Bill, I was just recalling that on another one of your projects you added the loaded chamber inspection hole, in the hood, that the latter models had. Any reason you didn't do it on this one? Just curious.
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.
10mm Conversion Lab - C'mon in Y'all
- Thread starter BMCM
- Start date
OP
It comes down to wide hood vs. narrow hood. This barrel is of the narrow hood variety. I don't have any issue cutting a window in a wide hood however, to cut a chamber loaded port in a narrow hood would take away a third or more of the bearing surface where the hood or tab contacts the breechface. I think it best to leave the narrow hoods be.
Cheers
Bill
vigil617
US Veteran
A little late with this comment, but I think your solution of milling out the indents along the spine instead of trying to flatten them from inside was a masterful stroke. As was your choice of the radiused end mill instead of the 90-degree.
Those are examples of the way a true machinist thinks. You make it look easy. Kudos!
Those are examples of the way a true machinist thinks. You make it look easy. Kudos!
Turn & Bank
Member
BMCM and those interested! You know who you are!
First, let it be understood that I'm not trying to take over this thread I just am throwing out my experiences. I want to see the outcome of Bill's project as much as anyone as I have a "1013" but mine is giving me fits.
OK I tried the Wilson 22# spring. Installs nice and is easy to rack. You know Wyoming is a big state but this thing, with the 22# spring, throws shells into Montana and I hate crossing the line just for shells! Really they land about 18'+ away at 4:00. The ammo was PPU 180 gr. JHP. Probably a lot like the Remington green and white. I didn't even try the Winchester 175 Silver tips, probably end up in Washington state!
Now with the 23# nested spring every thing lands about 12'(+-) away and that is with PPU 180's and Winchester Silver Tips 175, and the with the Sig 180 gr. FMJ which felt a little hotter than everything else.
Oh, on SOME of the brass there is a slight dent or scrap on the case face that appears to be from the extractor as the slide closes over the shell. Maybe that nested set up is just to powerful!?
I do have some 30 coil 22# springs coming so I can mimic whatever Bill ends up with. Yes I like the flat wire springs but I haven't found the right one yet!
Thanks for listening, Take Care
T & B
For those who haven't seen Bill's thread on "Melting Down" a 4516, do yourself a favor and check it out! This guy's not just a machinist, he's an "artiste" with a lathe, mill, and hand tools!
First, let it be understood that I'm not trying to take over this thread I just am throwing out my experiences. I want to see the outcome of Bill's project as much as anyone as I have a "1013" but mine is giving me fits.
OK I tried the Wilson 22# spring. Installs nice and is easy to rack. You know Wyoming is a big state but this thing, with the 22# spring, throws shells into Montana and I hate crossing the line just for shells! Really they land about 18'+ away at 4:00. The ammo was PPU 180 gr. JHP. Probably a lot like the Remington green and white. I didn't even try the Winchester 175 Silver tips, probably end up in Washington state!
Now with the 23# nested spring every thing lands about 12'(+-) away and that is with PPU 180's and Winchester Silver Tips 175, and the with the Sig 180 gr. FMJ which felt a little hotter than everything else.
Oh, on SOME of the brass there is a slight dent or scrap on the case face that appears to be from the extractor as the slide closes over the shell. Maybe that nested set up is just to powerful!?
I do have some 30 coil 22# springs coming so I can mimic whatever Bill ends up with. Yes I like the flat wire springs but I haven't found the right one yet!
Thanks for listening, Take Care
T & B
For those who haven't seen Bill's thread on "Melting Down" a 4516, do yourself a favor and check it out! This guy's not just a machinist, he's an "artiste" with a lathe, mill, and hand tools!
OP
Just a thought... Make sure you have a factory full power (20#) mainspring in the gun. There are some reduced power mainsprings that fit these plus some of the DAO variants came with a 17# spring which could have found it's way into your pistol. Also, It's not unheard of for folks to install a reduced power mainspring to lighten the DA trigger (kind of a poor man's action job).
Control of initial slide velocity is shared between the mainspring & the recoil spring so if your mainspring isn't "up to snuff" you'll wind up with violent ejection among other problems. That's probably where I'd look first.
Ahh Wait! I just though of something. The ejector in these old single stack 40s including the CS40 variants is part number 234340000. However, all the 10mm guns use part number 230190000 which is a tad shorter and is common to all the 45xx & 10xx models.
Here's a comparison shot. 4013 et al. on top, 10xx & 45xx bottom.
I'm pretty pleased with how my "1014" works but, I still think there is room for improvement in the ejection so.....
Presto Change O. Out with the 234340000 and in goes the 230190000.
I'll not change anything else until I have noted any difference in ejection pattern with the Remington green & Wilson 22# combo.
Anyway, along with the new ejector, I have cut & dressed three more springs for testing with some warmer loads. In addition to the Wilson spring I have ISMI 22# springs trimmed to 24, 26 & 28 coil and 200 rounds of Winchester 175s plus another 50 of the Remington 180s.
Range day tomorrow
Cheers
Bill
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Turn & Bank
Member
Bill
Hey thanks for the heads up on the main spring, I'll get a new one if they're out there. I have a 1006 so I'll do a quick swap with the ejector and see if that helps. In the meantime I have several 30 coil 22# springs coming so I can do whatever you find when you test yours.
Take Care,
T & B
I'm going to change one thing at a time otherwise I'll never know which works. To soon old, to late smart!
Hey thanks for the heads up on the main spring, I'll get a new one if they're out there. I have a 1006 so I'll do a quick swap with the ejector and see if that helps. In the meantime I have several 30 coil 22# springs coming so I can do whatever you find when you test yours.
Take Care,
T & B
I'm going to change one thing at a time otherwise I'll never know which works. To soon old, to late smart!
Turn & Bank, I was going to suggest you go to an extra power mainspring, to add a little more resistance to the slide recoiling, but I forgot that Wolff doesn't make one for the 4013's (Group "B"-Short), only the Group "A"-Long. 
I recently bought a nice 4586 that I'm going to be shooting 45 Super from & in addition to the extra power recoil spring I'm going to use an extra power mainspring. I've done this on my 1911 too.
As far as casings going into sub-orbit, I haven't hit on a combo that keeps full power loads close. You just have to plan on hunting them down afterwards.
.
I recently bought a nice 4586 that I'm going to be shooting 45 Super from & in addition to the extra power recoil spring I'm going to use an extra power mainspring. I've done this on my 1911 too.
As far as casings going into sub-orbit, I haven't hit on a combo that keeps full power loads close. You just have to plan on hunting them down afterwards.
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OP
I have a scheme in mind to tinker with mainspring weights using a 25# flatwire mainspring. I just have to make custom a plunger to fit it since it's just a bit too fat for the factory plunger. But that's for another time... At this point I'm not even sure it's needed. I'll have a better idea after tomorrow's outing.
Cheers
Bill
Turn & Bank
Member
BLUEDOT37 & Bill
Thanks for the info guys. Can't find an extra power mainspring only the standard weight(?)and have ordered it through Numrich. Also ordered the 1006 ejector as Bill thought that might help. I don't really mind hiking for the brass I just assumed that anything going that far is not good for the pistol.
BLUEDOT37
I too bought a 4506 for using with 45 super so I'll be interested in what you end up with for that set up. A PM is fine if you want to discuss it.
Can't wait to hear what Bill finds today.
Thanks again, Take Care,
T & B
Thanks for the info guys. Can't find an extra power mainspring only the standard weight(?)and have ordered it through Numrich. Also ordered the 1006 ejector as Bill thought that might help. I don't really mind hiking for the brass I just assumed that anything going that far is not good for the pistol.
BLUEDOT37
I too bought a 4506 for using with 45 super so I'll be interested in what you end up with for that set up. A PM is fine if you want to discuss it.
Can't wait to hear what Bill finds today.
Thanks again, Take Care,
T & B
vigil617
US Veteran
Master Chief, I and I'm sure others here who've never shot 10mm would be interested to know how you developed this interest in the cartridge. Frankly, I was surprised to read that you're considering switching to your converted 10mm pistol as your EDC from your 45ACP's. All of us here value your opinions about these matters, and if 10mm is your choice in a self-defense round, I for one feel the need to sit up and take notice. 
I've been a 45ACP guy at heart, though I toyed with 40S&W at one point, but I eventually "ran home to mama" and have been dedicated to big, fat, and slow ever since. I read that the FBI Hostage Rescue and SWAT teams are still issued 10mm, and that some police agencies use it too. I guess recoil was the biggest knock on 10mm as a "one size fits all" round for LE, but I've never had a problem with 45ACP and don't think 10mm would be an issue for me.
What say you on this?
I've been a 45ACP guy at heart, though I toyed with 40S&W at one point, but I eventually "ran home to mama" and have been dedicated to big, fat, and slow ever since. I read that the FBI Hostage Rescue and SWAT teams are still issued 10mm, and that some police agencies use it too. I guess recoil was the biggest knock on 10mm as a "one size fits all" round for LE, but I've never had a problem with 45ACP and don't think 10mm would be an issue for me.
What say you on this?
Big Shrek
Member
Master Chief, I and I'm sure others here who've never shot 10mm would be interested to know how you developed this interest in the cartridge. Frankly, I was surprised to read that you're considering switching to your converted 10mm pistol as your EDC from your 45ACP's. All of us here value your opinions about these matters, and if 10mm is your choice in a self-defense round, I for one feel the need to sit up and take notice.
I've been a 45ACP guy at heart, though I toyed with 40S&W at one point, but I eventually "ran home to mama" and have been dedicated to big, fat, and slow ever since. I read that the FBI Hostage Rescue and SWAT teams are still issued 10mm, and that some police agencies use it too. I guess recoil was the biggest knock on 10mm as a "one size fits all" round for LE, but I've never had a problem with 45ACP and don't think 10mm would be an issue for me.
What say you on this?
I'm going to point out a little thing that worries some folks...
HRT's using 10mm know it also does one other thing...
they can shoot thru a victim and into a terrorist pretty easily...
sometimes you have to put a non-lethal wound on a good guy,
to give a fatal wound to a bad guy...
or if the bad guy is evil enough, you'll sometimes have to
give fatal wounds to hostage AND bad guy.
Just the reality of the world since the 1972 Munich Massacre...
Turn & Bank
Member
Big Shrek
You're right I would find that worrisome and I pray I would never be faced with that dilemma. I'll leave that to the professionals and G-d Bless them!
So Bill was saying that the ejector on the 4013 and CS40 are the same yet different than the 10XX & 45XX. Well I've got a CS 40 with the short armed ejector! Go figure. So being hesitant to change a bunch of internals (I have the correct short ejector coming) I'm going to run the 4013 / 10mm slide on the CS 40 frame and see if that helps my issue with orbiting brass. I'll let you all know what happens. I also might try the 4013 slide on my 1006 frame as it of course also has the short ejector. This is not a perfect test scenario as the main spring in both pistols is not the same as the one in the 4013 and that bugger may be the problem but trying it might get me closer to solving this mystery.
Oh, I found a site called "point shooting" that has an excellent article from the FBI on wound statics / wound studies. Check it out. It is enlightening and makes me wonder about my carry rounds.
Take Care.
T&B
You're right I would find that worrisome and I pray I would never be faced with that dilemma. I'll leave that to the professionals and G-d Bless them!
So Bill was saying that the ejector on the 4013 and CS40 are the same yet different than the 10XX & 45XX. Well I've got a CS 40 with the short armed ejector! Go figure. So being hesitant to change a bunch of internals (I have the correct short ejector coming) I'm going to run the 4013 / 10mm slide on the CS 40 frame and see if that helps my issue with orbiting brass. I'll let you all know what happens. I also might try the 4013 slide on my 1006 frame as it of course also has the short ejector. This is not a perfect test scenario as the main spring in both pistols is not the same as the one in the 4013 and that bugger may be the problem but trying it might get me closer to solving this mystery.
Oh, I found a site called "point shooting" that has an excellent article from the FBI on wound statics / wound studies. Check it out. It is enlightening and makes me wonder about my carry rounds.
Take Care.
T&B
OP
Master Chief, I and I'm sure others here who've never shot 10mm would be interested to know how you developed this interest in the cartridge. Frankly, I was surprised to read that you're considering switching to your converted 10mm pistol as your EDC from your 45ACP's. All of us here value your opinions about these matters, and if 10mm is your choice in a self-defense round, I for one feel the need to sit up and take notice.
I've been a 45ACP guy at heart, though I toyed with 40S&W at one point, but I eventually "ran home to mama" and have been dedicated to big, fat, and slow ever since. I read that the FBI Hostage Rescue and SWAT teams are still issued 10mm, and that some police agencies use it too. I guess recoil was the biggest knock on 10mm as a "one size fits all" round for LE, but I've never had a problem with 45ACP and don't think 10mm would be an issue for me.
What say you on this?
Not to worry, I'm not going to be "mothballing" my 45s anytime soon... In fact...Not now, Not ever!
I've seen a lot of these baby 10's on the forum and I had a bunch of parts on hand to make one, so when the opportunity presented itself to cook up a couple of these, I jumped at the chance.
I've been a bit enamored of the 10mm Auto ever since first reading about it in Jeff Cooper's commentaries many years ago.
I weighed the completed gun against my regular carry guns merely out of curiosity. Since hurting my back I've been mostly carrying the Shorty45 because it's lighter weight is less stressful on my lower back. It was interesting to see the "1014" weighs virtually the same as my Shorty. Anyway My back is slowly healing and I was able to carry my SSV all day Saturday in relative comfort.
I do like the "1014" a lot and I can see where these conversions have a lot of appeal as a CCW. Once I have full confidence in it's reliability I may include it among the guns I carry. I'll have to play with it some more to develop that level of trust. Plus I'll need to settle on a carry load and assure reliability with that too. I'm kinda leaning towards the 165gr Golddot Underwood loading. This in no way means it will supplant any of my 45s.
Now I have no empirical evidence, this is merely what I think or my opinion if you wish...Firstly, I didn't see the recoil as an issue. Perhaps I'm insensitive to recoil but I though it no worse than than a compact 45. The main downside for me is that it is very "barky". I would not want to touch one of these off in an enclosed space, say in my house or in a vehicle. Same reason I don't use a .357 snubby for CCW, too barky. I already have some degree of permanent hearing damage and would rather not need to be scraping my eardrums off the windshied
I also think 10mm Auto gives up a lot of its capability in a short barrel and is much more suited to a fullsize pistol. I've seen it argued in many forums that the 10mm Auto in a short barrel is nearly identical ballistically to the 40S&W which I have zero interest in. So in a 3.5" or thereabouts barrel, same terminal ballistics except with more flash, blast & bark with the 10mm.
No, I'll be sticking with my 45s. Low pressure and relatively quiet big fat heavy subsonic bullets and even if the fancy high speed modern hollowpoint fails, it still leaves a half inch hole.
I do see a factory adjustable sight 1006 in my future though
Cheers
Bill
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OP
Range report #2
I got to the range about noon on Saturday. Unfortunately there was a LA CCW class occupying the short line when I arrived. Fortunately for me I brought other toys so I headed over to the long line to play with my Grendel for an hour or so until those folks had finished up.
Once I got back to the short line I set up at the 10 yard line over on the extreme right. I wanted to set up there so my brass would land in the grass and stay put and not bounce around. Last time I was shooting in the center and it was a little difficult to assess where the brass was landing when it was bouncing all over the place. I brought with me 50 rounds of the Remington green box stuff which is 180gr FMJ truncated cone bullets and 100 rounds of Winchester 175gr silvertips. I also had four springs to fiddle with; the Wilson 22# 22 coil and three ISMI 22# springs trimmed to 24, 26 & 28 coils.
Now with the correct ejector in the gun, I started out with a couple mags of the Remy loads and the Wilson spring. Ran fine but I still felt the Wilson spring was a little light. With the 28 coil ISMI spring I had a FTE fault. Between the 24 & 26 coil springs I couldn't tell any difference. The gun ran very well with either of those springs in and between them I burned up the rest of my ammo for the day, about 130 rounds.
The headshots were there before me. I'm shooting at the 100m zeroing target. Looks like I might need a taller front sight and perhaps a tad of windage adjustment here.
That target was a lot more shot up by the time I had finished.
There was a Sheriff's Deputy there too I let take it for a spin.
After sending a mag full downrange he turned 'round and with a big grin and said "Yeah, I can shoot this".
I thought the Silvertips were supposed to be hotter than the Remy stuff I had been shooting, at least that's what the reviews at Midway alluded to but I didn't notice any difference. Overall the gun was very well behaved with either the 24 or 26 coil spring installed. Recoil was certainly manageable and I had no problems recovering my sight picture quickly.
Ejection seemed hmmm, I guess tamer would be a good word.
I have the 10xx/45xx ejector in the gun now and it seems to me the brass arced higher and flew slower than it did before. I didn't really see a difference in how far though. Ejection did seem more consistent though.
Here I'm crouching about 3 paces from the corner of the slab. I was shooting right there left of my range bag the. This is where I found the bulk of my brass. If I had parked say a wheelbarrow here, probably three fourths of my casings would have landed in the tub. So no real change in how far just seemed to toss the brass higher & slower. Like T&B said in an earlier post... must be some weird dynamics going on here
Well, I think this is about a wrap. I don't see anything else that needs doing aside from tweaking the sights a bit. Just for the helluvit I'm going to try making a plunger to fit the 25# flatwire mainspring I have here and I'll see about trying that out. The recoil spring is right for the current setup. With the factory 20# mainspring installed it seems 24 or 26 coils of 22# ISMI is the sweetspot.
Cheers
Bill
I got to the range about noon on Saturday. Unfortunately there was a LA CCW class occupying the short line when I arrived. Fortunately for me I brought other toys
so I headed over to the long line to play with my Grendel for an hour or so until those folks had finished up.Once I got back to the short line I set up at the 10 yard line over on the extreme right. I wanted to set up there so my brass would land in the grass and stay put and not bounce around. Last time I was shooting in the center and it was a little difficult to assess where the brass was landing when it was bouncing all over the place. I brought with me 50 rounds of the Remington green box stuff which is 180gr FMJ truncated cone bullets and 100 rounds of Winchester 175gr silvertips. I also had four springs to fiddle with; the Wilson 22# 22 coil and three ISMI 22# springs trimmed to 24, 26 & 28 coils.
Now with the correct ejector in the gun, I started out with a couple mags of the Remy loads and the Wilson spring. Ran fine but I still felt the Wilson spring was a little light. With the 28 coil ISMI spring I had a FTE fault. Between the 24 & 26 coil springs I couldn't tell any difference. The gun ran very well with either of those springs in and between them I burned up the rest of my ammo for the day, about 130 rounds.
The headshots were there before me. I'm shooting at the 100m zeroing target. Looks like I might need a taller front sight and perhaps a tad of windage adjustment here.
That target was a lot more shot up by the time I had finished.
There was a Sheriff's Deputy there too I let take it for a spin.
After sending a mag full downrange he turned 'round and with a big grin and said "Yeah, I can shoot this".
I thought the Silvertips were supposed to be hotter than the Remy stuff I had been shooting, at least that's what the reviews at Midway alluded to but I didn't notice any difference. Overall the gun was very well behaved with either the 24 or 26 coil spring installed. Recoil was certainly manageable and I had no problems recovering my sight picture quickly.
Ejection seemed hmmm, I guess tamer would be a good word.
I have the 10xx/45xx ejector in the gun now and it seems to me the brass arced higher and flew slower than it did before. I didn't really see a difference in how far though. Ejection did seem more consistent though.
Here I'm crouching about 3 paces from the corner of the slab. I was shooting right there left of my range bag the. This is where I found the bulk of my brass. If I had parked say a wheelbarrow here, probably three fourths of my casings would have landed in the tub. So no real change in how far just seemed to toss the brass higher & slower. Like T&B said in an earlier post... must be some weird dynamics going on here
Well, I think this is about a wrap. I don't see anything else that needs doing aside from tweaking the sights a bit. Just for the helluvit I'm going to try making a plunger to fit the 25# flatwire mainspring I have here and I'll see about trying that out. The recoil spring is right for the current setup. With the factory 20# mainspring installed it seems 24 or 26 coils of 22# ISMI is the sweetspot.
Cheers
Bill
vigil617
US Veteran
Not to worry, I'm not going to be "mothballing" my 45s anytime soon... In fact...Not now, Not ever!
I've seen a lot of these baby 10's on the forum and I had a bunch of parts on hand to make one, so when the opportunity presented itself to cook up a couple of these, I jumped at the chance.
I've been a bit enamored of the 10mm Auto ever since first reading about it in Jeff Cooper's commentaries many years ago.
I weighed the completed gun against my regular carry guns merely out of curiosity. Since hurting my back I've been mostly carrying the Shorty45 because it's lighter weight is less stressful on my lower back. It was interesting to see the "1014" weighs virtually the same as my Shorty. Anyway My back is slowly healing and I was able to carry my SSV all day Saturday in relative comfort.
I do like the "1014" a lot and I can see where these conversions have a lot of appeal as a CCW. Once I have full confidence in it's reliability I may include it among the guns I carry. I'll have to play with it some more to develop that level of trust. Plus I'll need to settle on a carry load and assure reliability with that too. I'm kinda leaning towards the 165gr Golddot Underwood loading. This in no way means it will supplant any of my 45s.
Now I have no empirical evidence, this is merely what I think or my opinion if you wish...Firstly, I didn't see the recoil as an issue. Perhaps I'm insensitive to recoil but I though it no worse than than a compact 45. The main downside for me is that it is very "barky". I would not want to touch one of these off in an enclosed space, say in my house or in a vehicle. Same reason I don't use a .357 snubby for CCW, too barky. I already have some degree of permanent hearing damage and would rather not need to be scraping my eardrums off the windshied
I also think 10mm Auto gives up a lot of its capability in a short barrel and is much more suited to a fullsize pistol. I've seen it argued in many forums that the 10mm Auto in a short barrel is nearly identical ballistically to the 40S&W which I have zero interest in. So in a 3.5" or thereabouts barrel, same terminal ballistics except with more flash, blast & bark with the 10mm.
No, I'll be sticking with my 45s. Low pressure and relatively quiet big fat heavy subsonic bullets and even if the fancy high speed modern hollowpoint fails, it still leaves a half inch hole.
I do see a factory adjustable sight 1006 in my future though
Cheers
Bill
Thanks for the comments, Bill. Very sensible and reasonable observations, and they help convince me to stick with what I have. As a civilian, I'm more than prepared with 45ACP, and since a compact is what I want to carry around, 230 grain HP ammo fits the bill perfectly. Thanks again for a great thread!
6actual
US Veteran
1013/4013 chronograph
Got a chance to run down to my range and do a little chrono test today as this thread had got me curious. So using the stock 4013 upper loaded with .40 caliber Winchester 155 grain Silvertips, 10 rounds fired, they had a average muzzle velocity of 1011.60 fps
Now, 2 minute presto-chango to using the 10mm upper with #22 recoil spring and updated ejector:
10mm 165gr Gold dots avg 1236.50 fps these were my loads, very close to Underwood 10mm spec.
10mm SiG 180gr FMJ avg 1195.75 fps pretty close to advertised velocity in a short barrel, very consistent best (hottest) factory loads I have found to date at a pretty decent non boutique price
Very managable, pushes like a .45acp +P, no issues with brass or primers however though the poor guys in the stall next to me I think got nosebleeds from the muzzle blast they wuz sure giving me that look, kinda like I was shootin a Mosin M44 inddoors, so I guess I wuz "that guy" today big sigh, I did let them shoot it some they liked it, so no permanent enemies made. It would be nice to take it out on a night shoot to see how bad muzzle flash is.
Only shot about 50 rounds of each for the 10mm. No issues it throws brass about 6 feet to my 4 o'clock I found all of what was shot. Now that in itself was pretty amazing as I always lose a few pieces. After I got home, I disassembled & cleaned to see how it looked over all. Doesn't seem to have any issues with the Wilson #22 Spring. Not a really an extensive test but I plan on shooting the 1014 a whole lot more, didn't get too much of an idea of the accuracy as I was trying to see where the brass was going and also trying not to shoot my chronograph on a breezy day. I did get to shoot a few for accuracy and was pleased with the potential from the few mags I shot.
6Actual out
Got a chance to run down to my range and do a little chrono test today as this thread had got me curious. So using the stock 4013 upper loaded with .40 caliber Winchester 155 grain Silvertips, 10 rounds fired, they had a average muzzle velocity of 1011.60 fps
Now, 2 minute presto-chango to using the 10mm upper with #22 recoil spring and updated ejector:
10mm 165gr Gold dots avg 1236.50 fps these were my loads, very close to Underwood 10mm spec.
10mm SiG 180gr FMJ avg 1195.75 fps pretty close to advertised velocity in a short barrel, very consistent best (hottest) factory loads I have found to date at a pretty decent non boutique price
Very managable, pushes like a .45acp +P, no issues with brass or primers however though the poor guys in the stall next to me I think got nosebleeds from the muzzle blast
they wuz sure giving me that look, kinda like I was shootin a Mosin M44 inddoors, so I guess I wuz "that guy" today big sigh, I did let them shoot it some they liked it, so no permanent enemies made. It would be nice to take it out on a night shoot to see how bad muzzle flash is.Only shot about 50 rounds of each for the 10mm. No issues it throws brass about 6 feet to my 4 o'clock I found all of what was shot. Now that in itself was pretty amazing as I always lose a few pieces. After I got home, I disassembled & cleaned to see how it looked over all. Doesn't seem to have any issues with the Wilson #22 Spring. Not a really an extensive test but I plan on shooting the 1014 a whole lot more, didn't get too much of an idea of the accuracy as I was trying to see where the brass was going and also trying not to shoot my chronograph on a breezy day. I did get to shoot a few for accuracy and was pleased with the potential from the few mags I shot.
6Actual out
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03Fatboy
Member
I'm curious, how's that Caswell treatment/ coating holding up since putting some rounds thru it?
OP
DA trigger was a little gritty so I swapped out the hammer. I was going to stone the original hammer but that one is lopsided and it was bugging me so it's out. Here it is next to a later MIM hammer and you can see how cockeyed it is
Things like that make my brain itch
Found another blued wrought hammer in the bin and stoned the radius smooth above the hooks. Really slicked up the DA pull.
I've been carrying the "1014" around the property the past couple days. It carries very well and I must thank 6actual for turning me on to the small flat magazine baseplates. Those really complete the package IMO. Weighs in at 33.6oz loaded with 9 x 165gr Speer Gold Dots from Underwood.
Well, not so great. The black on the decocker and ambi levers is almost completely worn off.
My little bushing and the guiderod seem to be holding up better but not by much. The bushing is still black and guiderod is now a medium grey color.
In all fairness to Caswell I must point out that I didn't follow the directions 100%. Also different alloys of stainless are to be treated differently ie. different concentrations of the solution and different times spent in the solution bath. I only know for certain the alloy the guiderod & bushing are made from being 416 stainless. I do not know what steel the levers are made from but treated all the parts at the same time in the same manner. So it's very likely the iffy results are solely my fault.
I may pull & clean these parts and try again. I'm also entertaining a roll of the dice to see if that spring wound on the decocker will survive a dip in the meloniting bath.
But not right now. I have some Karl Nill grips that need messing with.
Cheers
Bill
Things like that make my brain itch
Found another blued wrought hammer in the bin and stoned the radius smooth above the hooks. Really slicked up the DA pull.
I've been carrying the "1014" around the property the past couple days. It carries very well and I must thank 6actual for turning me on to the small flat magazine baseplates. Those really complete the package IMO. Weighs in at 33.6oz loaded with 9 x 165gr Speer Gold Dots from Underwood.
Well, not so great. The black on the decocker and ambi levers is almost completely worn off.
My little bushing and the guiderod seem to be holding up better but not by much. The bushing is still black and guiderod is now a medium grey color.
In all fairness to Caswell I must point out that I didn't follow the directions 100%. Also different alloys of stainless are to be treated differently ie. different concentrations of the solution and different times spent in the solution bath. I only know for certain the alloy the guiderod & bushing are made from being 416 stainless. I do not know what steel the levers are made from but treated all the parts at the same time in the same manner. So it's very likely the iffy results are solely my fault.
I may pull & clean these parts and try again. I'm also entertaining a roll of the dice to see if that spring wound on the decocker will survive a dip in the meloniting bath.
But not right now. I have some Karl Nill grips that need messing with.
Cheers
Bill
OP
Going for the "Pinto" look
Pulled the levers today a did a little file work to soften all the edges then a quick trip to the blast cabinet. Also swapped out the slide stop for one in stainless with a full width pad. I'm going with the "Pinto" look for a while. You know, it's kinda growin' on me
I also drifted the front sight a smidge to correct the windage but havent the opportunity to check it yet and it's monsooning tomorrow so no range day I might need to put a taller front in to correct elevation but I'm gonna hold off on that until I get to try it out at longer distance. Right now I have a .216 front mounted, next taller would be .229 I think.
Cheers
Bill
Pulled the levers today a did a little file work to soften all the edges then a quick trip to the blast cabinet. Also swapped out the slide stop for one in stainless with a full width pad. I'm going with the "Pinto" look for a while. You know, it's kinda growin' on me
I also drifted the front sight a smidge to correct the windage but havent the opportunity to check it yet and it's monsooning tomorrow so no range day
I might need to put a taller front in to correct elevation but I'm gonna hold off on that until I get to try it out at longer distance. Right now I have a .216 front mounted, next taller would be .229 I think.Cheers
Bill
Turn & Bank
Member
BMCM and those following this great thread!
I'm back with a range report. As you might remember I'm the guy with the 4013 conversion to a 1013 as Bill has done here. I have shell casings landing 10 to 12 ft. from me and thought that excessive so I've tried to shorten that distance by going with the 22# 26 coil flat wire recoil spring, shorter ejector, and a new mainspring as Bill thought it might be a 17# spring. Sorry guys but it made the problem worse! Shells are now landing 25 ft. around 3 or 4 o'clock.
So as suggested by BLUEDOT37 my next step is to try the 30 coil 22# spring, as long as it doesn't bind. I'm not hopeful and will probably go back to the 23# wire spring in the nested setup. Oh, I was using the older Remington green and white box 180's as ammo. With the setup that Bill is using I'm starting to see just a slight hammering on the frame so that is right out. On the next round I'm going to Dykem the slide and frame to see which is the worst for hammering. I hope all of you are fairing better than myself. Also considered density altitude / barometric pressure but that difference is slight and could not account for double the distance the shells are traveling! Ah what the heck it's fun monkeying with this, and the emphasis should be on "Monkeying"! Yeehaw!
Take Care,
T & B
I'm back with a range report. As you might remember I'm the guy with the 4013 conversion to a 1013 as Bill has done here. I have shell casings landing 10 to 12 ft. from me and thought that excessive so I've tried to shorten that distance by going with the 22# 26 coil flat wire recoil spring, shorter ejector, and a new mainspring as Bill thought it might be a 17# spring. Sorry guys but it made the problem worse! Shells are now landing 25 ft. around 3 or 4 o'clock.
So as suggested by BLUEDOT37 my next step is to try the 30 coil 22# spring, as long as it doesn't bind. I'm not hopeful and will probably go back to the 23# wire spring in the nested setup. Oh, I was using the older Remington green and white box 180's as ammo. With the setup that Bill is using I'm starting to see just a slight hammering on the frame so that is right out. On the next round I'm going to Dykem the slide and frame to see which is the worst for hammering. I hope all of you are fairing better than myself. Also considered density altitude / barometric pressure but that difference is slight and could not account for double the distance the shells are traveling! Ah what the heck it's fun monkeying with this, and the emphasis should be on "Monkeying"! Yeehaw!
Take Care,
T & B
