Stainless flame cutting

[Peter M. Eick]

You are correct, a fouling cup is huge compared to the flame cut. I have a few examples, but frankly I would not add one to a revolver. Just use prudent reloading approach and the flame cut is a non-starter.

 

[sonora]

Thank you for the above info. Do most of you remove thelead deposit above cylinder gap? If so any more ideas,suggestions on the best way to remove it? Or is ok best left alone? Sonora

 

[tomcatt51]

Do most of you remove thelead deposit above cylinder gap?... .Or is ok best left alone?

I shoot competitively, put a bunch of rds thru my guns and am pretty lazy about doing more than necessary cleaning. The buildup on the top strap above and around the barrel stays 'til it's bad enough to chip off in hunks with a brass scraper/chisel. It doesn't affect anything. Chambers, on the other hand, are thoroughly cleaned before each match.

 

[Nemo288]

This is the only real flame cut I could find in any of my revolvers.
It took a lot of doing too. This is one of the first stainless supermags.
I got it in the fall of 1989.
My first few hundred loads were in reformed rifle brass using W680.
I am quite sure they were way over pressure looking at the chronograph results.
I have had to shim the cylinder a couple of times.
I, too, have gone to 4227 powder. Way more forgiving than the ball powder.
Like Mr. Eick's Maximum, the damage to the throat is actually more significant.

My Redhawk which is from 1983, I can see a mark but think it is mostly lead.
It has had thousands of full loads thru it, mostly using W296.

Looking at how thick the top straps are, I would say the flame cut is really a non-issue.
The burned throats; maybe.

+++
Nemo