I Think I Went Over the Edge...

[bamabiker]

Do you see the serial number on the flat part of the barrel with the cylinder opened and does it match the number on the butt and back of the cylinder? Some of these guns have had parts changed over the years and some people removed the U.S Property markings.
I'm certainly no expert but this will push your post to the top so maybe one of the experts will comment.

 

[DCWilson]

It is possible that the gun was aggressively polished when reblued to remove US Property markings. Does the gun still have the US ARMY MODEL 1917 stamp on the butt? The model stamp should be on one side of the lanyard loop hole and the serial number in two lines on the other side.

There were some commercial 1917s manufactured that had no government markings and carried instead a S&W logo on the left side of the frame. But I think those came along later, and I would not expect to see a commercial 1917 with a serial number in the low five digits.

 

[Art Doc]

It's worth what you paid. Looks fine for shooting. Stocks cut down a bit?

 

[Jack Flash]

"I think I went over the edge..."

If you only think you went over the edge, you didn't.When you do, you'll know, trust me on this.

 

[GJH77]

Do you see the serial number on the flat part of the barrel with the cylinder opened and does it match the number on the butt and back of the cylinder? Some of these guns have had parts changed over the years and some people removed the U.S Property markings.

Yes, it does have the correct serial number on underside of the barrel.
Based on the condition, it does not appear that the area where the "USProperty" should be has been polished out.

It is possible that the gun was aggressively polished when reblued to remove US Property markings. Does the gun still have the US ARMY MODEL 1917 stamp on the butt? The model stamp should be on one side of the lanyard loop hole and the serial number in two lines on the other side.

There were some commercial 1917s manufactured that had no government markings and carried instead a S&W logo on the left side of the frame. But I think those came along later, and I would not expect to see a commercial 1917 with a serial number in the low five digits.

Yes the US ARMY MODEL 1917 stamp with the SN is very clear around the lanyard loop hole under the grips.

 

[GJH77]

It's worth what you paid. Looks fine for shooting. Stocks cut down a bit?

The stocks are not cut down but the angle in that photo does make them appear to be distorted now that you mention it.

Only problem on the first time at the range was that i had several light strikes and fail to fires when shooting Double action. I tried a mix of light reloads with some factory ammo, and I think it was all the reloads. All rounds fired the second time.

Since that trip last week, I did see in another thread that these 1917's may have some issues with different primers not firing. So if that persists, I will try a different brand of primer.


Now I need to get used to the tall thin front site...Thanks for all the help.

 

[Green Frog]

The stocks are not cut down but the angle in that photo does make them appear to be distorted now that you mention it.

Only problem on the first time at the range was that i had several light strikes and fail to fires when shooting Double action. I tried a mix of light reloads with some factory ammo, and I think it was all the reloads. All rounds fired the second time.

Since that trip last week, I did see in another thread that these 1917's may have some issues with different primers not firing. So if that persists, I will try a different brand of primer.


Now I need to get used to the tall thin front site...Thanks for all the help.

For those light strikes, make sure the strain screw on the bottom front of the grip frame is screwed in all the way. Some shooters will back them out to get a lighter trigger pull, but that gives a lighter hammer hit as well. Most PPC or other custom revolver shooters around here tend to favor Federal primers for their soft metal. These two considerations will probably take care of your misfires.

Are you using full moon clips? You will find that a warped clip will lift some of the rounds slightly, thereby cushioning the hammer strike and causing misfires. I don't recall hearing of this with 1/2 or 1/3 moon clips, but it is possible, I guess.

It would be obvious if the hammer had been lightened, but you might also find that the mainspring has been altered to improve trigger pull... either of those will potentially lead to misfires if carried to the extreme.

HTH ~ Froggie

 

[GJH77]

For those light strikes, make sure the strain screw on the bottom front of the grip frame is screwed in all the way. ...... tend to favor Federal primers for their soft metal.

Are you using full moon clips?

HTH ~ Froggie

Thanks for the suggestions. I was not using Federal primers, but either CCI or Winchester. I did not consider the strain screw so I will check that. I was using the full moon clips, they were new, but I will check to make sure they are flat in the cylinder.
Thanks again.

 

[Hondo44]

Very nice and a very good looking shooter price.

Yours is very early and the earliest ones had fine concentric grooves on the sides of the hammer. That feature was dropped approximately Feb. 1918 at serial number approx. 25,000.

The target stocks are post 1968 and have been shortened at least 1/4" to remove some bulk but you will find them excellent as modified for shooting if they fit your grip. Much better than the originals. If you replace the lanyard ring as I did, here's a compromise to allow the use of the target stocks. Much better than original stocks.