Would like to ask christcorp for some help

[PSP-Ret]

christcorp,
I was reading all your posts about changing buffers/springs etc. and you seem to know what you're talking about. Stop me anytime if I'm on the wrong track cause I'm new to the AR platform but I think outside the box sometimes good sometimes not so good.
You were saying about putting a stronger spring for the buffer if the weapon is over gassed. I have the S&W M&P 15 PSX which is the piston model. Mine "may" be over gassed. Only reason I'm saying that is I get a small dent in the side of my empties hitting the deflector. Anyway, lets assume it is over gassed. Using the concept of the wooden plug in a shotgun to limit number of shells, can I just put a short, say 2 inch long wood dowel same diameter as the spring in the back of the tube and then the spring would be shorter and stronger. The bolt doesn't go that far into the buffer tube to hit a short piece of wood way back in the back does it????
Would that work instead of changing springs. I would have to experiment with a few lengths of dowel til I get it right
Am I thinking right here or is it not a good idea???
I'll be watching for you replys.

 

[christcorp]

To be honest, I don't know much about the piston driven rifles. But I would assume that it too uses a buffer and a spring. If you think it's overgassed, then the objective is to either:

1) Reduce the amount of gas

or

2) Create more resistance.

If possible, I suggest creating more resistance. Now; you can do this with a heavier buffer; a heavier buffer spring; or both. If the rifle is normal to a direct gas system, I would say to get a heavier buffer. The heaviest is only about $30-$35.

Now I'm not sure I like the idea of a piece of wood; but if you're talking about a piece of wood inside the tube at the back of the stock (Part closest to your shoulder), whereby you are effective SHORTENING the spring, and thus creating more resistance, then yes, that would possibly work. But I'm still not sure I would go that method.

S&W, as well as other manufacturers, spend a lot of time in their R&D designs. So if the rifle is over-gassed, we aren't talking by much. In the traditional gas carbines, they use the standard carbine buffer. There are 3 heavier sizes in traditional buffers. "H", "H2", "H3" and there's also a number of other buffers out there. I would spend the money on an H3 buffer. Reason being; if it works, great. If it's too heavy, then you can open it up, as well as your traditional carbine buffer (If that's what it uses), and mix and match the weights to put together an "H" or an "H2" without having to buy them individually.

No I am making a major assumption here. I've owned a few AR's, but never a piston. I'm assuming the buffer and spring are about the same as in a traditional gas system.

So basically, I would try increasing resistance with natural replacement parts before fabricating. If no matter what you do, cases still keep getting dented, I think you have some other issue.

Also; if you wanted to get creative, I would get a piece of flat rubber molding or weather stripping that had adhesive on it. I would cut a small piece to fit on the rifle's deflector. This way the empties are hitting a "Softer" area and less chance of denting. Dented cases are very common on Saiga .223 (AK-47 chambered in 5.56/.223). Adding padding on the cover stops the dents.

Anyway; hope I was of some help. later.... mike.....

 

[Dragon88]

Where do your empties eject? Are you having any malfunctions? Here we go again with the "over-gassed" myth. If your rifle is shooting fine then your best course of action is to leave it alone and stop over-thinking it.

Putting things in your buffer tube to shorten the system is not a good idea. Decades worth of research and development will not be improved by a piece of wood dowel in the buffer tube...

 

[BeginingOfTheEnd]

I've never put anything in my buffer tube

 

[PSP-Ret]

Mike,
Thank you for getting back to me so quick. Yes my buffer and spring are the same on the piston model as the regular gas model.
Also Dragon, my emptys are landing about 6 0r 7 feet at about 4 o'clock.
BTW Mike I did put a small piece of the soft side of velcro on the deflector as told by another guy on another forum. However I didn't shoot it again with that on so I don't know if it will cure my denting. The dent is very small but still bugs me.
Than you guys for giving your opinion. I may still experiment with a piece of wood just to see what happens and then get a new spring or buffer if need be.

 

[BeginingOfTheEnd]

Well for reference mine go about 4 feet out at the 2-3 o'clock position.

 

[christcorp]

Mike,
Thank you for getting back to me so quick. Yes my buffer and spring are the same on the piston model as the regular gas model.
Also Dragon, my emptys are landing about 6 0r 7 feet at about 4 o'clock.
BTW Mike I did put a small piece of the soft side of velcro on the deflector as told by another guy on another forum. However I didn't shoot it again with that on so I don't know if it will cure my denting. The dent is very small but still bugs me.
Than you guys for giving your opinion. I may still experiment with a piece of wood just to see what happens and then get a new spring or buffer if need be.

I would say that mine goes about the 5-7 feet (Hard to tell exactly); and it goes close to the 4:00 position. So your ejection is fine. Distance is fine. That's about normal. (As normal can be). It's not an exact science. You just don't want it too much straight back or straight forward. As for the block of wood, I still don't know about that. You're not wanting to change the resistance by much. Only a few ounces. However; I would try the velcro bumper that you made first and see if the cases are still denting off of the deflector. Best of luck. mike....

 

[CBR240]

I have a M&P15OR so have no experience with the M&P15PSX.

But I had read that one of the features of that system is it has a 3 position adjustable gas block valve.

Yep, I did see that, here is one review that says exactly that:
Piston-Driven Smith

From there:
... and the gas regulator knob at the front of the gas block is adjustable to three different positions for the use of different-pressure ammunition and accessories (such as suppressors and grenade launchers).

Check your owners manual, and find the proper setting for the Ammo you are using. I wouldn't put anything in your buffer tube, besides the spring and the buffer

 

[christcorp]

Excellent find CBR. I definitely have no experience with a piston driven AR. It's cool that it can be adjusted. If the OP didn't know that; then that would definitely be the first option to try.

 

[PSP-Ret]

CBR240 and christcorp,
Thanks for the update. I did read that in my owners manual about gas adjustment but I forgot all about it. With the knob in the 12 o'clock ***. it is normal for most ammo optimal gas passage.
in the 1 o'clock ***. it is reduced gas port mode by 60%
in the 3 o'clock ***. Single shot mode. bolt will not cycle and must manually cycle bolt to extract empty
in the 9 o'clock ***. is the takedown position.
The next time I'm at the range I will try the 1 o'clock ***. reduced gas mode and see how it throws the brass and everything else.
Thanks again, I'm still learning about these rifles thanks to guys like you.

 

[CBR240]

Great PSP-Ret, I hope it helps.
I just remembered reading that, and was amazed I could find it.
christcorp seems to actually understand buffer weights, ... I just found the article I enjoy reading of his experiments.
Let us know how it works out, I think it's an interesting option to have (the adjustable gas).