Stripped screw removal ****( SEE Post 14 )*****

Narragansett

Narragansett

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I have a new Ruger MK4 22 Target model that has a factory stripped screw on the top of the barrel. It is an Allen hex head screw filling the mounting hole used for a sight rail. Actually there are 3 blanked screw holes. I noticed that one of the screws was vibrating outwards when firing the gun, so when I got home I pulled the screw, and put a dab of blue locktite on it. Then I decided to check the other 2 screws. One came out a bit hard, but it was not cross threaded. The last one, has a stripped Allen hex head. I have no idea of the condition of the threads.

So my question is, how to remove the screw. I do not have mini extractors, nor do I have a drill press for enlarging the hole if need be. This is like a size 4 or 5 screw.

I thought about epoxying an Allen key into the stripped hole to turn it

You know, in the 70's I bought a Ruger 77 and it had a part recall, in the mid 80's I bought a stainless super blackhawk, and under recoil the ejector, shroud and spring flew off the gun.

Now this issue with a 6 cent screw. And this is not the only issue on this gun. It was missing a part #39 screw that is part of the bolt release system. How did they test fire this unit?
 
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I had the same problem with my HIgh Standard. There are two on top for an optic mount and three on the bottom for barrel weights. 3 out of 5 stripped as soon as I tried to remove them. Those tiny Allen heads strip pretty easy. Mine is at the gunsmith right now. By the time I buy the stuff I need and figure it out it's probably cheaper to let the gunsmith do it. Those things are hard. Drilling is not easy. My luck I'd put a huge scratch in it.

I also hate failing and having to take it into the gunsmith, where the amateur gunsmithing is obvious.
 
Send that brand new gun back. It'll cost you on resale.

That said, sometimes you can get a torx bit to grab in a wallowed out Allen.

Drilling that tiny screw even on a drill press is going to be a challenge.
 
.......
I have been using Grab-It extractors for years, have not failed yet to remove a typical gunsmith sized fastener, usually a hex head stripped. Cordless drill, use reverse mode for drill & extraction. Done. Replace with torx style or real plug screw from Brownells or Hillman.
You can buy a set of 4 on Amazon for ~ $30.
IMG_0681 copy.JPGIMG_0682 copy.JPGIMG_0684 copy.JPGIMG_0686 copy.JPGIMG_0803.jpg
 
Narragansett said:
I have a new Ruger MK4 22 Target model that has a factory stripped screw on the top of the barrel. It is an Allen hex head screw filling the mounting hole used for a sight rail. Actually there are 3 blanked screw holes. I noticed that one of the screws was vibrating outwards when firing the gun, so when I got home I pulled the screw, and put a dab of blue locktite on it. Then I decided to check the other 2 screws. One came out a bit hard, but it was not cross threaded. The last one, has a stripped Allen hex head. I have no idea of the condition of the threads.

So my question is, how to remove the screw. I do not have mini extractors, nor do I have a drill press for enlarging the hole if need be. This is like a size 4 or 5 screw.

I thought about epoxying an Allen key into the stripped hole to turn it

You know, in the 70's I bought a Ruger 77 and it had a part recall, in the mid 80's I bought a stainless super blackhawk, and under recoil the ejector, shroud and spring flew off the gun.

Now this issue with a 6 cent screw. And this is not the only issue on this gun. It was missing a part #39 screw that is part of the bolt release system. How did they test fire this unit?
Click to expand...
If you are not comfortable doing it then call Ruger and send it back. Why should you mess with it?
If it is less than 2 years old, Ruger will send a shipping label.
 
Simply drill out the head of the screw using a bit the size of the shaft. The head will fall off and you'll be able to turn out the shaft with your fingers. It no longer has any tension. And you should be able to do this with zero damage

If it is corroded, use an appropriate plier to twist it loose. Again,it won't be hard.
 
jschmidt said:
Simply drill out the head of the screw using a bit the size of the shaft. The head will fall off and you'll be able to turn out the shaft with your fingers. It no longer has any tension. And you should be able to do this with zero damage

If it is corroded, use an appropriate plier to twist it loose. Again,it won't be hard.
Click to expand...
It's not a cap screw. The type of filler screw used is generally larger at the top to tighten in the screw hole so no loctite needed. But with a stripped socket is a though one. Drill press and careful work .
 
AJ said:
A drill bit and an E-Z Out would do it. Or send it back to Ruger to fix. Since it is new they should fix all the problems that you note.
Click to expand...
Whenever I’m considering buying a Used gun…. I’m always reassured if it’s a Ruger. Why?
Because Ruger never “warranties” their guns. They simply Fix them and return them to you.
I purchased a P97 ($250, 2010) from a store in Dickinson, Tx which was a personal turn-in from a local cop who had been issued a new pistol by the PD. When I got it home I noticed that it would occasionally mis-feed/jam. (That cop was lucky I suppose.)

I took it back the store and they returned it to Ruger. Two weeks later it came back with a new factory plastic box, cheap lock, and a manual for it.

That was 15 years ago and has had many hundreds of rounds thru it….. and it has never acted up since. I have no idea what Ruger did to it but it is a sweet shooting pistol. (Kept in a Triple-K flap holster.)
 
I thought about epoxying an Allen key into the stripped hole to turn it.

No comments on this idea?? I am thinking that the allen hole is still irregular inside and when the epoxy hardens, if it is nit cross threaded in, it should just turn right out?
 
bigggbbruce said:
If you have no intention of mounting anything using it. I'd just move on. If you need it fixed like factory 🤔 Ruger would be on my call list
Click to expand...
I have been in touch with them, and they responded late Friday. They indicated that they may want the gun, which is something I think I would prefer not to do. Why?? Because upon receipt of the gun, I checked the trigger out, and it was terrible. I immediately sent it to Volquartsen for an accurizing upgrade, which involved a new trigger and some bolt work. I also replaced the front sight. It also came without a #39 screw which is part of the bolt release mechanism. Wonder how they tested the gun? So it does not meet factory standards now. I have been told that they will put it back to factory specs if they work on it. I do not know that for sure. I now have a 2.3 pound trigger that is exceptional. I do not want that messed with.
 

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You can ask them to please return your parts that they take out. Their Customer Service may be able to give you some guidence there. Or take it to a local gunsmith and have him do it. Did Vaquartsen return your parts? If so put them back in and send it along to Ruger.
 
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