Rusting 442s?

As another astute poster noted above, that's a question with too many answers. The SKU for this model is 11516. I've not seen any mention anywhere about the composition of the bbl. Perhaps I've missed something. Remember folks carried blue steel firearms for years before the onset of stainless. Some care is required if rust is an issue. Here in the desert, there are no dish towels and rust is a memory.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
You correct. After searching everywhere I can’t find nothing on the barrel make up either.
 
I had a 442 that was made in 2013 and it developed a tiny amount of rust on the cylinder last summer. It was not a big deal. I'm sure it was just cuz I didn't have enough clp on it. And just some rubbing with a rag and CLP got it off.

It was kind of neglected. But I'm with the other guy. They may say it's stainless but it might not be. Not really sure.

There is no perfect answer though because the frames on the 642/637/638 can shed and flake. So to me it's a horse apiece. The frame on the 442's is probably more durable, generally speaking. From what I can tell. It's not like I'm against the "stainless" models though. I bought a 637 while my 442 is back at the factory. I think I like the looks of the darker finish better though. Matte blued is cool. :) I think I like looking down the sights of the darker frame a tad more too. The stainless guns frame color really sort of blends in with a lot of background in low light. Where I think the darker frame contrasts a bit better with all of the surroundings.

My hopes is my next one will be a 437. But I'll be happy if I get any kind of working airweight back from them. (hammer stud broke)
 
Coincidentally, my new CT laser grips arrived today. I went to install them and was unable to - the grip screw on the current grips appears to have rusted to the nut!

So while the stainless gun itself has zero sign of corrosion, the environmental conditions of my carry (7 years EDC in heat, and bicycling often) were bad enough to rust the grip screw tight!

I used a wide jaw pliers to hold the nut tight, but still wouldn't budge. Had to let it sit an hour or so with liberal applications of oil; then hold tight with pliers to get it to unscrew. Could see rust in the threads once removed.

That's a testament on how impressive the 642 is with regard to corrosion resistance!
 
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Could definitely have been rust, but the pair of 442-1’s that I picked up last week both had thread lock on the tip of the screw. They took a bit of effort to remove.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
Could definitely have been rust, but the pair of 442-1’s that I picked up last week both had thread lock on the tip of the screw. They took a bit of effort to remove.

Best Regards,
ADP3

Not a bad thought, but these were replacement groups I bought and installed soon after buying the gun. Definitely no appearance of that factory applied "loctite" one sees on self-assembled furniture, etc.
 
So while the stainless gun itself has zero sign of corrosion, the environmental conditions of my carry (7 years EDC in heat, and bicycling often) were bad enough to rust the grip screw tight!

One of the reasons I like Spegel boot grips. The screw is either stainless steel or hard chrome, plus the screw head is on the right side, away from the body when carrying on one's right.

I also use PGS Hideout grips, and the screw appears to be blued/blackened, with the screw head on the left. When cleaning the gun I take the grips off, and apply some Break Free CLP to the grip screw's head.
 
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