bcowern
Member
What is the correct way to reinstall a side plate that has been removed so it fits flush again?
Regards,
bcowern
Regards,
bcowern
Reinstalling side plate
- Thread starter bcowern
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First make sure everything inside is in the correct position. Cycle the action to make sure that is functions as it should. Using a rubber hammer, place the sideplate on the frame so all edges are setting down in the recess. Tap all corners of the plate until you cannot feel a bump when you run your finger over the joint, then replace the cap nut and the screw if your model has one. Tighten them snug, but do not apply excessive torque to the screws. Afterall, you may need to get them out again someday. Always watch the cap nut, since if it ever comes loose it will disappear quickly.
max503
Member
For me, the Hammer Block wants to get out of place. The block has to fit into a groove in the side plate. Get that lined up then fit the top of the plate into the frame and kind of tip/hinge it into place. I use the handle-end of a small screw driver as a gentle tapper to help coax it together. Don't use any force.
mmaher94087
Member
The edge of the side plate and frame are tapered very slightly making an interrupt fit. The side plate needs to be firmly pressed into place. As said, a rubber faced hammer will work. A Model A arbor press also can be used.
I was a bit startled at the recommendation to cycle the action with the sideplate off----having been told it's a no-no----given the outer end of the studs are unsupported---never mind I admit to having done it---with no ill effects up until I was told not to do so. I do cycle the action once per gun following its welcome bath, and stuffing the bits and pieces back together, and the sideplate's installed---just in case. So far, so good after 200 and some odd guns over a mere 60+ years---but there's a first time for everything.
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph Tremaine
All great suggestions. I take the cowardly way and leave the side plates on. 
I'm with James. Don't mess with the sideplate. It's like buying a car and pulling the engine to clean it. Leve it alone.
mmaher94087
Member
I agree with James and Don, don't pull the side plate unless an internal repair is necessary.
Sideplate removal
All firearms brought into and welcomed into the stable are stripped down ( sideplate removed and cylinder removed) and thoroughly cleaned and old oil and grease removed.Everything is cleaned Ren waxed,and re-oiled/greased and reassembled.Removal of the sideplate is by using a rubber/plastic faced hammer on the LEFT side of grip frame (stocks removed of course).Reinstallation of the sideplate is by hand carefully fitting into place with as stated above the hammer block in the proper position.Thumb and finger pressure is all that is needed to push flush with frame.Hollow ground screwdriver only with proper fit tip and snug all screws.Then tighten carefully.It's worked for me for over 40 years.
All firearms brought into and welcomed into the stable are stripped down ( sideplate removed and cylinder removed) and thoroughly cleaned and old oil and grease removed.Everything is cleaned Ren waxed,and re-oiled/greased and reassembled.Removal of the sideplate is by using a rubber/plastic faced hammer on the LEFT side of grip frame (stocks removed of course).Reinstallation of the sideplate is by hand carefully fitting into place with as stated above the hammer block in the proper position.Thumb and finger pressure is all that is needed to push flush with frame.Hollow ground screwdriver only with proper fit tip and snug all screws.Then tighten carefully.It's worked for me for over 40 years.
Well, I've gone from startled about a recommendation to cycle the action with the sideplate off---to absolutely SHATTERED at these last three comments (posts 9, 10, & 11) telling us to not mess with it in the first place-------although the first such comment came with one of those winking smiley faces. I took that one to mean he was just messing with us for fun. The reason I've gone from startled to SHATTERED is because these three folks are among those select few I've deemed to be among the "been there and done that" folks you damn well better pay attention to when they say something. Now I don't know what to think.
That said, I reckon it's time to start over----from scratch:
So---just how is it you go about properly cleaning one of these things when they first arrive on your doorstep? I ask because I'm starting to think I may have been doing it all wrong. What I've been doing for more years than I can count is to take the gun ALL apart (except for barrels and action studs in the case of a hand ejector) and put it to soak for a spell----typically 2-3 days, before I start scrubbing---and that's just the first step (after making the bore SQUEAKY clean).
Ralph Tremaine
And yes, I've been diagnosed as having an obsessive compulsive disorder when it comes to having CLEAN guns.
That said, I reckon it's time to start over----from scratch:
So---just how is it you go about properly cleaning one of these things when they first arrive on your doorstep? I ask because I'm starting to think I may have been doing it all wrong. What I've been doing for more years than I can count is to take the gun ALL apart (except for barrels and action studs in the case of a hand ejector) and put it to soak for a spell----typically 2-3 days, before I start scrubbing---and that's just the first step (after making the bore SQUEAKY clean).
Ralph Tremaine
And yes, I've been diagnosed as having an obsessive compulsive disorder when it comes to having CLEAN guns.
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mmaher94087
Member
If, big IF, one can reinstall the side plate properly and completely, then go for it. My experience has been that the plate is often not installed properly, and the end result is an unsightly line around the plate or a misalignment at the hammer opening. Add in engraving and it's a real rat's nest to get everything to align. I just don't recommend it.
My cleaning starts with a week's soak in Ed's Red followed with several flushing's of a brake cleaning aerosol. Flush till clean fluid flows and cycle the action while flushing. Blow out the mechanism with dry compressed air. Re-lube with Rem Oil when completely dry. Antiques are simple but I have no experience with Hand Ejectors.
My cleaning starts with a week's soak in Ed's Red followed with several flushing's of a brake cleaning aerosol. Flush till clean fluid flows and cycle the action while flushing. Blow out the mechanism with dry compressed air. Re-lube with Rem Oil when completely dry. Antiques are simple but I have no experience with Hand Ejectors.
smithman 10
US Veteran
If you buy a used revolver
You really must take a look inside. Removing the sideplate, a thorough inspection and cleaning if necessary (and if the piece has been well used it will be necessary) are not that difficult. Just MHO.
If this proves to be too much of a challenge you might just opt to buy only brand new revolvers and dispense with the idea of ever firing them. Problem solved and you can sell it as mint unfired someday for a substantial profit!
You really must take a look inside. Removing the sideplate, a thorough inspection and cleaning if necessary (and if the piece has been well used it will be necessary) are not that difficult. Just MHO.
If this proves to be too much of a challenge you might just opt to buy only brand new revolvers and dispense with the idea of ever firing them. Problem solved and you can sell it as mint unfired someday for a substantial profit!
pantannojack
US Veteran
I remove the SP to clean out the lathe curls, debies, and bluing rust that seems to escape the assembly and quality control process. A small amount of grease keeps the hammer block in place while gingerly pressing the SP back on. Don't force nuthing. I saw a desirable S prefix Highway Patrolman for sale with waffle head hammer marks once. A crying shame.
I have removed/replaced something on the order of 200+ sideplates on all manner of hand ejectors and top breaks over the past 60+ years with nary a problem----and nary a sign of any sort they've been off and on---and never involving a hammer of any sort!!
And when you're pressing the sideplate into place with your thumbs/fingers, and it stops before it should-----something ain't right. That's a clue telling you to remove it, and start over. With a later hand ejector, the something that ain't right is the hammer block needs some attention---up, down, or sideways. You're working with an inanimate and precision object. It'll do exactly what it's supposed to do when it's right. There's NEVER going to be anything wrong you can fix with a hammer----guarandamnteed!! Pretty much the only use for a hammer is to use the handle to get the sideplate OFF-----if the handle is made out of wood----or plastic---God forbid you should have a hammer with a plastic handle.
And when that sideplate is in place, and even all around, but not all the way down, that's pretty much to be expected every now and then----even often. It'll be all the way down after you run the screws in------with no extra effort to speak of.
Ralph Tremaine
And when you're pressing the sideplate into place with your thumbs/fingers, and it stops before it should-----something ain't right. That's a clue telling you to remove it, and start over. With a later hand ejector, the something that ain't right is the hammer block needs some attention---up, down, or sideways. You're working with an inanimate and precision object. It'll do exactly what it's supposed to do when it's right. There's NEVER going to be anything wrong you can fix with a hammer----guarandamnteed!! Pretty much the only use for a hammer is to use the handle to get the sideplate OFF-----if the handle is made out of wood----or plastic---God forbid you should have a hammer with a plastic handle.
And when that sideplate is in place, and even all around, but not all the way down, that's pretty much to be expected every now and then----even often. It'll be all the way down after you run the screws in------with no extra effort to speak of.
Ralph Tremaine
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kbm6893
Member
I've taken apart every used S&W revolver I have ever owned and seen Some nasty stuff in there. I bought a like new in box unfired 15-2 a few years ago. Stunning on the inside. Disgusting on the inside. Looked like years of oil squirted into the action. Like ear wax all over the place.
Putting it back on is easy. On the top part of it, there's a little nub that has to go under the frame. Once that is in lower the plate evenly. Thumb pressure is enough to set it in place. Then use the right screwdriver to put the screws in, and being sure not to mix them up. After that first cleaning, I've never felt the need to take it off again. But on a used gun with unknown maintenance? Take it off and see what's doing under there.
Putting it back on is easy. On the top part of it, there's a little nub that has to go under the frame. Once that is in lower the plate evenly. Thumb pressure is enough to set it in place. Then use the right screwdriver to put the screws in, and being sure not to mix them up. After that first cleaning, I've never felt the need to take it off again. But on a used gun with unknown maintenance? Take it off and see what's doing under there.
I take the same screwdriver that I used to pry the side plate off with to beat it back into place. 
I'm joking of course. I have a rubber hammer in my tool box that I use to tap the side plate back into place if needed once everything is lined up correctly.
I'm joking of course. I have a rubber hammer in my tool box that I use to tap the side plate back into place if needed once everything is lined up correctly.
