S&W lock hole filler plug?

caryg

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After searching this and other forums I was wondering if anyone ever come up with a way to fill the small hole left when removing the dreaded lock. Not the key hole but the small hole left when removing the entire lock itself. Not interested in glue, epoxy, screws, etc. But a easy no nonsense solution to the the hole itself. Thanks.
 
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The first time I read about somebody wanting to remove the internal lock from a revolver I asked my wife (the prosecutor) if an attorney could make an issue of that if the gun were ever used in a shooting. She just smiled that lawyer smile. You know, the big toothy grin that reminds you of a great white shark.
 
The wrong hole?????

People just don't understand what you are trying to ask. The very small hole left when removing the part that say's locked. Not the bigger hole. If I was to worry about all the lawyer's and their so called legal expertise I wouldn't be able to sleep. Just a simple question, Anyone figure a cheap effective way to do this? If not than thanks anyway.
 
People just don't understand what you are trying to ask. The very small hole left when removing the part that say's locked. Not the bigger hole. If I was to worry about all the lawyer's and their so called legal expertise I wouldn't be able to sleep. Just a simple question, Anyone figure a cheap effective way to do this? If not than thanks anyway.

I've looked all over my two lock guns, and I only see one hole associated with the lock. The one you stick the key in . . .
 
Wow, I give up, a picture is worth a thousand dollars. If there is a cheap effective way. Thanks again.
 
Just for clarification, as I understand it, you are talking about the "slit" left behind by the missing flag, right next to the left side of the hammer?

I have not seen anything offered that will plug that "hole". Sorry.
I have "The Plug" installed in my IL S&W's, but have left the opening for the flag open, it just don't bother me as much as having a "child safety" on my revolvers... ;)

If the lock itself don't bother you, you could just file the locking tab off the flag and leave everything in place.
 
If I was to worry about all the lawyer's and their so called legal expertise I wouldn't be able to sleep.

I agree. I think an internal lock removal would be the least of my worries if I were ever involved in a shooting.
 
Thanks for the response. I guess no one has figured out a way to hide the hole, slit, or what ever you call it. Maybe I can be the first, Thanks again.
 
If you are talking the little pivot hole on a J frame, I take a stationary hole punch, punch a hole out of a bumper sticker, then put it over the hole. I thought I would have to replace them a lot, but the same stickers have been on my two edc centennials for over a year.

They are both black centennials, so I used a black sticker. Being centennials the don't have the slit next to the hammer.
 
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If you are talking the little pivot hole on a J frame, I take a stationary hole punch, punch a hole out of a bumper sticker, then put it over the hole. I thought I would have to replace them a lot, but the same stickers have been on my two edc centennials for over a year.

He's talking about the milled out portion of the frame, to the left of the hammer as you're looking from behind, that the flag occupies. It's not a hole or a slit . . .
 
I suspect the OP is asking about what I would call the "pivot hole", the one that's ~1/16" in diameter, about a half inch "behind" the big hole where the key mechanism comes through. The part that actually blocks the hammer from moving, when you turn the key to lock the gun, is a stud on a plate, and that plate has a small pin that fits into and rotates in the pivot hole. If you want to fill that hole once you remove the lock parts you're going to have to have some way to fix the pin/rod/whatever that you use to plug the hole, so it doesn't fall out (or worse, in, where it will find its way into the mechanicals of the lockwork.) The usual ways to fix a pin in a hole are adhesives or threads, both of which are rejected.

I went through the same mental exercise when I took the lock out of a 638. I used a PLUG to fill the big hole. But the only way I could think of to fill up the pivot hole without permanently affecting the frame was to make a plate that would fill up the cutout in the frame (next to the hammer) that the original lock's operating plate moved in. My replacement plate would have a pivot pin in the proper place, but would NOT have the stud on the back that blocks the hammer. The replacement plate would be held in place by the hammer, and the little pivot pin would fill up the pivot hole.

In the end I decided it would be a LOT of work to make and fit something that precisely, so I have an open pivot hole in my 638 frame.
 
I suspect the OP is asking about what I would call the "pivot hole", the one that's ~1/16" in diameter, about a half inch "behind" the big hole where the key mechanism comes through. The part that actually blocks the hammer from moving, when you turn the key to lock the gun, is a stud on a plate, and that plate has a small pin that fits into and rotates in the pivot hole. If you want to fill that hole once you remove the lock parts you're going to have to have some way to fix the pin/rod/whatever that you use to plug the hole, so it doesn't fall out (or worse, in, where it will find its way into the mechanicals of the lockwork.) The usual ways to fix a pin in a hole are adhesives or threads, both of which are rejected.

I went through the same mental exercise when I took the lock out of a 638. I used a PLUG to fill the big hole. But the only way I could think of to fill up the pivot hole without permanently affecting the frame was to make a plate that would fill up the cutout in the frame (next to the hammer) that the original lock's operating plate moved in. My replacement plate would have a pivot pin in the proper place, but would NOT have the stud on the back that blocks the hammer. The replacement plate would be held in place by the hammer, and the little pivot pin would fill up the pivot hole.

In the end I decided it would be a LOT of work to make and fit something that precisely, so I have an open pivot hole in my 638 frame.

I am beginning to understand my confusion. My Governor does not have that hole, but my 60-14 does . . .
 
Close up picture of the left side of a modern J-frame. See the lock hole? See the second little hole to the right? That's little hole is were the flag pivot resides. Remove the flag and that little hole is empty. This is what the OP was asking about. Does this clear it up? AFAIK only J-frames are this way. It ain't about a 'slot" or "channel". It's definitely a hole. :rolleyes:

Smith-Wesson-Model-60-3.jpg
 
Close up picture of the left side of a modern J-frame. See the lock hole? See the second little hole to the right? That's little hole is were the flag pivot resides. Remove the flag and that little hole is empty. This is what the OP was asking about. Does this clear it up? AFAIK only J-frames are this way. It ain't about a 'slot" or "channel". It's definitely a hole. :rolleyes:

Yeah, a Governor doesn't have that second little hole, hence the hullaballoo on my part. Cleared up for me yesterday when I looked at my 60-14 . . .
 
Kernel - I hate to tell you, but your IL on the J frame looks rusty. You must not be using it enough ;)

and thanks for the photos and description to help clear this mess up!
 
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