Photograph 329 Lock Failure

[David Kachel]

The gun pictured is a brand new Model 329 PD picked up from the transfer agent about three days ago. It remains UNFIRED.

I was dry firing it. What you see happened while dry firing. I can reproduce the effect at will. Call it 'hating on S&W' if you like. Except for one Ruger Redhawk, I won't own anything BUT S&W. But this "safety" failure is real and must not be ignored any longer.

 

[saemetric]

Try and post a video of it happening

 

[smithman]

Need video.

 

[UncleEd]

So tell us how the failure can be
reproduced "at will."

Obviously something needs clarifying.

 

[David Kachel]

Why? What difference would video make?!

 

[David Kachel]

So tell us how the failure can be
reproduced "at will."

Obviously something needs clarifying.

I cock it, pull the trigger and it fails. It must be pointed upward and several tries are necessary before it happens.
So, why is it "obvious" that something needs clarifying? In your opinion, a failure is OK under some other circumstances??!!!

S&W is responsible for this device and they need to stop forcing it on us.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Before this thread is closed.......

I'd like to say I could reproduce this "at will " also. And could supply a video.

I could just remove the lock arm spring (or bend it).

Ta - da !

 

[UncleEd]

The very same failure is described
in The Smith & Wesson Forum. com
by a purchaser of a 686 Classic.

So I think it is obvious assemblers
at the factory are not getting the
lock put together correctly, probably
as has been suggested a missing
spring or a defective spring.

Easiest answers are take the lock out
of the gun or send it back to the Mother
Ship.

And, Mr. Kachel, your response to my
asking for clarification seems a bit snippy.....
tsk, tsk.

 

[GeoJelly]

Apologies for this being a lil bit off-topic; I have the same situation in my most recent 637. The previous owner took it apart to install a lighter rebound spring and lube up the internals. He did something wrong when he put it back together because the lock flag will pop up occasionally just like the OP's. So, I thought I'd search in the Access / Misc section and order a lock delete kit - but the search function doesn't return the Forum member's ad where he used to sell them. Really off-topic: does anyone have the link here on SWF for the lock delete kits or did the guy quit selling them? The glitch is irritating but the 637 is otherwise perfect mechanically and it's not like it's the only S&W I have to keep Mama safe ...

 

[BigBill]

I hammered my new s&w n frames with snap caps while breaking in the moly. Never a problem from three new ones yet. I don’t ccw my smiths there range guns. My RedHawks get ccw carried.

 

[David Kachel]

Before this thread is closed.......

I'd like to say I could reproduce this "at will " also. And could supply a video.

I could just remove the lock arm spring (or bend it).

Ta - da !

I removed nothing.

 

[David Kachel]

I hammered my new s&w n frames with snap caps while breaking in the moly. Never a problem from three new ones yet. I don’t ccw my smiths there range guns. My RedHawks get ccw carried.

How is this in any way relevant?!!

 

[g-dad]

I removed nothing.

As it is a new gun it sounds like a warranty problem. It can happen to most anything mechanical or electrical. I represented Mercedes and BMW for 30 plus years. Sometimes they would come off the truck with a failure.

Call S&W. They're real good at fixing things!

 

[muddocktor]

David Kachel, sounds like it's time for you to call S&W and get them to fix the problem. They will send you a shipping label by email and you can ship it back to them to get it fixed. Sucks that it happened to a brand new gun, but they will fix it for free.

 

[JH1951]

What muddocktor said exactly. Don't mess with it - let S&W repair it.
It will only cost you some time.

 

[bigggbbruce]

I could just remove the lock arm spring (or bend it).

Ta - da !

A 329... I would have been in there as soon as I got home and that lock would be in a bag in my parts drawer. Making this all a non issue.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

A 329... I would have been in there as soon as I got home and that lock would be in a bag in my parts drawer. Making this all a non issue.

I have removed just the "flag" on my 625 and I didnt like it. The hammer scrapes the inside part of the frame. Something I'm positive happens on every lock delete. And nobody mentions. Yes. It can be shimmed. How many people with lock delete's, have shimmed also.
I did it , because I ordered a non-lock hammer(-5 629) and it didn't have the cutaway for the lock arm. Pic below shows the "slot machine" hole left next to the hammer.

So for that reason, I would not recommend deleting the lock arm , on a lock delete. Or trying to disable one. (Unless the hammer was clearanced properly. I shaved my hammer a bit ).

 

[Mehutch]

I never trusted the lock. I have installed the 'Plug' and feel it was the best move. It only take one time to lock-up and you lose all trust in that gun. The 'Plug' is one answer for the possible problem.

 

[cmj8591]

S&W is responsible for this device and they need to stop forcing it on us.

What does this mean? Did someone point the gun at your head and make you buy it? If you don't like how Smith does guns, buy a Ruger or a Colt or something else. Otherwise, I would figure out how to fix it, send it back for repair or sell it. Your posts are not clear about what you are looking for. Are you looking for advise from the forum about what to do about your problem or are you here to whine about the lock?