SOLVED Help Identifying Low-Number Hand Ejector

Well, if so, it seems they may have tried to shape it to their liking.

Thanks for the close-ups, as it is not easy to see in your other pictures. Is that brass or paint??

Also, great pictures of the cylinder/barrel gap. Certainly confirms that the barrel is quite a bit out of plumb! Keep us informed of the barrel straightening process.

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It is definitely copper, not paint. (Though I will triple check now that it's been brought up!)

It looks like it could be brazed on, considering the chances that the front sight was that low to begin with. I assumed the normal sized sight with some filing down had cut through the nickle to reveal that.

I will also have to do some digging on this forum for nickle finish preservation and care, especially with the insides flaking in places.

Thanks for the close-ups, as it is not easy to see in your other pictures. Is that brass or paint??

Also, great pictures of the cylinder/barrel gap. Certainly confirms that the barrel is quite a bit out of plumb! Keep us informed of the barrel straightening process.

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Be careful about removing metal. That copper coloring on the front sight may be an undercoat plating of copper, which was done prior to the nickel plating. If I am recalling this correctly, nickel was thought to plate better to copper, than to steel. It's also possible that this was done for only a short period of time!

Mike Priwer
 
I will not be removing metal at all from this.
It has all it needs.

Be careful about removing metal. That copper coloring on the front sight may be an undercoat plating of copper, which was done prior to the nickel plating. If I am recalling this correctly, nickel was thought to plate better to copper, than to steel. It's also possible that this was done for only a short period of time!

Mike Priwer
 
Be careful about removing metal. That copper coloring on the front sight may be an undercoat plating of copper, which was done prior to the nickel plating. If I am recalling this correctly, nickel was thought to plate better to copper, than to steel. It's also possible that this was done for only a short period of time!

Mike Priwer

Mike,

S&W did not copper wash prior to nickel plating. At least that is what I have gleaned on this site. Other companies, yes, just not S&W..

Kevin
 
Kevin

I thought that I was sure that Roy told me, years ago, that a plating of copper was used first, and then the nickel was plated on next. Those thumb-nails that were posted at the end of one post show that same orange coloring in various spots where the nickel is peeling off.

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
Kevin, are you able to open those images in their larger standard size?
I'm new to posting pictures here, and as you mentioned thumbnails, I'm worried I'm doing it wrong.

Kevin

I thought that I was sure that Roy told me, years ago, that a plating of copper was used first, and then the nickel was plated on next. Those thumb-nails that were posted at the end of one post show that same orange coloring in various spots where the nickel is peeling off.

Regards, Mike Priwer
 
Kevin

I thought that I was sure that Roy told me, years ago, that a plating of copper was used first, and then the nickel was plated on next. Those thumb-nails that were posted at the end of one post show that same orange coloring in various spots where the nickel is peeling off.

Regards, Mike Priwer

Doubtful Roy would have said something like that. It's not true.
 
Why does the top-strap have an orange color? Is it light reflection or something on the gun? I would soak that front sight in paint remover or wipe down with acetone to see if it is paint or plating?

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If it were mine I would take a piece of heavy flat bar at least 1/2" thick, sit the dissembled gun on it upside down with front sight off the end of flat bar. Then I would place a second piece of bar the length of the frame window in the frame window and clamp it so the frame is firmly trapped to the longer bar. The with a piece of brass between barrel and bar right behind the front sight and tap 2 small wedges between brass and bar in opposing directions which would force the barrel to move back to where it belongs. With a long rod that just fits the bore and comes close to the firing pin bushing, you would be able to tell when it was right. If it needed some side to side movement, You could use a wedge and clamp near the front of barrel to take care of that.

When I speak of clamps I don't mean cheap light flimsy clamps. If I really want to clamp something I use Bridge clamps. A 2" bridge clamp is capable of a 6 ton clamping force. Might not need to go that far but I hate cheap clamps

It is steel, you can form it to some degree and a few small movements will not work harden it
 
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Kevin

I thought that I was sure that Roy told me, years ago, that a plating of copper was used first, and then the nickel was plated on next. Those thumb-nails that were posted at the end of one post show that same orange coloring in various spots where the nickel is peeling off.

Regards, Mike Priwer

Mike,

Years ago I heard or read that regarding using ammonia cleaners on nickel plated revolvers. Not sure what the source was.

So, all this time, I may have been accepting a myth!

Kevin
 
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