Ruger Nut
US Veteran
Welcome to the Sigma club!
No offense but the Bodyguard is one ugly pistol. I bet it is a great conceal weapon tho.
Newbie with a Sigma Question
- Thread starter puma guy
- Start date
Welcome to the Sigma club!
No offense but the Bodyguard is one ugly pistol. I bet it is a great conceal weapon tho.
Congtrats
Now take it and to the trigger job and your set
Sigma Trigger Fix / Mod DIY walk through for beginners EASY - YouTube
Now take it and to the trigger job and your set
Sigma Trigger Fix / Mod DIY walk through for beginners EASY - YouTube
Ruger Nut
US Veteran
Vector,you said you have 18K rounds thru your Sigma; is that with the trigger job in the YouTube video you posted?
Yes it is. I have done a number of trigger jobs on the gun.
one with just removing the pig tail spring.
One with leaving in that spring and just polishing the hell out of the metal.
One with replacing the long skinny one with a spring from a click pen. (don't do that)
One with replacing the short fat spring with another. (that works okay but it is another unnessessary spring and it costs $12)
and a few others so, WARNING!!!, DO NOT PUT A WOLFF SPRING INTO A SIGMA. The spring will be fine for a few hundred rounds and then you will bend the FP because it did not reset. To replace the FP is cheap, but it is a major PITA.
I have 250 rounds with the gun, out of the box, did not have any mech. failures. Just one HEAVY trigger pull (14 or so lbs).
Now thr trigger pull is not the 4.5 lbs like it says in the video, but close to it. MAKE SURE THE SPING GOES INTO THE LITTLE HOLE. you will know what i mean when you look at the sear assembly.
one with just removing the pig tail spring.
One with leaving in that spring and just polishing the hell out of the metal.
One with replacing the long skinny one with a spring from a click pen. (don't do that)
One with replacing the short fat spring with another. (that works okay but it is another unnessessary spring and it costs $12)
and a few others so, WARNING!!!, DO NOT PUT A WOLFF SPRING INTO A SIGMA. The spring will be fine for a few hundred rounds and then you will bend the FP because it did not reset. To replace the FP is cheap, but it is a major PITA.
I have 250 rounds with the gun, out of the box, did not have any mech. failures. Just one HEAVY trigger pull (14 or so lbs).
Now thr trigger pull is not the 4.5 lbs like it says in the video, but close to it. MAKE SURE THE SPING GOES INTO THE LITTLE HOLE. you will know what i mean when you look at the sear assembly.
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Ruger Nut
US Veteran
I had my Sigmas trigger pull checked a few weeks ago and it was under 11 lbs. All I've done to it was send it back to S&W to fix the gritty trigger and put over 2K rounds thru it.
I'm going to put at least 1K more rounds thru it before I decide to mess with the trigger. True,it's not as light of a trigger pull as my Rugers (semi-autos) but i'll wait and see if it gets better.
I'm going to put at least 1K more rounds thru it before I decide to mess with the trigger. True,it's not as light of a trigger pull as my Rugers (semi-autos) but i'll wait and see if it gets better.
Really, you sent it back so they could use some metal polish? Have you removed the Pig Tail spring at least or used some, Break Free, on the spring to loosen them up a bit?
Granted you can stay on target with the heavier trigger pull by staging the "hammer" but you cannot do it in one quick fluent motion, you have to go slow so you don’t hit low-left, if you are right handed, low right if you are left handed.
If you remove the springs keep them in a little container of sort so you can always replace them if you don't like the performance you get or in case you need to send it back to S&W for serious work, Like if your extractor breaks. This was an example that I have heard so many Glock owners say happens to a Sigma. I am sure it just BS. Nothing has ever gone wrong with mine and I have put mine through absolute Hell.
Quick question on the Ruger GP100. Is it very difficult to switch out the barrels, say from a 4" to a 8", or is it as simple as unscrew and screw back in? I am asking because I would like to use the 4", stock barrel, for just home defense and attach a nice scope and rail system with an 8" barrel, for yotes.
I would just use a rifle but the rounds are kind of pricy just to get some varmint.
Granted you can stay on target with the heavier trigger pull by staging the "hammer" but you cannot do it in one quick fluent motion, you have to go slow so you don’t hit low-left, if you are right handed, low right if you are left handed.
If you remove the springs keep them in a little container of sort so you can always replace them if you don't like the performance you get or in case you need to send it back to S&W for serious work, Like if your extractor breaks. This was an example that I have heard so many Glock owners say happens to a Sigma. I am sure it just BS. Nothing has ever gone wrong with mine and I have put mine through absolute Hell.
Quick question on the Ruger GP100. Is it very difficult to switch out the barrels, say from a 4" to a 8", or is it as simple as unscrew and screw back in? I am asking because I would like to use the 4", stock barrel, for just home defense and attach a nice scope and rail system with an 8" barrel, for yotes.
I would just use a rifle but the rounds are kind of pricy just to get some varmint.
Ruger Nut
US Veteran
Honestly,I don't know.I don't do any gunsmith work to my weapons besides field strip them and clean them.
I have a 4" GP 100.I looked at my manual for it and all it shows is that the barrel screws in/out.I am guessing you can just buy an 8" barrel and screw it in there yourself. Go to this website and ask in the revolver forum; www.RugerForum.com
finaltoy
Member
Welcome Newbie!
From SW Michigan.
From SW Michigan.
You take apart the sear assembly and take it all apart to soak in solvent when you clean the gun right? when you put it all back together just leave some parts off and stick'm in a zip-lock baggy. Its important when you clean the gun to get that sear assembly clean to. All the gun powder residue mixed with the oil will give you an inconsistant trigger pull and erode the polymer and degrade the metal. I personaly clean the gun all the way after each time I shoot, not just field strip and clean. This is also most likely one of the reasons I have never had a failure. Besides its not really smithing anyway. Its like thuroughly cleaning one of the revolvers you have bu a heck of alot easier.
