Replace firing pin on MIM Smiths?

[S&W1006]

Hate to say so but you bought it knowing what you were getting.

You could have purchased a real classic: one of the originals.

I have no sympathy.

Why do you feel the need to be an a**hole? He asked a legitimate question and your opinion about what you think about MIM parts was not asked for. If you don't like modern S&W's don't buy them and shut up when others mention them. I own 9 S&W revovlers and 7 are newer MIM parts and I shoot the hell out of them and there is nothing wrong with them. If you have nothing of value to add don't post when someone asks a legitimate question.

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[S&W1006]

The firing pin on my new 629 Classic appears to be a bit more pointed and have a bit less protrusion than the pins on my older Smiths.

Do any of you have experience with replacing the firing pin on the MIM Smiths?

Thanks,
Jim

Welcome to the forum. I see your question was answered please don't let the turds who think they need to bash the newer S&W's scare you away. Most of the people here are very helpful but unfortunately some feel they need to bash others who own the newer Smiths.

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[gsn]

Smith stopped pinning barrels for a reason, Smith went to mim parts for a reason and Smith uses personnel agencies rather than direct hires for the same reason-its less expensive to conduct business this way this cannot be disputed.

 

[retired2006]

Hate to say so but you bought it knowing what you were getting.

You could have purchased a real classic: one of the originals.

I have no sympathy.

You sir, are an A**hole. If you did not have an answer to the question asked, why reply at all !

 

[rbmorse]

Smith stopped pinning barrels for a reason, Smith went to mim parts for a reason and Smith uses personnel agencies rather than direct hires for the same reason-its less expensive to conduct business this way this cannot be disputed.

Who would dispute it? What does this have to do with firing pins?

 

[one eye joe]

I AM ACTUALLY EMBARRASSED THAT WE HAVE MEMBERS OF THIS FORUM, THAT WOULD REPLY WITH DISPARAGING REMARKS, TO THE LEGITIMATE REQUEST FOR HELP WITH A PROBLEM, POSTED BY A RELATIVELY NEW SHOOTER......

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU GUYS ? ? ? THERE WAS A TIME WHEN WE WOULD GREET NEW MEMBERS, AND ENCOURAGE THEM TO ASK ANY QUESTION THEY WANTED---EVEN IF THEY THOUGHT THAT IT WAS "STUPID". WE WOULD TRY OUR BEST TO HELP THEM OUT. MEANWHILE, THE OP'S QUESTION WAS NOT STUPID AT ALL......

NONE OF THE POSTS CRITICAL OF HIM HELPED HIM ONE BIT ! ! ! I PREFER NOT TO GO BACK THROUGH THE THREAD TO CALL OUT THE OFFENSIVE MEMBERS, BUT YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE. THE CLASSY THING TO DO WOULD BE TO APOLOGIZE TO THE OP, FOR YOUR RUDE REMARKS. OF COURSE, IF YOU WERE CLASSY GUYS, YOU WOULD NOT HAVE MADE THOSE REMARKS IN THE FIRST PLACE.....

KUDOS TO OUR STAND UP MEMBERS, THAT RIGHTFULLY IDENTIFIED THOSE OFFENSIVE POSTERS BY VERY UNFLATTERING TERMS. I FEEL THAT YOU SPEAK FOR THE VAST MAJORITY OF US....

 

[lefty_jake]

The subject of best practices for frame mounted firing pins comes up pretty frequently on this forum. I find there is enough information spread across many threads that is it is difficult to find concise and accurate information. Also, the best practices change periodically as pins from S&W and from aftermarket vendors get updated.

Post #2 in the thread below has information that I believe is accurate and up to date.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/312404-firing-pin-replacement.html

There are also other useful posts farther down in the thread.

The only thing I would add is that many people think the .495 S&W factory titanium pins are nearly ideal. As far as I know these pins all have hemispherical tips. If I received factory pins that were .497 long with hemispherical tips, I would definitely use them.

 

[RevLoverJim]

Again, thanks to those with positive, helpful comments.

Although I am new to the forum, I have several older S&W revolvers and have owned several several S&W semi autos. My purpose in buying one of the new revolvers is to gain first hand experience with what is required to achieve reliable ~6 pound DA trigger pulls with the new guns. I am making progress. So far two 629-6 with 6 to 6.5# DA and one 686-6 with 6# DA, all reliable with Federal primers (only). Other brands require ~7.5#.

Also have an older 617 with 6.5# DA--great fun gun

Oh, and I do know how to use the "ignore" button.........

Jim

 

[gsn]

rb, th op seems to be questioning the -design- of the gun my reply is intended to convey that both Smith the Company and what is being produced is quite different from when I was there-and this phenomena is not particular to Smith and Wesson.

I believe its fair to say that there really are NOT any machinists anymore but only machine operators/programmers. How this impacts overall quality I cannot say but I often hear this: 'any idiot can assemble an auto'-this comment is not intended to impugn anyone.

With regard to manufacturing in the US, as everything else that which was is long gone and is never coming back.

 

[Redlegvzv]

rb, th op seems to be questioning the -design- of the gun my reply is intended to convey that both Smith the Company and what is being produced is quite different from when I was there-and this phenomena is not particular to Smith and Wesson.

I believe its fair to say that there really are NOT any machinists anymore but only machine operators/programmers. How this impacts overall quality I cannot say but I often hear this: 'any idiot can assemble an auto'-this comment is not intended to impugn anyone.

...

It is true that modern machining technology uses computer-controlled machining rather than machining via human skill. Whether we like it or not, this is a good thing from the standpoint of the product that it produces. The "holy grail" of manufacturing for over a hundred years was to be able to produce devices, e.g. guns, that did not require hand-fitted parts but instead used standard parts. This sounds easy but in practice was very difficult. At first this was an unattainable dream, then a distant prospect, and now reality. The result is better guns at a lower price. While this may offend traditionalists who believe that a hand-fitted, craftsman-made gun was "better", in fact you have to realize that guns were hand-fitted and assembled simply because the state-of-the-art did not allow for modern methods. The new S&Ws are superb guns, regardless of what the traditionalists think, although they are certainly entitled to their opinions.

 

[gsn]

Guess my problem is that I compare everything to the mdl 64 that I received as a gift in '75-never fired it would always qualify with the issued Colts. The trigger puts anything new to shame ditto the fit/finish, then again sentiment can cloud reality.

 

[VanMan1961]

I did some testing on my 929 with the standard Performance Center firing pin (left) compared to the C&S extended firing pin (right). I actually found the stock Performance Center firing pin to work better. I think because the "pointy" profile takes less force to crush the primer against the anvil.

 

[RevLoverJim]

I found the same thing with my C&S pin. The C&S pin worked great after a "nose job"

 

[BLUEDOT37]

That's interesting. I hope to get to the range in a few days to try the C&S F/Ps. All the broad nose F/Ps have worked good for me so far.

I pulled the sideplate off of several of my other S&W revolvers the other day (adding reduced power rebound slide springs) & checked their F/Ps while in there. A couple had .486", .489" long F/Ps. Those guns have over a thousand rounds thru each & never had a misfire, or light strike, in them.

I guess small differences in the gross headspace (between the cylinder face & breach plate) has something to do with it. However, when I was trying to figure out why the one Apex F/P worked in my 625PC, but not the 325TR, I measure the gross headspace & there was only .002" difference (same for my 627PC & 327TRR8), which didn't seem enough to make a difference.

.

VanMan1961: How did you get those reading on crushing the primers? Roughly 1/2 lb. more force

.

 

[VanMan1961]

That's interesting. I hope to get to the range in a few days to try the C&S F/Ps. All the broad nose F/Ps have worked good for me so far.

I pulled the sideplate off of several of my other S&W revolvers the other day (adding reduced power rebound slide springs) & checked their F/Ps while in there. A couple had .486", .489" long F/Ps. Those guns have over a thousand rounds thru each & never had a misfire, or light strike, in them.

I guess small differences in the gross headspace (between the cylinder face & breach plate) has something to do with it. However, when I was trying to figure out why the one Apex F/P worked in my 625PC, but not the 325TR, I measure the gross headspace & there was only .002" difference (same for my 627PC & 327TRR8), which didn't seem enough to make a difference.

.

VanMan1961: How did you get those reading on crushing the primers? Roughly 1/2 lb. more force

.

I was testing sized and primed cases with no powder or bullets. I had the strain screw backed off a bit and would turn it in slightly until I could get 2 full moonclips to fire off ok in DA. Then I'd measure the trigger with my Lyman electronic trigger pull scale.

 

[F75gunslinger]

My guess would for why they changed the shape of the firing pin would be this..

In recent years we've been hearing about quite a few different ammo types with " hard primers ". If the firing pin has a more conical shape, the same amount of pressure will result in a deeper indent due to not having as much surface area at initial contact.

A rough comparison. Take a 4x4 and hit a piece of sheet steel with 10 pounds of force. Now do it again with the round end of a ball peen hammer. Which makes a sharper dent?

To the OP..... as long as the gun goes boom every time you pull the trigger I wouldn't be too worried about it. If it is ftf'ing, then clean and try that. THEN replace the firing pin if nothing else works.