Fixing up a .32-20

[OrlontheBrave]

Hello friends,

My replacement bug screw arrived!

Wait, it looks much too big. I thought they’re supposed to be flush? Not if they’re for mounting a wondersight!

A prior owner seems to have painted it orange with nail polish, but I don’t mind. The sight picture is a lot clearer, and I can’t wait to take it to the range and get it zeroed in.

 

[Retired W4]

That's one heck of a bug screw!!

 

[Jakerin]

Hello friends,


After many months of searching I finally found a .32-20 revolver that ticked all the boxes for me: heat treated cylinder, >4" barrel, and under $300 shipped. For a hair under $270 I had this beautiful specimen shipped to my door.

While the bore and chambers are pristine, as you can see, there's a reason for the price:

• External rust and pitting
• The finish has been removed from the side plate
• The bug screw is missing
• The left stock has some small chunks missing, the right stock has big chunks missing

However, I was looking for an affordable shooter/project gun, and this fits the bill. I aim to:

1. Get the stocks into serviceable condition, cheaply
2. Replace the bug screw
3. Rust blue the gun entire

I'm not very good at remembering to take pictures, but in this thread I'll do my best to record my progress.

Didja know that a 32-20 is mentioned in a Robert Johnson song?

 

[OrlontheBrave]

Didja know that a 32-20 is mentioned in a Robert Johnson song?

Sure do! I’m a big fan of the Doctor Ross version. Hard to believe it’s just him playing alone on the record.

 

[Green Frog]

Didja know that a 32-20 is mentioned in a Robert Johnson song?

More than just mentioned, the title of the song is “32-20 Blues” IIRC, and says he likes the 32-20 because the 38 just won’t get the job done for him. He came from a culture that took it as gospel that the 32-20 would “shoot clean through a man” regardless of what our current ballisticians say. I guess you could say I’m a fellow sufferer with you of “dem ole 32-20 blues!” I’ve had a couple of S&Ws in 32-20 over the years as well as a couple of SAs. The last one I’d get rid of is my Buckeye Special 32-20/32 H&R, since it not only is built like a tank, but also has adjustable sights. Win-win!
Froggie

 

[DWalt]

Johnson recorded the .32-20 Blues on November 26, 1936 in room 414 at the Gunter Hotel, here in San Antonio.

 

[Green Frog]

It's not often that our choice of revolver cartridge is enshrined in song. I guess it must be pretty special, huh? There are some things that defy (or transcend) simple logic, and this is one. Why did folks from the Appalachian Mtns to the Texas Hill Country all take such a strong interest in it? there must be something special about it!
Froggie

 

[Igiveup]

A couple weeks ago I bought a 32 w.c.f. ctg. {32-20) revolver at local gunshow. It is a 4 inch, looks reblued as hammer and trigger are shiney, not case hardened finish. Was wondering the year, sn: 71975. I think fairly early. Heavy pull both single and double action. I will most likely change some springs in it to make it a more enjoyable shooter. This revolver belonged to a friend that recently passed and another friend is selling his collection for the widow.

 

[Drm50]

I had been looking for a 1905 Target 32/20 for several years. Poor condition or crazy price held me off. Then few years back lucked into early gun that was nice and tight , refinished and milled for K38 sight. All I had to do was make a front to match rear. Got my Po-Boy 32/20 Target 6.6” barrel. 1906-07 no heat treat but hot 32/20 don’t interest me. For now faux ivory and grip adapter but looking for righteous grips.
Traded up another but it is earmarked to trade for a Win 94 in 38/55. Same period 6.5” gun.

 

[OrlontheBrave]

Bad news, friends. I took the revolver to the range today to try and dial in the wondersight. Even at its lowest setting, however, it was 8” high at 25 yards. If I’m going to use it, I’ll need to replace the front sight (like in Drm50’s post) with something taller.

 

[Drm50]

My gun had a useless from blade that was way to thin to pair with back sight. They also drilled 3 holes through old sight shank, not necessary. They use to make a front sight that fits over your front.
Can be pinned or silvered. I would look for one of these. I think Lyman, Marble & King all made them back in the day. With cost you $25 but well worth it.

 

[OrlontheBrave]

My gun had a useless from blade that was way to thin to pair with back sight. They also drilled 3 holes through old sight shank, not necessary. They use to make a front sight that fits over your front.
Can be pinned or silvered. I would look for one of these. I think Lyman, Marble & King all made them back in the day. With cost you $25 but well worth it.

I wasn’t sure whether that would be easier, or whether having a 3/8” dovetail cut into the front block would be easier. I’ve fit dovetail front sight before on rifles, but have never worked with blades.

 

[Drm50]

I thought about a low ramp with dovetail. Slotted from under to sit flush over sight shank. It was winter and only machinery I had was Mexican Mill
that’s a file. So I equally thinned sight to fit in slot cut thru sight shank.

 

[Tom K]

Bad news, friends. I took the revolver to the range today to try and dial in the wondersight. Even at its lowest setting, however, it was 8” high at 25 yards. If I’m going to use it, I’ll need to replace the front sight (like in Drm50’s post) with something taller.

I had thought that might be a problem for you. I have a Triple Lock with a cut barrel that had a too-tall front sight. Shot about 8 inches low and three inches left. I put on a WonderSight and it worked out just right for me.

Triple Lock with a Wonder Sight

 

[delta-419]

Passion For The 32-20

As most of you know I have an unending passion for the 32-20, be it a Winchester rifle or a S&W revolver. When you look into the early S&W guns you see a lot of changes over the production life when you open them up. I collect parts as well as the guns and the early guns will be a challenge as you are well aware. This nickel plated (refinish) hardens the part and presents such a challenge as an initial fitting the parts to the gun. Here is my latest project 32-20, and I'm looking to ease a hard trigger pull and hammer draw. Its my new challenge. I believe there is a solution to this issue and working on it everyday will be rewarding. Needless to say, I share your passion for these old shooters and there history. Stay the course!

 

[Retired W4]

I thought I would take this opportunity to show off my 32 WCF S&W and Savage Model 23C, also in 32-20. I have been scrounging ammo here and there, and a friend has been loading the brass I've accumulated. The Savage needed a little work to get it up to speed but the Smith only needed a normal cleaning. Both are ready to go.

 

[mm93]

I think if you took a bit more time on those grip panels they'd come out better. And then have the checkering touched up, or get a Dembart tool and learn to touch them up yourself.
I've done a lot of stock and grip repairs and it takes patience and time to get them right. Just did this repair to my Model 1891 Remington Target pistol:

A little finish blended into the original finish and the repair will be almost invisible.

 

[OrlontheBrave]

mm93, great work, I can hardly see the repair.

Retired_W4, a Savage 23 is on my list. They seem to be more affordable than comparable lever actions, plus easier to police brass from a bolt action. Plus I don’t have a PCC yet.

Tom_K, I noticed when at the lowest setting that the bottom of the u-notch was at the same height as the factory sights, but the ‘wings’ were taller. Wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the wings alone that account for the shift in POA.

Drm50, hunting on Fleabay I could find sight blades, however they were just about all for rifles (M1903s, etc). Yours are narrower on the bottom as well—did any come that way or did you do them all with the file?

Finally, an update. Cracked open the sideplate last night and I think I discovered the source of the heavy trigger pull: it’s filthy inside! Brown gunk on basically every surface. I’ll clean out the inside as best I can, then start prepping the outside for bluing.

 

[Drm50]

I had to make my sight from scratch. The piece of grey steel pictured stuck in sight shank is what I started with. It was easier to reduce equally it larger piece than to do it after shaping sight blade. You start with the thickness of stock that pairs with your back sight. Then you chase both sides, constantly checking. When you get this done then seat piece for depth in slotted shank. Last is filing out the contour of blade.
First blades were made from brass keys. Really nice to file, the steel took much longer. When done I flame blued by torching and quenching in Linseed oil.

 

[OrlontheBrave]

An update on refinishing:
I was hoping to get away with comparatively non-destructive techniques in order to maintain as much finish as possible, however after repeatedly oiling, scrubbing, sanding, and boiling in distilled water (after degreasing), I kept finding spots of active rust that would scrape up red. The worst is at the end of the barrel and under the grips, however there were also scabby spots on the frame, cylinder, and in the action itself (near the grips).

I’m going to try spot treating the pits with naval jelly to hopefully kill the active rust.