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boingboing

boingboing

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So I'm contemplating getting another 4566TSW and although I'm definitely not a BMCM Jedi master, I am pretty good with hand tools. So if I get another one, I'll do some very minor stuff but the question is this......should I leave it in it's original stainless finish or send it off and have it melonited? The billboard on the side doesn't really matter and I do kinda dig the WVSP 4566TSW's. So what do you folks think?
 
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Just some stuff to think about;

I'm uncertain how the billboard will appear after meloniting. The billboard is essentially done by cnc laser welding and I'm quite certain the markings come out much harder than the surrounding steel. I base this on slides that I've completely wiped such that the markings are gone that when bead blasted the billboard re-appears. So, I really don't know how the laser marks will look post melonite. Might look ok or maybe not. Perhaps the shop doing the process might know.

If you want the frame done too and the gun has a scabbed on rail, it will have to come off. Those rails are aluminum and won't fare well in a bath of 1100°F molten cyanide salts. So you can either have the rail riveted back on post process or, have the shop weld up the holes pre-processing.

And my recommendations;

Only send those parts that you want melonited. Completely strip the frame and I mean pull off everything, Magazine latch and even the sear spring. Same drill on the slide. Pull the sights, extractor and everything else. Take the plunger out of the slide stop too There are certain parts you just don't want going in a molten salt bath, springs for one. The process does cause a small amount of surface growth too such that very close fitted parts like sights and retaining pins can be fused in place. That's why I recommend complete detail stripping. Plus if you do the stripping & prep work you should wind up saving a few bucks on the bill since the shop "go-fer" doesn't have to. At least that's been my experience.

Include a letter with detailed instructions on exactly what you want done. Even if you've talked with the shop on the phone include a letter anyway. Keep in mind you're not the only guy the shop is dealing with. And, on that letter list individually each single part you send.

Like so:

"Included are the following components for Isonite QPQ treatment.

1. S&W 4566TSW frame serial nr: TTTxxxxx (stripped)
2. slide (stripped)
3. barrel
4. M/S safety
5. Ambi lever
6. Extractor
7. Slide stop (stripped)"

Cheers
Bill
 
BMCM said:
Just some stuff to think about;

I'm uncertain how the billboard will appear after meloniting. The billboard is essentially done by cnc laser welding and I'm quite certain the markings come out much harder than the surrounding steel. I base this on slides that I've completely wiped such that the markings are gone that when bead blasted the billboard re-appears. So, I really don't know how the laser marks will look post melonite. Might look ok or maybe not. Perhaps the shop doing the process might know.

If you want the frame done too and the gun has a scabbed on rail, it will have to come off. Those rails are aluminum and won't fare well in a bath of 1100°F molten cyanide salts. So you can either have the rail riveted back on post process or, have the shop weld up the holes pre-processing.

And my recommendations;

Only send those parts that you want melonited. Completely strip the frame and I mean pull off everything, Magazine latch and even the sear spring. Same drill on the slide. Pull the sights, extractor and everything else. Take the plunger out of the slide stop too There are certain parts you just don't want going in a molten salt bath, springs for one. The process does cause a small amount of surface growth too such that very close fitted parts like sights and retaining pins can be fused in place. That's why I recommend complete detail stripping. Plus if you do the stripping & prep work you should wind up saving a few bucks on the bill since the shop "go-fer" doesn't have to. At least that's been my experience.

Include a letter with detailed instructions on exactly what you want done. Even if you've talked with the shop on the phone include a letter anyway. Keep in mind you're not the only guy the shop is dealing with. And, on that letter list individually each single part you send.

Like so:

"Included are the following components for Isonite QPQ treatment.

1. S&W 4566TSW frame serial nr: TTTxxxxx (stripped)
2. slide (stripped)
3. barrel
4. M/S safety
5. Ambi lever
6. Extractor
7. Slide stop (stripped)"

Cheers
Bill
Click to expand...

Thanks Boats, that was my plan, completely stripping the frame and slide and just sending those two, the extractor trigger, hammer, safety and slide stop assuming that MIM parts can handle the temps. I know you had a bunch or your parts done on one of your projects, did you send in all the steel parts and were you satisfied with the work done? I wasn't aware of the possibility of the billboard coming back. I wonder how it would look if it did, maybe pretty cool. I plan on sending it to Coal Creek Armory since I've heard that they're really good. Thanks for the info.
 
boingboing said:
Thanks Boats, that was my plan, completely stripping the frame and slide and just sending those two, the extractor trigger, hammer, safety and slide stop assuming that MIM parts can handle the temps. I know you had a bunch or your parts done on one of your projects, did you send in all the steel parts and were you satisfied with the work done? I wasn't aware of the possibility of the billboard coming back. I wonder how it would look if it did, maybe pretty cool. I plan on sending it to Coal Creek Armory since I've heard that they're really good. Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Yup, Coal Creek did all my stuff. I did all the prep and sent only the stripped parts. All the bits listed in my example above are what I sent.

Regarding the billboard, I've had it become visible again with glass bead blasting. That might not be so if blasted with a cutting abrasive like aluminum oxide. I wonder also what it might look like after meloniting , perhaps a subdued shadowy billboard might look nice. If you plan on wiping the slide just be aware the logo might become visible again after treatment. I think if the billboard is in good shape now and you leave it alone it ought to come out all subdued black and visible if turned to the light at the right angle. Best to check with the shop and see if they have any experience with laser etched marking being melonited.

I have no idea how MIM parts will react to meloniting. You'll need to ask the shop about that too. Honestly, unless I was absolutely certain the process is safe for the MIM parts I wouldn't risk it. If it's for cosmetic reasons, I'd just get some new replacement parts. MIM parts are already black anyway. A quick sniffin' about of the internet seems to indicate it's a bad idea.

Coal Creek did a fine job on my stuff and I've heard only good stuff about them from other folks. The only issue I had personally was their shop "go-fer" lost my extractor. That lad got canned and they made good, sourcing and fitting a new extractor before returning my parts.

Cheers
Bill
 
BMCM said:
Yup, Coal Creek did all my stuff. I did all the prep and sent only the stripped parts. All the bits listed in my example above are what I sent.

Regarding the billboard, I've had it become visible again with glass bead blasting. That might not be so if blasted with a cutting abrasive like aluminum oxide. I wonder also what it might look like after meloniting , perhaps a subdued shadowy billboard might look nice. If you plan on wiping the slide just be aware the logo might become visible again after treatment. I think if the billboard is in good shape now and you leave it alone it ought to come out all subdued black and visible if turned to the light at the right angle. Best to check with the shop and see if they have any experience with laser etched marking being melonited.

I have no idea how MIM parts will react to meloniting. You'll need to ask the shop about that too. Honestly, unless I was absolutely certain the process is safe for the MIM parts I wouldn't risk it. If it's for cosmetic reasons, I'd just get some new replacement parts. MIM parts are already black anyway. A quick sniffin' about of the internet seems to indicate it's a bad idea.

Coal Creek did a fine job on my stuff and I've heard only good stuff about them from other folks. The only issue I had personally was their shop "go-fer" lost my extractor. That lad got canned and they made good, sourcing and fitting a new extractor before returning my parts.

Cheers
Bill
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing about the billboard, kinda like a stealth police car. I'll definitely ask about that and the MIM parts. I remember your extractor incident, yours was nicely rounded and a stock one was sent back. Nice to hear that the shop made it right. So I guess I'll get another TSW and see what happens.
 
Thanks, Bill! I was getting worried because after 3 hours of searching I didn't find anyone else who did meloniting.
 
A Melonite 4566TSW would be one sweet carry 45. Especially a rail free example!

Please let us know how it turns out! Regards 18DAI
 
Well I went and got one off of GB. Looks kinda worn but that's what I was looking for. I'll have it in a week or so and I'll take a bunch of before and after pics. Sorry 18DAI, the rail will go back on since I prefer to have a light on the gun. So we shall see.......
 
boingboing said:
Sorry 18DAI, the rail will go back on since I prefer to have a light on the gun. So we shall see.......
Click to expand...

Well if you're dead set on having a rail on there, here's the one I'd use:
IMG_1319.jpg


True picatinny interface so you wouldn't be stuck with only the one Streamlight model that has an adapter to fit the S&W rail. The whole of gadgetry that can go on a p-rail is now your's for the messin' with

would only need a bit of hand fitting where it meets the trigger guard.
IMG_1320.jpg


Contour fits the S&W dust cover perfectly.
IMG_1323.jpg


I was toying with this idea a couple years ago for the frame that eventually became my SSV when I was exploring options on what to do with the holes in the dust cover. I decided I like the holes best erased rather than covered with a rail.

As I recall, two of the bolt holes will line up with the Smith. A little fitting and either you or have a pro bolt & weld it in place then the whole works can go in the salt bath.

I think what I'd do is set the bolt's in place ( have to drill the middle hole) tack weld the bolts on the inside of the dust cover. Then weld a very fine bead around the outside perimeter of the rail just to seal it up and keep moisture/junk from creeping under there and causing a weeping rust stain issue.

Cheers
Bill
 
BMCM said:
Well if you're dead set on having a rail on there, here's the one I'd use:
IMG_1319.jpg


True picatinny interface so you wouldn't be stuck with only the one Streamlight model that has an adapter to fit the S&W rail. The whole of gadgetry that can go on a p-rail is now your's for the messin' with

would only need a bit of hand fitting where it meets the trigger guard.
IMG_1320.jpg


Contour fits the S&W dust cover perfectly.
IMG_1323.jpg


I was toying with this idea a couple years ago for the frame that eventually became my SSV when I was exploring options on what to do with the holes in the dust cover. I decided I like the holes best erased rather than covered with a rail.

As I recall, two of the bolt holes will line up with the Smith. A little fitting and either you or have a pro bolt & weld it in place then the whole works can go in the salt bath.

I think what I'd do is set the bolt's in place ( have to drill the middle hole) tack weld the bolts on the inside of the dust cover. Then weld a very fine bead around the outside perimeter of the rail just to seal it up and keep moisture/junk from creeping under there and causing a weeping rust stain issue.

Cheers
Bill
Click to expand...

Now that's a helluva an idea. I like the Novak rails, have em on two of my 1911's. Problem is I don't have a welder. I will, however, ponder the idea between now and when I ship it off. Thanks for puttin an idea in my head, Boats. Things that make me go hmmm
 
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