Converting a beat up 10 to a 2"

Jessie

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Is it worth the trouble and advisable to find a model 10 that's ok, but rough and change the 4" to 2"?
I like the 10 snubby.
It would need the barrel
Of course, and the short extractor rod. Anything else necessary?
Should it be the whole crane, cylinder and extractor rod assembly or just the rod?
Forgive my ignorance about this. It's obviously a first time thing with me.
 
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I have thought about this too, sir - and wound up just getting a 2-incher. There's a pretty decent one in the classifieds as I type - he wants $425 for it. I'm tempted by it but we also need a new A/C. I don't think you want to mess with replacing the yoke/crane - too much potential to have to be fitted - way, way beyond my capability. You would also have to watch out for version differences - I have a 10-5 and a 10-7 - and the cylinders are not interchangeable. That said, I called the mothership today and ordered a 10-5 cylinder - I think cylinder assembly. They wanted $134 for it shipped - pricey, but beats sending one of my 10's back to be refinished. The frame looks pretty good on it - minus one pretty good sized nick. But, the cylinder looks like it was rolled down a sandy sidewalk ... :(

Edited to add: well, maybe the 10-5 and 10-7 cylinders are interchangeable - but the yokes sure aren't.
 
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That price probably is on par with what you'd have in a conversion when you finally finished.
I've noted that the 2" models are commanding a premium.
 
All you will have to change is the ejector rod, the barrel, and the centerpin (or shorten the one you have) that goes down the center of the ejector rod. There is no need to touch the yoke or the cylinder itself.
 
I had a gunsmith convert a four to a 3 inch round butt
works out very well and has become one of my favorite carry guns JOHN
 
If you want a 2 incher, that 10-5 listed in the classifieds is worth the money these days, and I'll bet it looks pretty good in the bargain. If it is any where as smooth as my model 10-5, it will be well worth every penny. If I didn't already have a couple of 2 inchers, I'd be after it! Much less trouble and doubt if you will have any less in what you propose unless you know someone you trust who will work for very cheap!
 
My 10-5, 2" round butt, was won on G.B. March of 2016. It was $329 shipped. It did not come with these stocks. Not a beauty queen. It was not fired much. Functions quite well. My point being, there are still some decent deals for a real 2 incher if you look. Bob
 

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It is my personal opinion that with the price of vintage parts, quality Gunsmithing work, shipping, refinishing, etc. it's hardly worth converting guns anymore is they are readily available in the market place. The M10 2" is certainly an available candidate.

I would say to sell your 4" and just buy a 2" - and in the long run you will get what you want, save money, time and possible aggravation. The OBNLY reason I see to convert a gun is if you want something NOT available to purchase. YMMV.........
 
The 3" is much more in demand than the 2". Why not just shorten the barrel by an inch or inch and a quarter. However much you can take off without disturbing the ejector rod.

While I can't imagine doing this, with a Model 10, IF I was to do it, I would make it a 3".
 
The conversion is possible. Bought on of those reimported heavy barrel Model 10's from Bud's a while back. Here is the thing. Unless you are really good in the shop you may be in for trouble. Unscrewing the old barrel and installing the new one can be tricky without the proper jig. A sprung frame would be a disaster. The heavy barrel frame will not line up with the 2" barrel contours but I reblued the exposed frame so it is not so obvious. Buying an ejector rod and center pin from Numrich is easier than trimming and fitting the old one. The surfaces of the new barrel and the old frame are very easy to damage while the procedure is being done. Sell your old 10 and buy a 2". Just my 2 cents.....
 
I haven't heard anyone comment on the complexities of making sure the b/c gap is set correct. It may take a lathe to turn the barrel down a few thousandths to get a correct gap.
 
My gunsmith will do the conversion for $40.00 that includes shortening the ejector rod and rethreading it. He did it on a model 10 for me and now will be doing it on a Model 64 for me. The 2" barrel cost me $27.50 add $40.00 for the labor and $230 for a Model 64 4 incher. So for a $300 investment a $500.00 gun. Sorry for you guys that don't know any better how to get things done.
 
You have a gunsmith that will change your barrel, adjust BC gap as necessary, possibly have to move the shoulder on the barrel to get it to clock properly, all for $40? You either know this guy real well, or know something on him he doesn't want made public knowledge! Most gunsmiths I know won't take the side plate off a revolver for $40.
 
You have a gunsmith that will change your barrel, adjust BC gap as necessary, possibly have to move the shoulder on the barrel to get it to clock properly, all for $40? You either know this guy real well, or know something on him he doesn't want made public knowledge! Most gunsmiths I know won't take the side plate off a revolver for $40.
Just his normal rate for the above work. That job was the first time I ever saw him. Sorry you don't know any reasonable gunsmiths that can do that kind of work. You forgot to mention recut the forcing cone if needed depending on what else was done.
 
The 3" is much more in demand than the 2". Why not just shorten the barrel by an inch or inch and a quarter. However much you can take off without disturbing the ejector rod.

Something like this. Second job given to my GS. He charged me $65.00 and made the front sight which is dovetailed in.
 

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Bottom gun the Model 10 converted from 4 inch to 2 inch
 

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