hivel37
US Veteran
That's nice. I like RB's. Now your new quest:
Finding right grips, stocks whichever. Good find.
Finding right grips, stocks whichever. Good find.
The LGS Says It's A Model 10...
- Thread starter mainegrw
- Start date
Oh I've been looking, lol... Nothing has popped up yet that fits the bill.
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
So new challenge, would like some thoughts on this:
The bore is pitted a few spots, I'm guessing probably from use of corrosive ammunition back in the day, but the rifling looked good for the most part, so I took it with me to the range today. This is not the first time I've had a gun with a pitted bore, I've actually had a couple over the years, and most shot just fine with the fairly anemic lead wadcutters I load.
First, as much as I like the look of those magna stocks, they dont fit my hand very well, so after firing a couple rounds, I swapped them out for a Pachmayr grip I had in my range bag. With the bigger grips, I was able to produce around a 2" group at 10 yards easily, and shot a couple of those groups during my trip.
When I got home however, I noticed that the bore had pretty bad lead fouling in it, end to end, almost to the point where I could barely see the rifling. This surprised me a bit, as I shared the box of ammo with my no dash 686 without the fouling carrying over. Before taking the 38 M&P to the range, she got a full cleaning and lubricating with a combination of Lucas Oil CLP and Rennaisance Wax, something I do to the bore and chambers of all of my guns with good success, so pretty sure the bore was plenty lubricated. The bore also felt comparably tight to that on my 686 when running patches through it, leading me to believe it's within specification, though i haven't measured it for confirmation.
The loading for my wadcutters was Hornady 148gr lead HBWC over 4.0gr HP-38, which is on the high side of the spectrum, yes, but this is a standard load for me that works well in other revolvers. This, or 2.8gr of 700X which is a little more mild. Because it's on the high side, I don't suspect gas blow-by as a culprit, unless the pitting could be a cause?
Thoughts?
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
The bore is pitted a few spots, I'm guessing probably from use of corrosive ammunition back in the day, but the rifling looked good for the most part, so I took it with me to the range today. This is not the first time I've had a gun with a pitted bore, I've actually had a couple over the years, and most shot just fine with the fairly anemic lead wadcutters I load.
First, as much as I like the look of those magna stocks, they dont fit my hand very well, so after firing a couple rounds, I swapped them out for a Pachmayr grip I had in my range bag. With the bigger grips, I was able to produce around a 2" group at 10 yards easily, and shot a couple of those groups during my trip.
When I got home however, I noticed that the bore had pretty bad lead fouling in it, end to end, almost to the point where I could barely see the rifling. This surprised me a bit, as I shared the box of ammo with my no dash 686 without the fouling carrying over. Before taking the 38 M&P to the range, she got a full cleaning and lubricating with a combination of Lucas Oil CLP and Rennaisance Wax, something I do to the bore and chambers of all of my guns with good success, so pretty sure the bore was plenty lubricated. The bore also felt comparably tight to that on my 686 when running patches through it, leading me to believe it's within specification, though i haven't measured it for confirmation.
The loading for my wadcutters was Hornady 148gr lead HBWC over 4.0gr HP-38, which is on the high side of the spectrum, yes, but this is a standard load for me that works well in other revolvers. This, or 2.8gr of 700X which is a little more mild. Because it's on the high side, I don't suspect gas blow-by as a culprit, unless the pitting could be a cause?
Thoughts?
Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Pitting can often result in leading. Not always,,but it can.
The hardness (or lack of) of the bullet, it's size in relation to the bore, the lube type, velocity it's being pushed,,they all have a say in it.
What works in one gun might not work so well in another. It's just that way with firearms and ammunition/loads.
The hardness (or lack of) of the bullet, it's size in relation to the bore, the lube type, velocity it's being pushed,,they all have a say in it.
What works in one gun might not work so well in another. It's just that way with firearms and ammunition/loads.
The Hollow base bullets are soft to expand the base and shoot well in sloppy bores. Your bore apparently doesn't need those. Switch to a solid base bullet and/or harder lead formula. Or lower the powder load.
Velle
Member
I'm not a collector. I'm a shooter. I buy what I like and I shoot what I buy. I've never been much of a S&W guy. I like old guns better than new guns. When somebody says RB I think round ball lol. Anyway I bought an old S&W at my LGS. The tag said it was a 1905. When I got home and researched it the serial numbers didn't match. Thanks to people here I found out it's an M&P circa 48-49 which is fine with me. I didn't get burned on the price. I don't think I've ever been burned by not knowing exactly what I was buying but there are times I still kick my own butt for turning down guns that after researching later were steals.
Last edited:
LERK is at the least confusing and at the most incorrect when you look across the history of Twentieth Century K frames.
Also, Now that I am buying pre-1905 made true Model 1902s, I am less a fan of calling all round butt K frames Model 1902. It confuses and dilutes the pre-chafing bushing, pre-5 screw Model 1902 revolver. Also, I am curious when the last round butt 4th Change was made??
As always, I am at your service to stir the pot.
Are you sure it's a J-Frame? 6 shot, .38 Spl sounds like a K-Frame to me but I am no expert. Correction: OOPS you were talking about the Tyler-T.
Nice revolver.
Last edited:
4", six shot J frame. That's a new one for me, but I'm just here to learn.
