To bob or not

joonbis

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My 625-10 revolver may become a carry but it seems that a bobbed hammer would be a plus. The only problem is I like the look better with the spur even though I never use it. Would this decrease the value or affect the firing? Anyone do their own? Thanks
 
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It would have a negative effect on the collector status.
If you want to do that I would just get another hammer and cut it, and save the original.
I may effect whether it will fire. It will lighten the hammer fall. Never know until you try, but if it's a carry gun, put a lot of rounds downrange before you carry it.
It would seem to me if the purpose is to stop it from snagging on the draw, that may not help all that much. It has sharp shouldered adjustable sights. They will catch on clothing as much as the hammer, or so it seems to me.
Jim
 
Just beware, IF you manage to cock the hammer when pulling the trigger
halfway or more....you will have problems dropping the hammer again without firing the gun, for a range gun yes...for a carry ? i would think twice.
 
That is what I did to my detective special; found a replacement hammer through numrich parts and had my local smith bob it. Very easy to swap out.
 
Lighten the hammer will increase the speed of the hammer due to less mass and that will make a harder strike on the primer ;)
 
It would have a negative effect on the collector status.
If you want to do that I would just get another hammer and cut it, and save the original.
I may effect whether it will fire. It will lighten the hammer fall. Never know until you try, but if it's a carry gun, put a lot of rounds downrange before you carry it.
It would seem to me if the purpose is to stop it from snagging on the draw, that may not help all that much. It has sharp shouldered adjustable sights. They will catch on clothing as much as the hammer, or so it seems to me.
Jim
Strongly agree with the first two sentences.

AFAIK, KNigge is correct about hammer weight. This is probably why I have NEVER had an ignition problem from bobbing a hammer, and neither has the NYPD in a test of a few dozen J-frame revolvers.

I don't think that the 625-10 has adjustable sights, nor are they sharp-shouldered or high-profile.

I believe that one should also regard Knigge's caution concerning a cocked gun. One should remove the SA cocking notch from the bobbed hammer to avoid this problem.
 
It would have a negative effect on the collector status.
If you want to do that I would just get another hammer and cut it, and save the original.
I may effect whether it will fire. It will lighten the hammer fall. Never know until you try, but if it's a carry gun, put a lot of rounds downrange before you carry it.
It would seem to me if the purpose is to stop it from snagging on the draw, that may not help all that much. It has sharp shouldered adjustable sights. They will catch on clothing as much as the hammer, or so it seems to me.
Jim
The 625-10 and 625-11 are Scandium framed, fixed sight revolvers chambered in 45ACP and 45 Long Colt respectively. The adjustable sight is a non-issue in this scenario

625%20pair.jpg


The reduced mass of the bobbed hammer might be at issue since the 625-10 shipped with the PC's bossed mainspring for a lighter action. Check your load for reliability after the conversion, you might need to switch back to a standard mainspring.

I personally would bob a CC hammer hammer and blue the end for corrosion resistance, keeping the flash chromed hammer intact.
 
Getting another one to bob sounds like a good plan. This gun has a fantastic trigger, but when I cock it for single action it is like a hair trigger. I mean it only needs to travel maybe 1/8" and very light. Is this the way they are or has this one had a trigger job. I am not complaining because I alway use the double action mode. I could see that in a stress situation it could be bad.
 
Getting another one to bob sounds like a good plan. This gun has a fantastic trigger, but when I cock it for single action it is like a hair trigger. I mean it only needs to travel maybe 1/8" and very light. Is this the way they are or has this one had a trigger job. I am not complaining because I alway use the double action mode. I could see that in a stress situation it could be bad.
Anything over 2.5# can be mechanically safe, although I personally find anything under 3 or 3.5 a little touchy. In a stress situation, I consider DA much safer, and might even entertain arguments as to the superiority of the weight-stacking Colt DA pull.
 
May I ask a question? A 625-10 is a pretty fair sized handgun for CC, so would it matter if the hammer is bobbed or not? That being said, I bobbed the hammer for my model 60 (my EDC for a long time) and I had my gunsmith leave the single action intact. While a little tricky and only for range sessions, I see no problem with doing that. But that's just me.
 
I am not sure I understand. How did you bob it yet keep the single action option unless a little was left. As far as cc, I would only carry it under a jacket or large shirt. I haven't got a holster yet. I have read where several have cc this gun successfully. I guess I just like revolvers.
 
I don't do bobbed hammers at all for a couple of reasons. I like choices and loathe the appearance of bobbed hammers.
 
Many thumb breaks or safety straps look like they need the hammer spur intact, to properly secure the revolver.
 
Funny you said that about thumb breaks because I may order a couple holsters, one with thumb break? I can't remember exactly how it went or the formula, but read that less weight with faster strikes verses heavier weight and slower strikes didn't change the impact of the strike much. The article was written by some engineering expert. Hope was correct wording.
 
Most of my J frames have been bobbed for CCW reasons. I leave enough of the hammer there so I can cock it if needed. 98-99 percent of the time I shoot double action.

If you buy an open top holster there is no need for a hammer spur, but if you buy a thumb strap you can always replace the snap and have it moved so the strap works.

Tony P.
 
On my old bobbed Mod.60 I had the top of the hammer checkered. It's a good idea to place your thumb between the hammer and the rear of the frame if you have to de-cock,better yet ,train to not use the single action mode. Just because it's capable doesn't mean you have to use it.
On holsters needing a safety strap get one made for a hammerless model of the same frame size or modify yours so the strap goes around the back of the trigger guard.
I always tried to keep in mind what Jeff Cooper said,"any fool can rise to his own level of incompetence", when using a bobbed hammer gun on the street. Muscle memory,train to retain,even under stress. JM not so HO. Nick
 
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I have no idea why you would want a thumb break on a holster for this revolver.

Use a speed scabbard.

I have the one that S&W offers on their website.

There is not enough weight for this revolver to pop out of a speed scabbard on it's own unless you plan on wrestling on the ground with somebody.
 
There is not enough weight for this revolver to pop out of a speed scabbard on it's own unless you plan on wrestling on the ground with somebody.

As a former LEO, I would just like to say that you may not plan to wrestle somebody, but you should be prepared for the possibility. I'm a big advocate of some sort of retention device on the holster. Stay safe.
 
i have a ruger sp101 i bobbed the hammer on. it pulls from a holster with a sweatshirt without catching now. it was troublesome before.
 

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