. I fund the rounds are more consistent when I do so. The added benefit is they are easier to load into the chambers with a speedloader when there is a little of the bullet extending past the case.
 
I use 2.7 Green Dot with my HBWC. I never used Bullseye or Titegroup with practice load...2.7 seems to be pretty universal though....My husband says I could go to 2.9 with the Green Dot. When we decided on the 2.7 we worked up loads, and it seems to me that the reason I stopped at 2.7 was actually because it is where I saw the most accuracy. After going with more grain the accuracy began falling off....this from the lady on the post here....LOL
 
I have read in several places where a minimal or almost NO crimp benefits accuracy. I have found this to be true.

I put very little (just a tiny, teansy, weensy, ity, bitty bit) on any of the 148 loads I use.

All the load you were recommended work great, just some like certain guns more than others.

Bob
 
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