Is this RUST on the Stainless Slide?!!!

[yeti]

Justin,
If you insist on a foam case for storage consider some silcone gun socks.

 

[cal50]

A quick tip on stainless steel- If a magnet sticks to it , it contains iron and can and will rust, it just takes longer. Almost all gun use stainless steel like 17-4 PH and similar is heat treatable and contains added carbon & iron.

Non-magnetic stainless steels ( like 300 series ) is not heat treatable but is totally non-magnetic and does not rust or stain easily. I have not seen any gun parts made from 300 series. This is often used for food processing and pharmaceutical grade processing apps.


When in doubt about your stainless steel use a magnet and if it sticks it can rust.

 

[Jyezahn]

Seriously, some 0000 or even 000 steel wool and CLP will take that right off without marring the finish.

 

[CA Escapee]

Years ago I dated a woman who owned a S&W 640. She asked me one day if I could clean it and her other pistol, a Glock 23. I said, sure, and she brought them into the kitchen. The 640 was in a small fanny pack and as soon as I took it out I realized the fanny pack had been wet.

The pistol had crusty black spots on it. Light rubbing with Rem oil and 0000 steel wool took the crusty stuff off, but the black spots were there to stay.

She was into long distance running out in the wilderness and the pack would get wet from her sweat, over and over again. She just left the pistol in the pack without ever looking at it.

Bill

 

[CA Escapee]

I noticed something interesting in the OP's photos. The slide looks gray, not black like my M&P's. Has the black finish been removed? The spotting only appears to be on the slide; there doesn't appear to be any spotting on the hood of the barrel or the sights. I wonder if it was spotted after the machining process and then just parkerized or what ever process S&W uses to make the slides black. (And no, Melonite doesn't make the slide black.)

Could it be that what ever process S&W uses along the way does leave the slide spotted and we just can't see it because it is finished as black Stainless?

Hmmm...

Bill

 

[KAC]

Whatever you do, don't use steel wool on stainless, unless you want even more rust. The steel wool will embed into the stainles and cause a whole lot of rust. I would just have it bead blasted, like Bruce Lee M said.

 

[cal50]

Scotchbrite pads or stainless steel wool would be the choice to use on stainless steel.

 

[N4KVE]

Justin,
If you insist on a foam case for storage consider some silcone gun socks.

I have a Sig 220, & a Colt 1911 that have been in the typical carry cases with foam rubber since the mid 80's, & there is no rust. I do live in Florida, & once a year I wipe each gun down with Remoil. They both look brand new. GARY

 

[Florida J Frame]

If you try to clean it use brass, bronze or copper wool not steel wool. Cleaning stainless with steel wool leaves microscopic bits of steel in the finish that will rust.

 

[Jyezahn]

Whatever you do, don't use steel wool on stainless, unless you want even more rust. The steel wool will embed into the stainles and cause a whole lot of rust. I would just have it bead blasted, like Bruce Lee M said.

If you try to clean it use brass, bronze or copper wool not steel wool. Cleaning stainless with steel wool leaves microscopic bits of steel in the finish that will rust.

That's odd, because I've not had any rust on my stainless steel parts of various guns that I used 0000 steel wool on. Mileage may vary I guess.

 

[Capt_Destro]

Hit it with mothers polish? It helped my old revolver a lot.

 

[Bkreutz]

I noticed something interesting in the OP's photos. The slide looks gray, not black like my M&P's. Has the black finish been removed? The spotting only appears to be on the slide; there doesn't appear to be any spotting on the hood of the barrel or the sights. I wonder if it was spotted after the machining process and then just parkerized or what ever process S&W uses to make the slides black. (And no, Melonite doesn't make the slide black.)

Could it be that what ever process S&W uses along the way does leave the slide spotted and we just can't see it because it is finished as black Stainless?

Hmmm...

Bill

I agree, it looks like the original owner (or one of them) polished the slide and in doing so removed the corrosion protection from it. I don't store any handgun in a closed plastic case or a cloth gun case. I have zip up cases for my handguns and when I bring them back from the range and finish cleaning them I put them in the safe with the case unzipped. This lets air circulate. At least this is what I do, I don't want to trap moisture inside a case and then stuff a piece of metal in there. Asking for trouble IMO.

 

[amazingflapjack]

S&W sends them out wrapped in their famous oil paper in the S&W boxes. The foam, I suspect, is there to protect the gun , and hold it stable. I store in foam cases, but I have Flitzed them and wrapped them in old, clean, T-shirt rags first. I would send the subject gun back for them to get it right.

 

[LoadEmUp]

I was reading some threads (here and elsewhere) about using Citric Acid for brass cleaning while reloading.
The following posts discussed using Citic Acid for other metals as well and included this info: "
Citric acid will passivate stainless steel, and also copper. A 10% solution at 140* will passivate stainless steel tools/parts in one hour. I use citric acid to passivate stainless tools that will be used in a marine environment. Citric acid is also a very powerful rust remover. Soak rusty steel tools in a hot 10% solution and the rust will be removed and dissolved."

Citric acid brass cleaner

I have not tried this myself, but you may want to read up on this approach.

BTW - Passivate means "make more corrosion resistant"

 

[3hounds]

I use renaissance or Johnson's paste wax on my firearms.

No oil, just give them a couple coats of wax.

3

 

[3hounds]

The M&P did come in two tone with the silver slide.

They had rust problems with them also.

3

 

[Plinker99]

I have a shotgun that I left in a foam case for 10 years. Got it out the other day and it looked similar. I figured the bluing was shot. Wiped it down with a silicon rag and it looks PERFECT!

I'd try an oil soaked cloth and elbow grease before I used any abrasive.

I've used a product on my wife's stainless steel pots and pans and on the appliances called "Barkeeper's Friend". it seems to react to the nickel in the stainless and really brings out the shine. Never thought of using it on a pistol.

 

[Nframecollector]

Stainless is rust resistant.........not rustproof!

 

[Kanewpadle]

Whatever you do, don't use steel wool on stainless, unless you want even more rust. The steel wool will embed into the stainles and cause a whole lot of rust. I would just have it bead blasted, like Bruce Lee M said.

Not if you do it right. Been doing it for years. An old gunsmith trick.

 

[S+W Newbie]

Not if you do it right. Been doing it for years. An old gunsmith trick.

Are you going to share this magic of which you speak?