SOLVED Help Identifying Low-Number Hand Ejector

If it were mine I would take a piece of heavy flat bar at least 1/2" thick, sit the dissembled gun on it upside down with front sight off the end of flat bar. Then I would place a second piece of bar the length of the frame window in the frame window and clamp it so the frame is firmly trapped to the longer bar. The with a piece of brass between barrel and bar right behind the front sight and tap 2 small wedges between brass and bar in opposing directions which would force the barrel to move back to where it belongs. With a long rod that just fits the bore and comes close to the firing pin bushing, you would be able to tell when it was right. If it needed some side to side movement, You could use a wedge and clamp near the front of barrel to take care of that.

When I speak of clamps I don't mean cheap light flimsy clamps. If I really want to clamp something I use Bridge clamps. A 2" bridge clamp is capable of a 6 ton clamping force. Might not need to go that far but I hate cheap clamps

It is steel, you can form it to some degree and a few small movements will not work harden it
 
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Kevin

I thought that I was sure that Roy told me, years ago, that a plating of copper was used first, and then the nickel was plated on next. Those thumb-nails that were posted at the end of one post show that same orange coloring in various spots where the nickel is peeling off.

Regards, Mike Priwer

Mike,

Years ago I heard or read that regarding using ammonia cleaners on nickel plated revolvers. Not sure what the source was.

So, all this time, I may have been accepting a myth!

Kevin
 
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